CTcummins24V

HX35 or HY35 turbo?

how many miles on VP?

If you already have 75s then at least bump up to 125s or 150s. Like you said, try the new turbo with the 75's and see how it is. I have DFI 100s, love them, with a pretty much stock charger. That 64/71 could probably handle 200s, but again smokey in the low rpms

Could be 3-4 accumulator spring in valve body. When my transmission was stock it would slam into fourth gear and I dropped the tranny pan and took out the 3 to 4 accumulator spring in pieces. Cheap and easy fix. Cascade transmission parts

Too risky, it's just inviting someone to smash your window, especially now a days. Not mention people who are scared of guns would call the police on you and they could nit pick anything into a ticket or fine. I keep my 12 gauge tucked behind the seat in my 2 door chevy where people can't see it.

64/71/14? That is a big turbo. With that big of turbo, you'll need big injectors to spool it. You'll smoke in low rpms with big injectors and small injectors won't spool that turbo. If you're set on that size turbo you probably need at least 125s or 150s. Call a vendor and get their 2 cents.

Really? I have 2, one from my hy35 and one from my wh1c. I believe they're both 56mm, if that even matters.

http://www.firepunk.com/trans.php

Rebuild? If you're dropping the tranny, don't forget the rear main seal and heavy duty flexplate if you're getting a triple disc. Check driveshaft u-joints and carrier bearing too

Ridiculous. Pre EGR/DPF Dodges are still holding their price. I don't know why but 2nd gens cost almost as much as 3rd gens on the used market. Every 6.0 guy I know that hasn't modified their motor has run into EGR, oil cooler and turbo issues. There's a couple guys out there that love their 6.0s, but that's because they did all the deletes. My dad just got a brand new F150 Ecoboost 2.7 V6 twin turbo, I'm scared to think what he's going to run into with all that mess under the hood.

yup ^

New clean injectors versus old gummed up injector

No, different companies. This is all ball park, not gospel. There is better atomization of fuel with larger than stock nozzle orifices to a certain point, cost benefit analyses. Once you go over 100hp-125hp nozzles, you're throwing some decent fuel and probably can't burn all the fuel in the cylinder, even with a large turbo or sequential turbos. The fuel just won't break into small enough droplets/vaporize coming out of these larger holes. Spring has a lot to do with it too. For the best atomization, you want that injector to pop and spray that fuel as quick as possible for a complete burn. The quicker the injectors pops and shoots the fuel through the nozzles, the better the fuel vaporizes. When installing injectors, the tip/nozzle should never touch anything as even small contaminants can plug the nozzle orifice.The tip can also be damaged by coming into contact with say a cast iron cylinder head. The tip is finely tuned and wouldn't take much to damage it. There are different grades of injectors, primarily how precise the manufacturer modifies the injector nozzle. Honing can be done to enlarge the nozzle and depending on how accurate the machine/operator are will determine the smoothness of the hole and spray pattern/angle. You should look at some up close pics online of nozzles. DDP is supposed to have one of the cleanest burning injectors. I've used DAP(diesel auto power) and DFI(ducky fuel injection) injectors and liked both of them. The pintle needle could also be an issue. It sits against the inside of the nozzle. If either surface is worn or not making proper contact then fuel can drip or not spray properly.

Injectors have a lot to do with it. My 100hp injectors burn cleaner than 60s. I could belch a black cloud with the 60s. I have a harder time doing that with the 100s.

Balls, I use paypal every month. It was billmelater, then paypal now crap.

We have a tranny guy here somewhere, dynamic maybe. He would be good to get in contact with. Look him up in members and PM (private message) him.

I have minor shaking on my passenger side mirror, it's not bad

Kool vue. 3 years no issues, heated and power. I think I got them from JC Whitney

As far as the valve body is concerned, either get a modified one from a reputable vendor or bring it to your local truck tranny shop. I messed around with mine and ended up having a tranny shop fix it for me. They tend to know all the little tricks and modifications that might not come in a transgo shift kit. Can't help you with the build date. A good indication of your tranny health is to drop the valve body and look at how worn the front band is.

http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/48resolenoidservicekit2003up.aspx http://goerend.com/index.cfm?Page_name=dodge%20diesel%20parts server error? (cascade transmission parts) and goerend website for tranny pan

http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/48re.aspx How many miles on stock tranny? See link...a simple refresh would be drain and refill, 7-12 quarts ATF+4, band adjustment, new pressure transducer and solenoid(either borg warner or DNJ extreme duty assembly), new 3-4 accumulator spring, new pan gasket and filter (genuine mopar filter). Geno's garage has them. recommend aftermarket tranny pan with drain plug, makes life easier in the future If you want more power or will tow heavy, triple disc torque converter and billet input shaft. Valve body modified also. Upgraded servos, apply lever. If you do a complete rebuild, NO red clutches, not needed unless you sled pull/drag race

Could be considered a 5 speed. In town driving for me is different. I do OD off and the transmission pretty much stays in 3rd, but doesn't lock because of all the stop and go. So 3rd lock up is almost like another gear, the rpms drop when it's locked too. I can distinctly feel 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 3rd lock up and 4th. I think when merging on the highway and you're on the throttle 3rd might lock automatically.

Government is trying to scare people. Trying to suppress people that would stand up to big government. Texas is on liberals hit list because it is conservative and relatively free, not to mention ground zero for immigration. The majority of legal gun owners in America are the good ones. The regimes agenda is to disarm the good people in America and have a federal police force that would carry out the ruling powers orders. It's already coming about

From reading online, genuine Cummins parts seem to be the most trouble free. A little more expensive but it's a safe bet. When I eventually pull the head on mine, I'll use a Cummins head gasket. I've debated mahle, fel pro, victor reinz and haven't had any real trouble/experience with any of their gaskets so far. Valve cover gasket from VR stopped one leak I had. My fel pro oil pan gasket leaks, but those are known to. Every other gasket on my truck is genuine cummins. I would recommend a 3rd gen intake manifold gasket, they are rubber encased metal where the 2nd gens are a treated paper.

47re/48re are 4 speeds automatics. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 3rd lock-up and 4th (overdrive/4th is locked). I don't think tow haul on dodges changes shift points. Like you said, the main purpose is to keep you out of overdrive (4th gear). So when in tow haul mode the transmission won't go higher than 3rd lock-up. I use tow haul when driving around town or when keeping speeds under 50-55 mph. These transmissions are known to shuttle shift/search for gears and will hunt between 3rd and 4th sometimes.