CTcummins24V

You'll have plenty of fuel to spool it. You might have to call someone to get a good answer. I've read about successful swaps on the other forums and I want to say jkidd from diesel auto power (DAP) might have some good info and parts. I seem to remember JOHNFAK on this forum saying this swap is better than a hybrid.

Just got a used holset 14cm non-wastegated turbine housing from gillett diesel to help keep the turbo from surging under acceleration and higher boost and...the housing they gave me has cracks in it. I installed it anyways just to see how it performs and if I need to return it I should know to upgrade to a 16cm or throw some more money for a wastegated 14cm. Anyways, it has hammer marks on the outside, no biggie, but there are two cracks on the inside where it meets the center section. Is this housing shot or can I run it? I already took a small ride and no issues but is this housing going to crack through and blow up and take out my turbine blade?

Yes sir, that is a bed of 3500s, and old style end caps. The end caps have since been redesigned and beefed up and have corrugations like the chambers. That definitely isn't the color of soil from the northeast.

Here's the video that helped me from Thoroughbred Desiel

I tried to PM you but it didn't work, so now everyone has to read this. You should start seeing more stormtech chambers. I've done some R and D work for them and I cover job sites from time to time and the chamber market is taking off! I get shipped around the country once and a while, maybe I'll see you out there. Did you ever get your thermostat under control? If so what did you do, it makes me nervous watching the temperature fluctuate so much.

After reading this post I checked my return line at the back of the head and it is leaking, i can smell the 2 cycle and see the back of the head is wet. I get "hard starts" everyday in the morning but restarts during the day are fine. My bell housing was wet too at the top.

Haa that's funny. I do some work for advanced drainage systems (ADS), corrugated plastic pipe w/green stripe, and stormtech, owned by ADS, plastic arch chambers. I did some office work for them not too long ago and I certainly saw some Chick-fil-A projects across the country where stormtech was spec'd but I don't know how many went through.

How many miles would you get out of an oem trackbar? I have just over 15,000 miles and less than a year on my moog trackbar and I just started chasing the front end again and bump steer is awful...everything was tight when the components were new last winter.

Just to make sure, check the vacuum lines and make sure they're all connected and not rotting off. One of mine dry rotted this fall and the drive line would make awful noises when you'd try to engage 4x4. Also, check to make sure you are in 4x2 or 4x4 and not "in-between" the two selections, that will make a grinding noise.

Replaced the oil pressure sensor today and the in-dash gauge is back to normal. Idle pressure at full temp is back below 40, 0 pressure before start up, and the needle moves in correlation with the throttle. Still have the codes but I think I read somewhere they will go away once the truck gets driven a while. Did an oil change too but the sensor has to be the culprit, I'm pretty sure it was the factory sensor because the VOID sticker was still on the ECM harness and it had not been touched. New part was $90 from the local Cummins place, new part # 4326849. Oil pressure sensor is located under the fuel filter and ECM harness on the driver's side. Quick Write Up 1. Disconnect 2 negative battery cables. 2. Remove two 10mm bolts holding fuel filter housing to manifold cover and push housing aside. 3. Remove one 4mm allen bolt from ECM harness and pull back harness. 4. If original unit, use a 32mm double deep socket to remove oil pressure sensor (old part# 3408428). 5. Use 1-1/16 double deep socket to install new oil pressure sensor (new Cummins part# 4326849). 6. Torque manifold/fuel housing bolts to 18 ft-lbs. 3 prong New sensor is the smaller of the two...made in mexico You can see the ECM harness pulled away and the oil pressure sensor/harness below it.

If you order the VB online, make sure it's tested before it gets sent out. I know Goerend tests them and I think BD does as well. Or you can get one like I did that was never tested and didn't work out of the gate and my local tranny guys had to configure it, so I paid twice for a VB. If you have good a local tranny shop that knows dodges, proximity is better, you don't have to worry about shipping and core charges and it saves time and money. I haven't used them but Goerend seems to be tops.

If its a 4x4, you need to buy the whole hub unit assembly

It appears so. I've read of people installing the tab even with the upgraded housing too? Check the gasket between the block and timing case, it's paper. Mine was shot and actually fell in the case in some places. The downside is the case needs to be removed to replace the gasket because one of the gears is pressed into the case...I believe. I just did a patch job with rtv but it was a patch.

The up and down motion is to check for bad ball joints. The in and out motion (to and from the truck) is for bearings

Late model 01, upgraded housing where the hole is smaller than the pin. NO KDP.

Dropped in the 200 degree stant t-stat from rockauto and my temps are still fluctuating. The temp hit 200, the t-stat opened and dropped just below 190 when the coolant started flowing. Then, the temp crept back up to 200, the t-stat opened and dropped to 190-195. Over a 4 hour highway ride the temp would creep to 200, t-stat would open, drop to 190-195ish and keep doing that the whole way. Temps were always over 190, heat was hot hot, and I think my mpgs were up. My overhead showed almost 23mpg, it's pretty close to hand calculated. I only had about 400lbs in the bed but had some good wind resistance and I had a head wind so the engine was always under some load and I still can't keep a constant temp. Normal temp fluctuations or should I be searching for something?

X2 on the unit bearing/hub. Jack the front up, grab the tire at 12 and 6 and try to rock it back and fourth

When the fuel gells, does it just gell up the fuel filter or the lines and tank as well? My buddies 6.0 froze up a couple weeks ago in sub zero temps but my truck and our bosses' dmax were fine

How much fuel did you have in your tank? Less than a 1/8?

They are just 2 new o-rings. I forget exactly where they go but I remember one fell off into the abyss during removal of the old unit and the other was stuck in a perfect slot.

Bark with an HX35 at that low of boost? Do 12vs operate that much differently than 24vs? There goes those gauges again...maybe for tax returns (gauges are my next purchase, after an oil pressure sensor). After doing some more reading, I'm still thinking the 60mm compressor is pushing more air than the 12cm housing can exhaust and the back pressure is going to compressor and hence surging. Upgrade to 14cm housing? I know everyone will say get an s300 platform with a stronger shaft and what not, but I've already gone this far with my WH1C and I'd like to make her work.

Even with my recently installed winter front, the 190 NAPA isn't holding 190. I was only seeing 190 upon acceleration. I just ordered a Stant 200 from rockauto for under $20. If that doesn't work I might be hunting down some electrical bugs. The early 6.7 is the same as your 5.9, sounds like NAPA sold you the wrong thermostat.

It seems as though I'm getting the infamous "compressor surge" from my hybrid. When on half throttle or better, in 3rd or 4th gear so far, it sounds like the compressor is fluttering. No problems during normal driving, no "bark" on let off. Upon acceleration and some throttle around 2000 rpm +/- the turbo is making some funny noise which I never had before. Surge?

I stopped in to see my mechanic, our local diesel guy who works at a repair shop during the week and works at a performance shop specializing in powerstrokes on the weekends, he said oil pressure sensors going bad are a dime a dozen on 2nd gens, with my 5022/3 codes he confirmed our speculation. I'll do the sensor change and oil/filter change since it's about time this weekend and report back with my findings and up to date part number for the sensor.

I've got 3 different part numbers going now. Cummins quickserve is giving me 3408429. Genos says 4326849, Hoelsi says and another site say 4921511. Might be stopping at cummins metro power this week