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Sorry Im not closer, Id give you a hand

JIC really is the best way to go with any pressurized hydraulic or pneumatic connection

I grew up n Tx. I understand 😁

Weather is still not conducive to a lot of wind therapy where I’m at. Lots of time for maintenance on my FLHC and FLHTCUI . Looking fwd to a long ride in May

I was just making plans to reseal my OEM vacuum pump and replace PS pump. Glad I found this. Thanks for sharing fellas , I’ll share when in done

Can you please remind me how to edit my signature? TIA, Kevin

Congratulations

Good check up?

So,I have an 01 with nv4500. 4x4. When I bought this thing a year ago it needed tires real bad . I bought it in Couer d alane, ID with 3 may pops and a will pop lol. Looking to buy tires before I drove I it home to Wa coast I ignorantly looked for 35’s and rims and would have bought them if they would have had them in stock. Thankfully I ended up buying stock size L285/75R16 on to the stock rims. Did all of these pick ups come with the same rear end gear ratio? How can I figure my gear ratio?

Is the rear end on these trucks heavy duty enough to stand posi traction? Am I going to snap axles or anything else? Any reason I shouldn’t do this?

Yeah I got stuck in the sand the other day. I wouldn’t have if it would have been posi traction. I’ve never needed to get into a differential. Pretty straight forward install?

What are my options for upgrading rear end to posi? 2001 4wd 2500

What are the benefits of 35 spline shafts, high pinion housing and 3.73 ratio?

I just scrolled this whole thread. Amazing work. Thank you for sharing your time!

5 u joints, three shafts, unserviceable wheel bearings, differential and transfer case spinning all the time needlessly was my main concern. Increasing efficiency was secondary. That being said, I like the idea of a hotter thermostat. I run diesel engines for a living and have alway understood that they are more efficient when ran a little hotter. A little bit at a time. I have a few more upgrades planned then I’ll be looking to bump up horsepower. Turbo, injectors, tuner 😁

Can you tell me more about the permanent set up to eliminate the CAD please?

Beast came with the solid axle?

I’m pretty sure that’s what it is . Haven’t had time to look at it yet everywhere I look is a project and pickup has slid back down priority list. 😂. I haven’t done any thing with vacuum lines on axle in fact I don’t even really understand what the do as the 4wheel drive manually engages…. Posi lock? I know not Thanks

Finally got the Spyntec free spin hub kit and Autometer pillar gauges installed. I’ve always hated the idea of all that hardware turning up there all the time. I rarely need 4 wheel drive . A lot of work, glad to finally check these off the list , I’ve had the parts for longer than I care to admit. It seems I’ve dislodged something in the process though. Cruise control quit working. The light comes on ,but no function

Good afternoon. I’m in the process of hooking up Autometer gauges on pillar pod. I’d like the lighting to illuminate and dim with the factory gauges. What is the best way to accomplish that?

Thank you. I will do that. Too busy this weekend and headed back to work for probably 5 weeks Monday , so it’ll be September before I can get this done, also gauges, exhaust,one piece drive shaft and free spin hubs next. I’ll post with results. Kevin

Yes.

Great write up, thank you for posting. This new system is powered directly from battery and ignition circuit from fuse block in cab. It has an inline relay in the wiring harness included from FASS. The OEM plug that powered the block mounted lift pump is now disconnected

I already bypassed original filter housing with plans to ultimately remove it. The heater isn’t really needed here where I live .New pump works great. Went with Fleece Sureflo sump and sending unit . Great setup

So, wiring a relay into the old lift pump circuit will eliminate a code from now unused block mounted lift pump. I’d like to just remove filter housing and lift pump.