dually

Off. I will see if i can find the tap it was a irwin.

3 inch tap, no problem with back studs. Just the front 2 i shaved the valve cover. Dont do what i did. I left the valve cover gasket off when i clearanced my valve cover:doh:

I ran a tap just to make sure the hole was clean. Took a shop vac with a step down hose and sucked out the hole after words. I used a rubber hose that fit IN the hole just to be clear. My head was off so i didnt have to use a extention.

I was looking for this thread.

I went to a scale mine is 8300 (dually)

I have a fluidampr the reason i needed one was on shut down it would squeak. Mine was 412.00. http://www.klmperformance.com/fluidampr/harmonic-fluid-damper-fluidampr.htm I didnt get mine here ^ just wanted to show you. So to answer your question yes they go bad. Mine did not shread my belt. Make sure everything else is ok.

No. Why ? because all these diesels need is clean fuel and oil. I dont know how much that stuff costs but the money could go to better places. There is a reason there is a million mile club. These cummins engines are the best by far.

Read up on it before hand. Some of the odd things are rubber gromits under the cowl to get 5 and 6 pushrods out,and the return line in the back of the head. I did hg a few times it takes a long time. Make sure you note how it is now for the reinstall, The bridges have a little dimple on one end. It all has to go back the same way.

How did it go ? Did the pickup tube give you trouble ?

Thats what is hurting my mind. If he started out fine what happened ?

If the starter leads the engine how can this happen?

How about the o-ring on the filter housing ?

I need one. In spring i am going to change out my flexplate.

It hung there and i put the oil pick up on the front then put just a bit more on the part my hand rubed off. The best part of all,get this, i had 4 bolts in then the wife runs out because she seen a report of severe weather on tv. (Now remember i am out side i have a cherry picker holding up the engine.) So i totally blow her off ,she has overreacted with the weather in the past. Not this time so i am putting bolts in and it starts to rain. I am thinking hey no big deal i am under the truck. It starts to rain really hard. With the way my body was positioned under the truck i was on my back. My feet to the front of the engine. So the rain started to drip off my truck. The first place it dripped was on my crotch then the ground was soaked along with my back. I rushed to get all the bolts in and down. Then i see a yellowish flash to my left it was dark out and it was a brite flash along with a big crack. then we lost power for 12 hrs because that flash was a transformer exploding.So now i am thinking i am wet ,i have a cherrypicker lightning rod sticking out of my truck. So now i am in panic mode. I start lowering the hoist at this time my wife runs out ,also in panic mode. She starts to say h,h,how can i help? Mind you we are in a downpour. I say help me get these tools in the garage. We both start frantically kicking the tools in the garage. It took a few days to find all them sockets.So thats the time i changed the oil pan. Needless to say i know listen to the wife when she says it looks like rain:lmao2:

I dont use a gasket. I droped my pan and used permatex "right stuff" It has been a few years no leaks.

Thats perfect. What can i say, you da man!!

You could have other problems. The vp is the big one. The apps could be going bad. If you need the apps get the timbo apps. I would get the vp and cam sensor then see how it is.

I am sure Mike has some kind of a link to repair the vp. If he does not this is how to replace the vp.First get some bags that you can label, all the bolts you remove. The injection lines come off in 2 groups of 3. There 4 bolts 10mm on the intake flat part them hold down the lines. You also need a 8mm to get the little bolt that is on the oil dip stick tube. The nuts on the pump and head are 19mm or 3/4.There is a big black clip on the back of the vp pump. Pull the wing end of it out about 1/2 inch, then pull the clip back to the fire wall.There is 3 13mm bolts on top in front next to # 1 injection line. That is the apps holder. Be somewhat careful when you move it out of the way because some cables come with it. DONT remove them. The cables that is.On the front of the engine is a drain tube remove it. Under it is a 10 mm nut. Now take an oil filter wrench and put it on that big black round drain hose holder turn it to the left.Look inside the hole there is a nut i cant remember the size. Now comes the important part. Get a mirror, There is a line on the washer behind the nut. That line needs to be up. 12 o clock. To get the washer line to move you need to turn the engine over. I would use the harmonic balancer bolt to turn the engine over. Have someone with a mirror look in the hole until it is up. Then get the nut off. Be careful not to drop the nut or washer in the front case of life will get bad for you. You need a puller to get the gear off. 4 13mm ? bolts to remove the pump. Pull back and do it smooth. There is a keyway you want to stay in place. You should also put a cam sensor in because it is way harder to do it with the pump on,however it can be done.The new pump will have a keyway this is the heart of the pump. It has to be perfect if you mess it up it will run bad then you get to start all over and do it again. After the pump is on with the 4, 13 mm. slide the gear back on. This job at a shop will run 4 to 5 hrs at 70 to 90 bucks /hr. You can do this if you research and take your time. If you like you can call me and i will try to help over the phone.This is from the top of my head some info may be left out:smart:

You have to pull the valve cover to change injectors so just use one of the valve cover bolts. It screws into the injector perfect.I use snapring pilers alot for my dodge, so far thats all i can think of.

This is what i have found. Stock trucks or mostly stock trucks love compression. Race trucks not so much only because of massive boost 100 psi plus they add meth/water and or nitrous. Bottle pressure of nitrous is around 1200 psi. So racers lower compression. 14 to 15:1 give or take. It will lower the stress on the rods etc. Lets say your home air compressor can only put out 16 psi. If you fill a small tire with that 16 psi it will work fine because that tire requires just 16 psi. If you try to fill a truck tire with 16 psi the lower pressure will be inadequate because that tire was designed for 80. So you lowered the compression. Will it still work ? Yes. Just not as good.When you lift the head off the block with a 20k head gasket you take away around 1. So our 16:1 is now 15:1. You may say wow thats not much at all. It is on a diesel. Or when you remove material from the piston (fly cut) because of a big camshaft.When you lift the head up 20k you also change the spray pattern. Well, you dont really "change it" so to speak, but you do change the efficency of the design originally intended.I put a 20k hg on a unmachined head. I lost low end power. It started hard in the cold weather and sounded strange when it would run until i built heat in the cylinder. It also poured out white/blue smoke. I did compensate the injector by having 20k removed off the body of the injector so it would have the same spray pattern. However when i sprayed nitrous along with the 60 lbs of boost it ran well.Thats my take on it. The facts may vary with my opinion stated above.My job blows in these lagging economic conditions so i dont spray nitrous at this time. I now have a stock gasket on mine. It runs way better compared to the 20 over hg.

Sometimes neutral helps the fluid flow better than park. I cooked a torque converter. The guy who built mine cut the old one open for me to see,he pointed out the ban that i killed. It looked about 3/4 of an inch wide and i had worn it on the sides.

If it was my head i would use the stock gasket. These diesels love compression. I bet it will run better. If you have the injector down in the hole more it will run better as well. My injectors are 20k deeper in because the injector body was shaved.(long story) Off the line is better than before. 5k off the head is nothing. In fact thats within factory spects if i remember correctly. Did you check the block to see if it is somewhat straight ? Use a razor blade to clean the block try not to get crud in the water/oil passages,if you get crud in the piston just suck it out with a shop vac.

No dont do that. Most people go by adding 120 hp or so on a stock tranny is the limit. I would take it back to the tranny guy and have him check it.

You know, not much to gain if this would be ALL anyone does.50 to 100 rpm spool gain ? Every little bit helps. If we all did 4 or 5 little freeish things to our trucks i am sure we would be happy with the combined results.

This is what i was told, 1st to 2nd is a fluid gear change. 2nd to 3rd is a fluid gear change, 3rd to od and od to lock up is a computer gear change. Is it a stock tranny ?How many miles are on the tranny ? Do you run a programmer like edge box,or any other box that makes 120 hp or more. If yes, how long was the box on the truck? When you take off from a dead stop does it feel like it kinda pulsates or shimmys as you go? You would only feel this maybe 0 to 10 feet from the dead stop.