CTcummins24V

Killer223, I'm in the same boat. My HY has some play and oil leakage and I'm ready for a rebuild, and I'm leaning towards an HX upgrade. I just got an EZ on level 3 (+65 HP) and I have 60 HP injectors and the HY seems to handle the power just fine. I found an HX around here that needs a rebuild for $150 plus $100 for the rebuild kit. I don't see a downside. Hopefully I can get this accomplished in 2-3 weeks and report my findings.

Oil pressure at cold start up should be a lot higher than 40. When warmed up mine idles at 40 or just under. I'm not sure about the other

Cooper AT3s! Had 265s on my Hemi and put 15,000+ miles and still looked brand new. Currently have 285s with 8,000+ miles on the Cummins with great wear and traction (hope to see 50,000+ miles)...285s (33") look good on a stock truck but if you want that mean look go wider 305s (33") or bigger 315s(35")...as long as you don't care about mpgs

19.1 mpg hand calculated this past week, 1/2 a tank highway 1/4 tank country roads, running supertech...averaging 70 mph and some stop and go on the highway. Edge EZ by the end of the week! Hopefully I'll see a jump after a couple weeks!

Just did the vacuum seal kit, by myself...took almost 6 hrs! Used the Gould kit and used the how to video on youtube. Hardest part was taking the pump in and out of the bay and seized up oil feed lines.

I used some oil resistant hose from NAPA, maybe 1" ID, kinda looks like a garden hose but red outside black inside, ran it down front and then dumped it behind the front axle, all zip tied. Seems to work fine, no bad smell in cab after oil change, we'll see how she behaves with high snow or slush next winter

That picture looks familiar. Hey Michael have you done your seals yet? My seal kit comes Wednesday and I'm hoping to get it done this weekend...it would be nice to have a guide other than the cummins manual...hint hint

Can an HX35 from a 12v directly mount up to my 2001 or do I need one from a 24V?

Where you from Ed? I used to live right near Wachusett Mountain in Princeton

Mine is leaking as well, drips everyday, I'll post pics or tips in a week or two when I do it. Geno's has 10% off fleetguard filters in the month of July so I'll wait till the 1st to order the Goulds kit with CD and save on some filters too! The seal kit is $30, the seal kit and instructional CD is $60.

Installed newer version of s&b intake with dry filter, upgrade guarantee for only $99. It was cheaper than a BHAF and a stock intake tube...nobody has a stock intake around here for cheap. Anyways, replaced beat-up, old and dirty oiled s&b filter and older model intake for nice new clean dry one...I like it. No noticeable difference performance wise except the engine is much quieter at idle? Clean filter easier flow?Cleaned my turbo again, but after inspection it appears I need a rebuild kit or an HX35 upgrade! Turbo was excessively dirty and has oil coming out the back. We'll see next oil change if it was the filter or leaky turbo getting everything dirty.

The mph rule definitely works for me. At 60-65 (62 is my sweet spot) I can hit 20+ mpgs and then 65 mph or more and my mpgs drop to 17-18 or less...right foot is the biggest contributor. If you can keep your foot out of it injectors will help mpgs, but don't expect gains until at least a month after the install. Ask me how I know. Gained 2 mpgs this past tank by driving like a normal human being, and maybe my first tank of supertech helped.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/63-adding-2-cycle-oil-to-diesel-fuel Michael has a write up. On my first tank now! Oil burner!

I'm guessing they're from the factory, so over 208k...and seemed to be running fine

Said I'd post a pic of old gunked up injectors vs new 60 HP ones...very happy so far. Can't wait to get my edge comp!

I think I had those same codes when I was installing my fuel system and the new wiring harness for the carter pump and hobbs switch. Choppy idle and tach bouncing but fine when I was driving...I'm sure Michael will chime in but a wiring or electrical issue could be present. PS, as stated above, if you take the starter off a rebuild kit from Genos is worth it!

Let's beat this dead horse...Truck Fest is in the fall and you get 2 dyno runs. Hopefully they'll let me swap filters and see how it affects an under 400 HP truck...300 HP, no edge comp yet. Until then, BHAF install next week and if I don't like it dry filter on the upgraded s&b intake (only $99 for newer version of intake)...either way I can't see it having a major effect on a mild daily driver truck.

I'm also interested in your findings. I'm thinking of doing a budget friendly hy35 to hx35 upgrade in the near future

So that means the biggest thing you got to worry about is filtration. Being that all washable filters tend to break down each time you wash them means that in a short period of time you'll be pushing dirt through.

My truck came with an S&B CAI oiled filter and I think the oil is getting sucked out of it...every engine oil change I wipe my turbo clean and next change it's dirty again (only 3,750 mile intervals). I'm either going BHAF or replacement dry filter. I'll post again in a week If I switch set ups

I'll hit 209k this weekend!

I just popped in some +60 HP injectors the other week and I'm still in the fun stage. I may or may not have done 60 to 100 rips on the highway this morning with another 24v and a square body 7.3...after that I did a refill hand calculated got 15.1 mpg (16 overhead) and that was 75% or more around town driving. I'm more than willing to bet my numbers are up from stock (if I can keep my foot off it). My previous high in stock form was 19-20 mpg highway trip.

How much rear wheel power are you gonna be putting down with the new p-pump set up?

Love my 4" turbo back exhaust! Had it straight piped for a while but it was a little loud for daily use, put the straight through muffler on that came with the kit and noticed a little loss of flow, but still sounds mean at WOT and has that awesome CUMMINS idle! This third gen that lives on my road always drives by with his 5" and has me wondering about going bigger in the future though...

Hmmm, I just did injectors the other week and I seated the injectors then connector tubes, torqued the injector hold downs then torqued the hard lines and I had spray from the hard line nuts. I retorqued the hard line nuts and all seems to be good. No leaks. No fuel in oil. Is it evident if there is a leak into the fuel return rail and what will it do? Everything seems fine, although there is a quick sputter upon cold start up. Thanks