KATOOM

Just ran by this thread and found it interesting that no one talked about his tranny(s). I'm not sure why he was using his secondary tranny so often in the video other than to maybe just so that its there. Reminds me of using the ol' brownies.....

Dont know how much its affecting everyone else but diesel hasnt dropped at all in CA for quite some time. Been about $4 a gallon for a long time. Even with gasoline dipping down to around $3.30 at the cheapest a few months ago. Not sure if this is the cheapest its going to get or.....is it going to only go up from here.

You're basic home outlet timer will work just fine. No need for something industrial as the block heater is only 750 watts. Most hairdryers are twice that. Just make sure you get a time that has the ground receptacle plug.

When looking into secondary heat sources, I researched just about any and all I could find. I ended up with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57341-Olympian-Wave-6-Catalytic/dp/B000BV01CK Unlike other gas type heaters, this one works up to 12,000 which is something I liked since I camp sometimes in the higher altitude.

I'm subcribing because I too am going to be investing in some "portable" solar here soon. But in saying that, I have realized that I have a TON to learn about this stuff. Its certainly anything but straight forward and is seemingly easy to get what you "think" will do what you're wanting but only to find out that its not. After talking to some people on forums, I've come to the conclusion that 200 watt panels are what I would be happy with. With the ability to place them in the sun light while the trailer is parked in the shade. 200 watts should be able to keep my two house batteries happy so that we can get through the night comfortably without waking up to a couple drained batteries. I do have a 5500 watt gen but its really only good for running the A/C or micro or watching some TV because even running it for hours doesnt offer enough charging to do much battery replentishing. For simplicity reasons I've looked at kit's like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Instapark-PowerBox-Fold-n-Go-Solar-powered-Controller/dp/B007VWW8X2/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1393012065&sr=8-17&keywords=portable+solar+panel or http://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-GS-200-KIT-200-Watt-Off-Grid/dp/B009ANH7FO/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1393012923&sr=8-15&keywords=200+portable+solar+panel or http://www.amazon.com/200W-Mono-Starter-Kit-Controller/dp/B00BCRG22A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1393013063&sr=8-4&keywords=200+watt+solar+panel+kit

I added a Olympian Wave 6 heater to my toy hauler so I dont have to use the furnace.....or atleast as much. I've done lots of other little things too but thats the biggest lately. Some kind of solar (portable) will be my next large improvement.

I think there's something like only three different battery factories and ALL batteries are made at these sites using specific design specifications proprietary to different battery company requirements. That said, some people only want the most high dollar battery they can purchase and others are simply OK with paying much less and replacing them as needed under the prorated warranty. To each is own..... If you drive you're vehicle often then there's really no reason the battery(ies) won’t last at least 5 years. And there are threads out there about guys fitting group 31's in these trucks too. Needs a little jimmying around but they did get them in there.

15-40 Valvoline Premium Blue. Lots of trucks with hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles on them with conventional 15-40. Brand is personal preferrence.

Hey Rogan, I see that you have a complete writeup on all four tires alignment. In saying that, the printout indicates that the rears are obviously not the same but I'm not sure if those are in spec so I was wondering if the alignement shop messed with the rear alignement or did they leave it alone? And if they did, what did they actually do to change the rear specs? Thanks.

Here's a picture of an actual diaphragm. Its the one on the far left that looks like the letter C.

As much as these forums are great bases for knowledge.....they're also great ways to cause unnecessary anxiety too. In point, dont be so concerned about the shut down temps. As long as the EGT's aren't well above 300* you're fine. Following the Cummins shut down procedure is ample enough to assuring shut down temps, and yes, having a pyrometer installed is always the best way to determine EGT's.

Glad it worked for you.

I'm leaning towards the 1/8" line being the culprit too. Its very difficult to get all (if any) air out if that size line. Did you also remember to make sure the isolators diaphragm is properly positioned? You take the eraser side of a pencil and gently poke it in the gauge line side to make sure the diaphragm is pointing fully towards the fuel line side.

Thanks KY. It seems we're all visiting the same few good Cummins forums. Also, Geno's has the same kit, which they probably get from Vulcan.

THEGOLDPRO, do you happen to remember where you purchased your isolator? I have the same exact one but.....cant seem to remember myself and am curious about replacement parts. Thanks.

Just throwing this out there but I understand Pacbrake is now making an engine brake for the 6.7. Not sure if the 5.9 will ever see one, nor if there's even any room for one.

Thanks for the update.

But Mike, what harm would it cause just because the ECM is programmed for that factor? If the ECM really was recognizing what heat the grid heaters are creating then why isn't there a code for when the grids stopped working?.....but yet the ECM still thinks they are?Maybe this deserves asking around if anyone has or still has a relocated IAT. :)And you said that there's nothing else to read temperature. Does your truck not have a outside temp sensor in front of the radiator? I know that there's trucks without the overhead display but does that mean they also dont have the outside temp sensor? Just curious.

I'm not sure this is all correct.First.....I believe that the ECM uses the ambient temperature reading and not the IAT readings to determine if the grids cycle. The magic number is 60* outside temp and it doesn't matter if the engine has been running or not either because if the outside temps are 60* or below, the grids still cycle even if you've been driving all day. Ever heard of the grid heater saver? Something an old timer named Harvey created and sold about 7-10 years ago which was supposed to stop all the unnecessary cycling of the grids after the engine has been running. I'm not sure where he is and to bad he no longer sells his kit. Given how little people still customize their 2nd gen truck, those kinda items are far and few, unless you want to make them yourselves. The hard part was tracking down the correct connectors.Second.....The idea in relocating the IAT to somewhere away from the manifold was to stop soot from collecting on the IAT. Something impossible to stop when using an exhaust brake and has even been found on trucks without exhaust brakes. The wet soot eventually causes inaccurate IAT readings and if cleaning it doesn't help, the expensive little part needs to be replaced. Some have moved it to the intake horn by drilling and tapping, and some moved it all the way to the airbox to try and keep it clean. I would think that the airhorn would be the better choice of the two since you'll get more accurate intake air temps as the hot turbo air has run through the cooler. Putting it anywhere before the turbo would result in nothing but COLD air all the time. Really I remember this idea was only attempted by a few and I couldn't say what the outcome was. Yes, the IAT would not receive the same readings. And the new lower temperatures the IAT recognized would cause the engine to run richer. Essentially, you may end up with a little more fueling and a little less fuel mileage. Given how the IAT can be completely covered in black wet soot, I still think the concept is worth exploring.

And seeing manufactures requiring synthetic is more common because of the weight and power vehicles are capable of these days.

Very impressive looking setup. It warms my heart to see companies put out such quality products at reasonable prices. Lets just hope that they dont start mass-producing them or sell off to an outsourced company and go cheap. One question though..... Can you adjust FP or just go with whatever it puts out?

That brand differential lube doesn't have enough friction modifier in it. Even the Valvoline full synthetic doesn't have enough friction modifier. Using Valvoline in a limited slip differential will cause the clutches to grab and become more aggressive as the differential gets hotter. You need to install some friction modifier. If you haven't put any in there then you probably need the entire bottle. The bottles are usually no bigger than a 4-5 oz. But you can start with half the bottle and see if that helps and then add more later if needed.

Mike, when does it act like this? All the time, only when the engine is cold, or only when the engine is hot? If when mostly when its hot then you could try running a garden hose over the VP for a little while to cool it off while the engine is running and then see if the problem is still there during the quick test drive after.Are you sure the batteries are fine? I know they use calcium chloride up in Idaho which is VERY corrosive to vehicle wiring so I'd make sure ALL connections are fine and all wiring is in good condition.But knowing that this code references a timing issue, I have to ask what fuel pump this person has and how long has it been on the truck? Has the fuel pressure always been good or are you working on a truck thats been subject to inadequate FP only to have this issue arise not long after the new fuel pump. And again, since we're talking about a timing issue with the VP, if the pump is capable, you could try turning up the fuel pressure to about 20-25 psi idle and see if that helps since running pressure up around those numbers can help a weak timing piston achieve better timing.

Uh.......... I heard nothing but bugs in the background. As much as I think you posting a video is awesome, u-joints wont make noise unless they're stressed or ready to fall apart. And if they were ready to fall apart then you could easily spot the culprit just by turning the driveshaft by hand and watching for movement in the u-joint themselves. So get under there and start grabbing, turning, and tugging on stuff and see if you spot anything loose. - - - Updated - - - These are both extreme examples of failed u-joints but at least its an example of what kind of movement you're looking for when twisting the driveshaft by hand. Sometimes the movement is minimal but just note that there should be NO movement from one u-joint cap to another. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkW6qd9C8hk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHEIyscDRgM

Just saw this thread and thought I'd jump in.The differential oil looked OK. Not great but OK. Differential oil STINKS and limited slip additive stinks even worse so maybe thats the smell you were smelling. And as already mentioned, noises like you mentioned should never be coming from the differential. But u-joints can definitely make a squeaking noise. They might be silent too until there's a significant amount of pressure on them. What you'll want to do is park the truck on a flat surface, leave the parking brake off, leave it in neutral, get under the truck and grab ahold of the driveshaft close to where the u-joints are. Forcefully turn the shaft and wiggle it as well. You should see ZERO play in the u-joints. But.....this doesnt always mean they're good. Sometimes a cap can get water in it or even run dry on lube and it will look just fine but the needle bearings are making noise. In the early stages or trouble the u-joints can look just fine but when they're making noise, you should be able to see it move a little.