CTcummins24V

You're preaching to the choir Michael. 1/3 of my paycheck disappears every month to God knows where. Before I go this current job, I couldn't afford healthcare, private or O-care. They were going to charge me for not having health insurance in the state of CT, maybe $600....ridiculous. Then I moved to OH, met a lot of good people with the same ideals as my family of hard work, perseverance and God fearing. A good family unit with the right values goes along way. Looks like Moparmom did right by you. What can we, the silent majority do? Our votes haven't counted the last decade. We work, and taking time off to protest or rally would be difficult, not to mention getting conservatives out in the public is tough enough. A lot of family friends and co-workers are prepping. Stock piling food and ammo for the economic collapse of our system. Some are even investing in gold...what's next?

How many miles on the turbo? It could be leaking as well. Check it again after you put some miles on the BHAF.

Hes strong. Said some bad things and may be uncompliant, but he says a lot of the right things the GOP doesn't have the balls to come out and say. It would be nice if the conservatives would support him. This division in the conservative party is disheartening. We need them to unite. We need a strong leader and people like Cruz, Rubio, Paul and Carson to get on the same page.

Oem spicer, dennysdriveshaft, best bang for the buck

I posted it and the page refreshed and I saw your post and started laughing. Hey look, same size! (injectors). Have you lost any mpgs with those SACs?

Some good links http://www.engineered-diesel.com/blog/sac-nozzle-vs-vco-nozzle/ http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance/1608546-injector-breakdown.html

Ya, 03' and newer are AAM. We have Danas. Not sure if they're compatible.

http://www.goerend.com/index.cfm?Page_name=1996-2003%2047RE%20Master%20Overhaul%20Kit Don't forget the book too, Exploded view diagrams, torque specs. Call goerend

Raybestos or Borg Warner blue or green clutches, I think I have blues in mine, when they rebuilt it last year. I've been to 3 different tranny shops and my local guy all said run blue or green frictions, good for at least 500 hp. Add an extra friction somewhere, not sure. May not need it with a single disc, but a billet/forged input shaft is always a safe bet. Upgraded lever and anchor, billet servo and piston (not oversized), the stock ones are plastic. Aftermarket pan with a drain plug. Upgraded valve body. After botching my shift kit, I would recommend just having someone do it or buy a unit from a dealer who tests the valve body before shipping it. Upgraded planetary, stock is 4 pinion, I forget if I have a 5 or 6. I'm not sure what parts are in my tranny, but I know Sonnax makes billet servos, etc. DTT has servo/piston packages. Heavy duty flexplate. "High energy" bands.

http://www.wholesalemopar.com/parts_catalog.html $170 a piece, ouch

Try searching quad4x4, but I'm guessing the backing plate is a mopar part only

Brake dust shields? http://www.quad4x4.com/product/10964/QU10964-LEFT-BRAKE-SHIELD/

EGR delete, DPF delete and new 4"/5" turbo back exhaust and a mild programmer Maybe an aftermarket air intake, but probably not necessary. Unless you're still under warranty. The fancy stock exhaust weighs hundreds of pounds with all the emissions equipment on it compared to an aftermarket mandrel bent exhaust. The DPF is restrictive and prone to clogging, restricting air flow and possibly causing back pressure and higher EGTs. I know a couple guys who have done these mods and you can gain 3-5 MPGs. Do you have DEF (diesel exhaust fluid) on this rig? Blue cap, possibly near the fuel cap? I know in 2013 and newer all the Cummins use DEF and I don't know if there is a remedy or if some of the 2012s have them.

All this coding is probably over most people heads...myself included. I like the idea of a budget turbo upgrade but I would never consider programming the turbo like you have, mainly because I would have no clue without spending countless hours researching and reading. Spending $1200-1400 on an aftermarket turbo appears to be a bit more simple than tuning the vanes on a VGT. Great posts and write up though! I'll know who to talk to if one day I get a CR and need some turbo tuning. Thanks!

Just got a new switch and adjusted it.

I replaced the hydroboost, now my brake lights are constantly on, can I just move the switch bracket forward or is there something else I need to do?

Well, my middle brother taught me, don't fall in love with a vehicle before you buy it. He gets a new summer v8 car every summer. Sells his current mustang/corvette and gets something different every 1 to 2 summers. My advice would be get a truck from the states, California being the best option. As long as the drive train is good, just about any mechanical problem can be fixed relatively cheaply. Fighting rust is a never ending story. I grew up on the east coast, and the motors would last forever, but the body wouldn't. Even frame rust is troublesome. My old boss had to replace every brake line on his 2006 duramax last year, something I don't have to worry about on my Texas truck, costs over $1000. Inspect everything metal. Rubber parts are cheap. Fuel lines, brake lines, coils seats etc What are your expectations for this vehicle?

For the immediate future it will do, but long term it won't last. Long term could be a couple years. I'd say it's only a matter of time before you put your foot through the bed. Looks to me like there is still some rot, not just surface rust. Depends how long you want to keep it or how much rust you want to deal with. Rust is my pet peeve. My 2003 Ram rotted out, at only 140,000 miles and after that I swore I would never buy another truck from a salt region. How far are you from Washington State?

If anyone is interested, here is the size for the 3 bolts holding the gear box to the frame: Metric: M14 x 2 x 110 10.9 Class Roughly 4-3/8" from inside of head to tip I decided it was a good time to replace them because I cross threaded one of the bolts last time I replaced the gear box. I got 4 bolts and 2 washers for each bolt at Fastenal for under $20.

Whoa! Check out that hair hahah

My dad just got a 2015 F150 2.7 v6 ecoboost. Gets 20-21 mpg consistanly. Decent power but the engine is packed full

it's almost 90 and humid here in Ohio...

Well, I think I found the reason for my spongey brakes...all pads, rotors and calipers have been replaced/resurfaced in the last 2 years. Can anyone confirm this leak can hinder braking before I yank it? Thanks

If the governor solenoid and pressure transducer have never been replaced as far as you know or it's the original trans, it's time to replace them. They're almost wear items in a dodge. It's a good starting point for not a huge cost, and new fluid obviously. You can by these parts individually, borg warner solenoid, pressure transducer and 3-4 spring. Make sure they're for a 99'. Can't say for certain they'll solve everything, but when I got my truck, all I had was 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd. When it warmed up, all I had was 1st and 2nd. See link http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/47regovernorpressureservicekit9899.aspx

Pick up trucks are just too functional. The mileage is terrible on a gasser, but at least you won't have to use bailing twine on a piece of plywood strapped to your roof. Given your mileage each way to work, a crossover or sedan would the most economical, but If I only had 1 vehicle, it would be a 4x4 pick up, but I'm 28. My dad turns 60 this November, he just got his first pick up since he was 20, he loves it! My mom has 240k on her 2006 subaru outback, great little car, 24-26 mpg. Fits just about everything in the back, even a golden retriever. My second option would be a used subaru outback wagon. AWD, half way decent fuel mileage, my fiances 2013 outbacks gets 33 mpg, relatively cheap to fix and plenty of cargo storage in the back. My 2 cents