cajflynn

Mine was held in with t20 bolts. It is in the steering column as I'm sure that was obvious when you saw the part. Remove the plastic cover from the column and then remove the switch. I hope it fixes your problem.

That is it. Those both look the same to me.

I didn't know about these pumps. I learned something today. I don't think the argument that the pressure drops when you hit the pedal holds much water. My raptor may drop from 20lbs to 18lbs but there is not a performance loss there. If you are comparing the drop against a stock pump then maybe that argument makes more sense.There is one fuse and one relay on my raptor and they are next to each other so checking them is pretty simple. I also think fuses and relays may be more available than spare belts.As for seeing more pump failures, this is a bit misleading too. How many Assassin pumps are in existence compared to raptor, fass, whatever? Maybe the Assassin pumps will stand the test of time but we won't know that until some time passes.I am interested to know how you bleed the system with these pumps. There would be no bumping of the key to let the pump run for 30 seconds right?The raptor pump I have makes a ton of noise under the truck. Sounds like the assassin maybe be a lot quieter. I also think the assassin looks a lot cooler under the hood!

You might need a new multifunction switch. 10 minute install.

If they don't work for you I want them.

The intank pump is a pain in the ___ to change. If your not keeping it long term don't bother. I also think your mechanic has no idea what he is talking about. All pumps wear out. There are very few shops with the knowledge and expertise people on this forum have. I think you should listen to what Mike and all his friends suggest. They have owned these trucks for a long time and are very well versed in what works. Since you bought a new vp44 the mechanical route is off the table. The mechanical pump replaces the vp44. People call it a P Pump.

New in 2008? That was 5 years ago. Mine don't last a year.

I have never delivered any boats there. I have only passed by on way out west.

I'm not scared of a little snow.

I missed your address in that last post.

I see it is a tri hull. What is the benefit of the third pontoon? I know nothing about these things. It sure looks nice. - - - Updated - - - I just looked at the interior picks. I love that seating. What's your address. I'm coming to steal that thing tonight.

I have always heard good things those Garretts. Sounds awesome.

Let's set the record straight. You still have the best signature ever!

I agree with your mechanic that it is probably ball joints. Are they greasable? Does your truck continue to turn after you let go of the wheel in a turn?

I just noticed your signature has a pontoon boat in it. Can we get some pics? I want one with a slide off he back. Do you like yours?

I switched from an hy 35 to a hx 35 to a super b in my 01. The super b is 1,000,000,000 times better at everything. The difference is so complete it is hard to overstate. Egt's are 200 degress lower. Power is up everywhere. One of my favorite upgrades.I always thought the sweet spot for my stock turbos was around 10 to 12 pounds of boost when towing. Any higher and I was getting 8 mpg. Any lower and I was going 55 mph.

Low stall converters also cause their share of hard part failures in my experience. I would never get a low stall converter again. You can't run them in the newer trucks anyway. - - - Updated - - - The jar from dropping into lockup is hard on your transmission. Usually people have to drill a hole in their vb to get that type of shift. Are you sure you don't have a shift kit in there? A custom VB would shift smoother (slower) if you wanted it to. The custom vb would also have higher line pressures so the clutches were gripped harder. The tc or vb have nothing to do with your gearing so speeds will stay the same at a given rpm. What does happen is there is less slip in the transmission. It has been my experience that a stock tranny with a custom vb will last 350k to 400k miles. A rebuild with a bunch of expensive parts and tight converter about 150k to 200k. A certain amount of slip keeps the tranny from killing itself in my opinion. If your towing, the low stall converter will make it hard to keep the turbo spooled during shifts. You will absolutely hate it.

I bought a bunch of trucks so I could contribute my knowledge and you won't even let me put them in my signature. Btw, I think we should base experience points on miles driven.

I sent in $55 today.

My mega cab has a 6.5 box. They all have the 6.5 short box. I am thinking about making it a long box though.

Wait, Mike was driving? I thought MoparMom was driving.

I get one free windshield a year. I get it every spring.

I guess I need to learn read better. Sorry.

All trailers can be loaded wrong. Too much rear weight isn't any better than too much tongue weight. The bumper pull hitches aren't meant to hold more than 1000 lbs of tongue weight anyway. If it was up to me I'd only have gooseneck trailers. I have B&W turnover balls in my trucks. As for which is easier to pull, I think you're a bit off. The last boat I moved was 30' long, 11'wide, 14' tall and weighed 14k lbs. The trailer weighed another 2k lbs and was 35' long. My loads are always over width. 11' to 12' wide a lot of the time. I'm also not sure why you think that longer trailers are easier to pull unless you have never made a right turn with a 40' trailer.

Even with time lapse you drive slowly. I saw some guy pass you at :47 and then I fell asleep wondering if you were ever going to make it.