KATOOM

Thank you guys... You're all very helpful. And IBMobile, do I spy a duct tape air filter box?

Where's the orifice in this line?

You guys intrigue me talking about the manipulability of the Quad..... I really dont want to spend more money and go through another learning curve, but it does sound interesting. That said, I dont believe I have an EGT issue either since I can literally hammer down on some hills with my toy hauler in tow and my EGT's will generally hover no higher than around 1200*. My eyes peeled to the pyrometer too...until the engine temps start to climb and then I back off. The idea is I've made it to the top before that happens, which is more often than not.

Thank you.

Do you happen to have a picture of what portion of the line you wrapped?

I'm going to guess that your hydraulics are not the problem here. Especially if the second set is offering the same results. Sounds like either the throwout bearing is shot and hardly there, or somethings wrong with the pressure plate assembly because there is no "spring" return in the hydraulics. The clutch pedal returning is based on the pressure plate springs. Can you peer in the slave cylinder hole and see if you can feel the fork movement or possibly anything else obvious...?

Moparman is right about the tranny. There should be no growling noises unless you're towing too low of an RPM for a particular gear. But in saying that, I never tow in 5th gear. Its simply too tall of a gear ratio unless I'm doing over 70 mph, and the heat it builds in the transmission is huge. Last summer on way to our camp trip we were forced to drive in 112* summer heat up the highway. The toy hauler weighs around 14-15k. The engine fan never shut off, engine temp hovered around 205-215 depending on the hills, and the transmission and differential were close to 200*. I have 285's and towing in 4th will generally have me cruising along at 2200-2300 RPM's. If I'm heading up a hill I'll speed up just to get a running start which will get the RPM's up to around 2500 and eventually stabilizing and holding strong around 2300...depending on the grade angle and what I'm towing. If I'm towing pretty much anything other than my toy hauler none of this applies. My biggest complaint about the 4500 is the gear split between 3rd and 4th. But thats most peoples complaints...

Given the common stories... Sounds like some of us need to be posting their "morning pic for the day" post using their dash cameras...

Akaiser21, thank you for the update. Yes, the clutch fans are more of a problem than some give credit since if you get a weak one then you're fan isnt doing its intended job. You should absolutely hear the engine fan roaring with authority when you're towing in the heat. When mine engages the fan noise can almost dominate the engine noise. My EGT's will even jump simply due to the additional load placed on the engine trying to muscle those CFM's. It clearly sounds like yours wasnt doing its job... That said, I'm very interested to hear about your IAT numbers... I just installed a Thermal Zero turbo blanket but have yet to test it out. I dont have any way to monitor IAT temps like you guys do so the only thing I'll be watching for is EGT differences while towing in the heat this summer. If things look promising then I'll be getting their manifold blanket as well just to lessen the intake heat as much as possible in the summer. Good post...

Humility... A rare characteristic found in humanity today.

I've officially learned too much.....

Oh I agree, Nevada and Arizona can get stupid hot... Although you want to talk about stupid HOT...!!! I have friends who were stationed in the Gulf and they said that 140* during the day was normal, cooling off to a balmy 100-110* at night. Somedays even reached 150*.....and thats when the equipment simply stopped working. So you ever wondered why those people over there are so angry?

I didnt think it got that hot in Florida... Every time people talk about the insane temperatures we can see in the west, the same comment always follows. "But its a dry heat".

Not sure how how it gets in Florida...but up here in the CA north valley we can see summer temps around 110* - 120*. Shade can be a commodity. I'll search an entire parking area before committing to leaving my vehicle exposed to that.....

Back years ago when we were all talking in a fuel cooler thread..... I understand Mercedes also used a fuel line which tied into the AC system to cool the fuel... Not sure if they still do or when they did, but a cool concept nonetheless. Anyways, I'm glad you guys are confirming what I learned after trying to learn more about the AC system. The only line I'll both insulating sometime in the future is that section of high pressure line exposed between the air filter and firewall.

04Mach1, your input is greatly appreciated, but I have to say I'm not completely sure I understand. Are you saying covering the acuumulator was good or bad?

Well I guess I should have done more of my own homework before throwing this question out there .....because now I understand that what I just covered up is just the accumulator NOT the dryer. And since the accumulator is on the low pressure side, there is no point in trying to protect it from heat since all I would be doing is potentially reducing the vaporization of the freon as its moving towards the compressor. No need to potentially increase the chances of slugging. My bad for being stupid. So wrapping removed...

Thanks for the perspective guys... If it helps the AC at all then great. But, my main concern at this point is if there's any harm which can come of the AC system from wrapping the dryer.

I've always pondered why the AC dryer/accumulator hanging on the firewall is so close to the exhaust. Logic tells me that this wouldn't be a great design when you're asking the condenser to cool the freon down so it can return into the evaporator...only to have it pass right next to a 800-900* exhaust along its way. Seems kinda counter productive... Anyways, I had some extra heat insulation material for protecting things from direct heat and thought, why not wrap it around the dryer/accumulator to better protect it from the hot exhaust. Is there something I'm missing? Would this be a problem I'm unaware of? Would this even help? I've heard of people wrapping their AC lines with insulation material to help cool the AC, but not the dryer. Any insight would be helpful. Thanks.

Good to know..... This must have been fairly recent because for awhile finding these fans meant combing junkyards. Good info.

Its been years since I remember where the information came from, but the OEM engine fan on the Cummins ISB is supposed to pull 10,000 CFM at 2000 rpm. Thats a lot...! And towing my 5th wheel up the mountain grades in triple digit summer heat, the fan noise and power loss would support that CFM estimate. So I guess I'm not sure what another 30% of CFM would do...if its even necessary. Might just load the engine so much that the cooling capacity gained is offset by the increase in EGT's just trying to move the fan. That said, yes, the OEM fan is no longer available but there's a thread where someone found another fan that is almost exactly the same and its bolt on. I'll have to look for the thread.

Agreed, the aftermarket clutch fans have seemingly been unreliable for members. Kinda hit and miss, whereas the OEM units you can get at places like Geno's work best.

I cant say.....but I'd be leery unless they're tripping over themselves to get you that replacement feeling like the issue is transmission related instead of clutch related. Handle this as you deem appropriate. What does the shop have to say? Are they willing to help diagnose or are they happy to charge you for another install?

I can guarantee that Standard isnt going to let this be their fault unless its absolutely the fault of their product. Which means you shipping it to them (costly) and them confirming that something was wrong which was not a result of either an incorrect installation or a faulty clutch. The same will apply to Valair... So unfortunately you're going to need to do some diagnosing before making rash decisions and thinking someone else will pick up the tab. Thats not me trying to be a jerk either but doing what I can to give you a proper heads up. I would get on the phone with both of them and be VERY specific as to what they would need to know to suggest it could be the fault of either product. It likely that Valair will want you to confirm the clutch fork throw distance and a process of determining if the pilot or throwout is dragging. I understand both companies can be helpful but since you had a third party shop install everything, things only got more convoluted because there's things the shop could have done incorrectly too. Sucks for sure but making friends with these three places is going to be helpful because you need all three to help you figure out whats going on. That is unless you have some really good buddies who have tools and knowledge and are OK with working for beer.

I'm more than happy to help you bwbrewco but if you're by Almanor then you're a couple hours away from me. Where are you picking up your new mower?