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Is the rear end on these trucks heavy duty enough to stand posi traction? Am I going to snap axles or anything else? Any reason I shouldn’t do this?

Yeah I got stuck in the sand the other day. I wouldn’t have if it would have been posi traction. I’ve never needed to get into a differential. Pretty straight forward install?

What are my options for upgrading rear end to posi? 2001 4wd 2500

What are the benefits of 35 spline shafts, high pinion housing and 3.73 ratio?

I just scrolled this whole thread. Amazing work. Thank you for sharing your time!

5 u joints, three shafts, unserviceable wheel bearings, differential and transfer case spinning all the time needlessly was my main concern. Increasing efficiency was secondary. That being said, I like the idea of a hotter thermostat. I run diesel engines for a living and have alway understood that they are more efficient when ran a little hotter. A little bit at a time. I have a few more upgrades planned then I’ll be looking to bump up horsepower. Turbo, injectors, tuner 😁

Can you tell me more about the permanent set up to eliminate the CAD please?

Beast came with the solid axle?

I’m pretty sure that’s what it is . Haven’t had time to look at it yet everywhere I look is a project and pickup has slid back down priority list. 😂. I haven’t done any thing with vacuum lines on axle in fact I don’t even really understand what the do as the 4wheel drive manually engages…. Posi lock? I know not Thanks

Finally got the Spyntec free spin hub kit and Autometer pillar gauges installed. I’ve always hated the idea of all that hardware turning up there all the time. I rarely need 4 wheel drive . A lot of work, glad to finally check these off the list , I’ve had the parts for longer than I care to admit. It seems I’ve dislodged something in the process though. Cruise control quit working. The light comes on ,but no function

Good afternoon. I’m in the process of hooking up Autometer gauges on pillar pod. I’d like the lighting to illuminate and dim with the factory gauges. What is the best way to accomplish that?

Thank you. I will do that. Too busy this weekend and headed back to work for probably 5 weeks Monday , so it’ll be September before I can get this done, also gauges, exhaust,one piece drive shaft and free spin hubs next. I’ll post with results. Kevin

Yes.

Great write up, thank you for posting. This new system is powered directly from battery and ignition circuit from fuse block in cab. It has an inline relay in the wiring harness included from FASS. The OEM plug that powered the block mounted lift pump is now disconnected

I already bypassed original filter housing with plans to ultimately remove it. The heater isn’t really needed here where I live .New pump works great. Went with Fleece Sureflo sump and sending unit . Great setup

So, wiring a relay into the old lift pump circuit will eliminate a code from now unused block mounted lift pump. I’d like to just remove filter housing and lift pump.

There is an inline relay with the FASS supplied wiring harness. I know not what this does. I assume I will get a code from the now disconnected block mounted lift pump. Do you know of anything I can plug into that to prevent this?

I’m finally getting around to installing a FASS Titanium unit (that has been on a shelf for quite a few months) on my 2001 manual transmission 4x4. This pickup still has block mounted lift pump. I’ve disconnected electrical plug from the factory lift pump . Where should I put the fuel line from new pump? Inlet of preexisting block mounted filter or inlet side of injection pump. FASS instructions say directly to injection pump. I had some previous advice that said to connect it to inlet side of filter housing. What are the advantages and or disadvantages of either? TIA . Kevin

Is there any way of telling if it has been enabled?

Ok, thanks for that. I’ve read some places that an ECM update is required? This is a dealer thing?

Do I need a Quadzilla tuner for this switch, and when I get one in the future is this switch necessary?

Lol! No,just busy. Bone stock, unmolested, well serviced 150000 Can’t wait to get home. Huge pile of parts I get to throw at it

Just paid 20000 for one in Coeur D’ alene

Thanks. I appreciate the help. I’m away from home at work now. I’ll take a look when I get home. Hopefully I can 90deg off the return internally to keep it away from suction

This is almost an identical OEM sending unit replacement. Something that has been perfectly functional for the previous 150000 miles. The whole idea of buying it was to have a good reliable suction without drilling additional holes in the tank.