CTcummins24V

Money bags! I love that blue color. You might have to get some black rims to go with that rhino lining= Powder coat your rims We want pictures!

Local cummins dealer, peterbilt. Once you factor in shipping ordering online it's cheaper to go local

Definitely rides a lot smoother! And, know I why my tachometer would fluctuate and jump around at idle. Since the install, my tach stays dead still when idling or in park. The truck is still in it's comfy spot between 1800-2000 rpm, but it's much smoother up around 2200-2400 rpm. Well worth the $200.

When I bought this truck it had the puke bottle set up and the front seal was leaking. I must have scraped off an 1/8" of oil and clay from the damper before hitting it with brake clean and reinstalling it. Well, it helps! Didn't push it but it idles smoother and doesn't shake over 2000 rpm anymore! I'll have to take it on the highway for a thorough test, but around town it's better!

I'm thinking about one! There are some options out there than just the scan gauge II. What's the best application for our vehicles? The SG II that everyone is running?

Haven't driven it yet, been traveling all week. I'll taker her out tomorrow.

Too expensive. I've been seeing 4th gens with 200,000 miles for over $20,000. One of the contractors I work with got a deal on a 2012 3500 dually brand-new for $42,000. Still too much money

Here's a link for anyone that likes to obsess over rust free Cummins...I check this site all the time for prices of manual trucks and newer CRs. 24vs are still holding price! http://nwmsrocks.com/ram-dodge-cummins-diesel-trucks-for-sale

If you haul or tow heavy I would stay away from ceramics. I ran "green stuff" on the rears for a little bit and they squeaked a lot and once heated up won't stop a load. I rolled through a couple stop signs/red lights with those pads when hauling.

The new one I got had alignment marks. My old one, I couldn't find them anywhere. Even after doing a thorough cleaning with brake cleaner I couldn't find any indication marks

Displaced?

mopartech

Oil resistant hose, but I used a 90 up front and either a 90 or 45 at the back of the engine. The flexible hose makes it easier to work on the engine, you can just move it out of the way. I haven't had any issues with it so far

The back side rubber on the factory damper was squeezed out. The front looked OK. http://www.genosgarage.com/GenosGarageTechArticles/TDR73-HarmonicDamper.pdf Here's a good article

008.MOV New damper and fuel boss running

Installed. Haven't driven her yet

What's the name of the book and where did you get it? I'm considering doing a manual swap next year and I know nothing about the NVs.

Mine sat all winter. No issues what so ever.

Getting an engine vibration over 2000 rpm. It's not speed (odometer) related, because I can go 65 at 1700-1800 rpm no issues, rules out u-joints, I think. Any speed, rpm at 2000 or higher the motor shakes like crazy and I haven't pushed it since this started happening. After 220,000 miles, it's not a bad idea for a new one. I hope it's this simple... I'll post pics tomorrow. All aftermarket dampers protrude forwards too much, not leaving any room for the fuel boss.

I'm going to replace the vibration damper (harmonic balancer) this weekend and was wondering if it is directional or has to be aligned with a mark anywhere? When I resealed my timing cover a couple years ago I just slapped it back on and torqued to spec, but I figured I'd ask the genesius this time. It's an oem cummins, can't run anything else with the fuel boss... Thanks John

Welcome! Where abouts in Mass? I was born and raised there, by Wachusett Mountain.

Yup, go oem from Rock Auto. It's a wells or airtex part which is the oem part.

I take it you don't have a Mrs. yet? haha. They don't take kindly to working on your "stupid truck" on weekend nights

I'd say upgrade to a 3 piece manifold while you have it off, but I installed an ATS one this winter, and it didn't do a darn thing power/flow rise, at least not noticeable.