CTcummins24V

My 3-4 spring was broken, it's easy and cheap to replace. The governor solenoid and pressure transducer are pretty straight forward, the TCC/OD Solenoid is a little more involved. Weld on a drain plug or do an aftermarket pan. I had bad luck with the generic bolt on drain plug, it leaked for me.

x3 on friction modifier for rear differential(absolutely needed) even though some gear oils say it's included, get the borg warner solenoid, NAPA is having a sale right now $9.99 for a gallon of 15w-40, NAPA ATF+4 is the same as valvoline but cheaper thermostat?

I put synthetic in one oil change and the old gal didn't like it. She leaked everywhere she could and left a huge puddle under the front-end everyday. Three days later, back to dino premium blue and only the usual couple drips (seal between timing cover and block).

Did you get it rebuilt yet? If so let's see the parts list. Mine's in the shop right now being torn down

Around 2000 rpm upon acceleration it sounds like I have a boost leak coming from the back of the engine in the center of my dash. The head gasket isn't noticeably leaking anywhere and my coolant level is good. I replaced the intake horn gaskets, intake manifold gasket and put new intercooler boots on. I'm thinking the head is lifting, due in part because I swapped my HY35 for WH1C with an aftermarket wastegate set at 35 psi. And no gauges...yet...maybe it's just more air sound I don't know, wastegate?. Any thoughts?

Try a new gasket, they're cheap...and coat it with vaseline. Also, my timing cover gasket (between the block and cover) was paper and fell in the timing cover right underneath the water pump and leaked oil (made it look wet) right underneath the pump

Can a smarty from a 3rd gen enable high idle, or does it have to be a 2nd gen smarty?

Replacing the bands means dropping the tranny...aka a rebuild if $ permits. The adjustment screw will also dictate the condition of the bands. If the band is worn front band screw will thread deeper into the case

Torque converter unlocking/locking? 4th gear (4th lock) unlocks when you let off the throttle, then locks back up when you step on it. You're unlocking at throttle on a turn?

I'm running mine without the hobbs switch because it kept cycling on and off even though I had good pressure... maybe a bad switch. I just cut the new wiring harness in the kit in half and made the connections. Dielectric grease on the connections and silicone on the cut wire ends (to prevent corrosion)....oh and NO CODES.

Thanks for the input everyone, I'm going to try the Transgo shift kit and some billet goodies for the valve body this week and probably the "super single" converter from DPC

Thanks guys, but my wallet is kinda dictating everything and right now it's thin. I already have the TFOD diesel shift kit from Transgo and I'm getting prices on Monday from Pro Torque, Transtar (Recon), DPC. Might have to be a patch job for now, like a rebuilt Recon unit for around $600, CR70X-S1. Or any suggestions for single disc around $600-700ish? I know it's NOT ideal but I have to try to keep my truck on the road for cheap. Estimated power ~360HP ~720 TQ?symptoms-TC shudder/pulsing, especially in 3rd lock with OD off-fluid is dark but not burnt- I've heard that is TC clutch material, pan was coating with a light film of it-"slush box feel"

My torque converter is on it's way out and I'm swapping it this week for an upgraded billet low stall single disc, anyways, what else should I replace (budget friendly) while I have the tranny out? Seals? Washers?-solenoids are new -new filter and fluid obviously-shift kit -possibly billet servos-pan with a plugThanks

DO NOT get ceramic pads! They heat up and won't stop, especially if you've got weight...it's scary

Just another failed 3-4 accumulator spring. Had a really hard 3-4 shift and here's why:

The box brace will help but if the box is shot you'll still get some slop. I rebuilt my entire front end (minus box) 12,000 miles ago and put a brace and I still had 1-2" slop side to side from center. Just put in a redhead gear box yesterday and she's finally tight! Process of elimination.

My local diesel mechanic said get one for the added rigidity. My local tranny shop who build trace transmissions told me to get one for the 10 to 12° temp drop

Is it worth spending $250 on a deep transmission pan? Or just weld drain plug on stock pan? Thanks

Finally did the swap! 56mm compressor/12cm turbine up from 9cm turbine. Put an adjustable wastegate from Gillett Diesel along with the boost elbow from my Edge EZ. Spools a little slower down low but not much and really helped mid and top end. It just keeps pulling past 2200 rpm where my HY would choke. Turbo is a lot louder and and I can hear the air flow...although I think I have a boost leak from the driver's side now. The extra boost is definitely noticeable! Nice budget upgrade.

I know I need a full rebuild but can't afford it now, is it possible upgrading piece by piece? I have awful TC shudder and am thinking of just replacing the TC for now or do I need a VB and upgraded internals too? And do I need to triple disc for 450-500 HP?

Awesome thanks! Now, another question. There is a small crack in the turbine housing (at the wastegate lever) and I might replace it. Upgrade to 14cm housing or keep the 12cm housing? Current HP is about 360, with a max 460 HP in the future, at least 400 HP, daily driver, don't tow that often...from what I've read the 12 spools quicker (which I want) and will support up to 450 HP. Any thoughts? Thanks.

So the supposed HX35 I bought ended up being a WH1C. For all purposes it seems to be an HX35, other than drilling and tapping for a boost elbow, is this a "bolt-on" swap? It has 5 bolt holes in the rear so I think I can reuse my HY35 exhaust adapter? Has anyone done this?

285/75/r16 or 33" are a great compromise between look and function. Big enough to look proportionate and function well enough in the snow and off road...as long as you have 4x4. Mixed feelings about coopers as of now because my shocks were completely shot which caused cupping and outer wear. But, on the path to 40,000 miles or more with 15,000 on them now. - - - Updated - - - 285/75/r16 or 33" are a great compromise between look and function. Big enough to look proportionate and function well enough in the snow and off road...as long as you have 4x4. Mixed feelings about coopers as of now because my shocks were completely shot which caused cupping and outer wear. But, on the path to 40,000+ miles or more with 15,000 on them now. A lot of guys around here with utility bodies and commercial trucks are running firestone transforce with great results, wear and longevity.

I'm finally picking up an HX35 off a 96', doing the HY to HX swap, and was wondering what RPM the HX starts to spool? My HY seems to start at around 1700 or sooner and I'm hoping the HX isn't going to be laggy with my setup.Thanks

HY35 or HX35 turbo? My HY gets hot with my mods and isn't much good past 2200-2400 rpms. But, +60 HP injectors and +65 HP box are an awesome start! Makes the truck much more drive-able.