gassernomore

Are you using the factory fuel filter as well because of the fuel heater? I have had dirt settle at the bottom of the cannister and then play havoc with my pressure as well. Isn't there a screen on the inlet side of the AD? Could possibly be clogged a little.

The key trick is not reliable for that year of truck. It does not usually read both computers. I would have the codes checked at a parts house.

I must be part of the 1%! I have a Dana 80. Great idea.

Have you checked for codes? Check the PDC under the hood. See if you have a blown fuse for the LP. Exchange with a like fuse and see if you get fuel.

You might check where the gauge plugs into the OBDI port. On my truck, it was turning itself off as well. There is a sliding clip that holds the plug into a metal bracket. My clip was loose, pushed all the way in and no problems for quite some time!

Most don't use an isolator. One draw back with an isolator is that it can gice you a false reading depending on the diaphram not being properly positioned at the start of the install. Regardless, you are putting a gauge on your truck and that is a smart thing to do!

Ryan has you started in the right direction. Need to check for codes. You say you have 19 psi going down the road. What is your pressure at WOT? What is your pressure at idle? Do you notice a drop in pressure at any time when you are driving? When was the last time you changed your fuel filter? What procedure did you use to reset the APPS?

Less pressure on the right foot! I live at 900' elevation and the surrounding towns are at 250'. With my ScanGauge I can see the difference in GPH in relation to going up in elevation. I have found that a light foot and being steady with the pressure on the fuel pedal is my best way to increase MPG's. As well, I get the best MPG's at about 57 MPH.

I don't believe you can get rid of the activation relay because at start up, it gets 50% power so you don't kill the pump. The activation relay is hooked in with the the ECM, I believe. Unless you put a switch on the pump and turned it OFF at start off. The wise ones will correct me if I am wrong!

Just wondering. Are you not worried about the 1698 code? Could be anything from a bad PCM to a ground. Maybe this is where your problems are arising from?

Easiest way to see if the pump on the block is working is to see if the wires from the pump are hooked upto the wiring harness or just dangling there. If hooked up, then it would be like Dave is describing as a helper pump. P.S. I meant to say "bypass the pump" not the filter!

Yes, by pass the filter on the block. Is the pump on the block have power to it? Just wondering, because the PO might have put the extra pump on to assist the weaker pump at the block. Do you know what type of pump it is by the tank? The good thing is, the pump is close to the tank, the PO did you a favor! Why are you putting in a new pump? What is your fuel pressure?

How were your other gauges operating when all of this was going on? Are you having any other electrical issues?

Are you using the wiring harness that came with the Raptor? If so, there is a fuse in the harness. Check that as well. I would disconnect and reconnect the harness at all locations. Check at the pump as well! I ended up putting dielectric grease on all of the wiring harness connections. Also, there is a fuse in the PDC by the drivers side battery. Interchange the fuse with another one of same size and see if you have any luck. Let us know what you found out!

I have mine connected at the fuse for the dash lights. #7 on the fuse block I believe. Lights dim with no problems.

Try putting air pressure to the fuel tank. You don't need alot of PSI to do this. Then look for leaks along the fuel supply lines. Good luck!

How old are the batteries? I have seen where the volts are good but, then once you put them under a load they can't handle the juice flowing out of them. I would have them load tested. Good luck!

Sounds like the contacts. If you are in dire need of the truck, pull the starter and switch the contacts. You will see the contact is extremely worn on one contact and that is the main problem with the starter acting the way it is.GOOD LUCK.

If you have a short in the battery, it can show good in volts. But it will not crank the engine. Found that out years ago when the retail store I was managing sold auto batteries and found the same parameters and same results. Not sure when you say "bad" what kind of test you are running. Put in the new batteries and find out about your fuel issues and get those fixed and then start her up. Good luck!

Your fuel cannister should be FULL. I would just barely crank the starter. Your lift pump should run for about 20 sec. Second, I would disconnect the fuel inlet before the cannister and crank the starter and look for a LOT of fuel to come out. If you got a lot of fuel, then check at the injectors for fuel. Report back your results. Do you have the stock lift pump? Is it in the tank if you do?

Have you tried the dealer? Probably going to spend an arm and a leg from there!

Thanks for the explanation. I figured it was from the factory. Next time I rotate tires I will pull it off (temporarily) and see if I can see any difference.

Just did mine for $60 each.

Yes, it was between the wheel and the hub. It was secured on the studs with the retainer that usually comes from the factory. I never noticed it before, because it was always flat against the hub. One other thing, it says on the ring "this side out". I remember in my earlier days, that they had to put some spacers in between the hub and wheel when you bought after market rims because the tire would rub. The auto makers changed the calipers or something. Can't remember the exact specifics of the problem. But, I do remember the talk was that the aftermarket rim sales were going to be non existent! We all know that didn't happen thou!

Got the job done! :woot:Broke a Craftsman breaker bar. Glad it is Lifetime guarantee! Put a torch to the castle nuts and no problem at all. Used the socket and extension trick on the backside, worked like a charm! By being a member on this site and reading everyone's tricks, it made the job easy! THANKS to EVERYONE in making this a great site! Now, does everyone have this spacer on their passenger side assembly? Has a 3.5 mm and 8376 stamped into it. I figure it must be to push the wheel out a little bit, maybe hitting the frame when cranking it hard?