CTcummins24V

Ripping a 2x8 (1.5"x7.25" actual) into a 1x8 (1"x7.25" actual)? Why not just buy a 1x8 (.75"x7.25" actual), do you need that extra 1/4"? Also, it comes out nicer when you to rip the whole piece to width then cut to length. A 40 tooth blade should be a cleaner cut than a 24 tooth. Did you check for square, the blade and the rip fence against the table? (use a speed square or framing square) This kinda sounds like the saw is out of whack.

I think the super b is a 58/65/14 and the he351 is a 60/60/9. From what I've been reading both those turbos are awesome for 400 HP and both capable of 500 HP. There was a huge article where some guy ran just about every aftermarket turbo on his commonrail, super b special, ats 4000, fleece modified he351 and some others, I can't remember them all but the stock he351 was the best suited across the board

BD super b is rated for 870 CFM, and here is the chart...I couldn't find a pdf so I had to scan it from my diesel book Power and Mass Flow Chart.doc

Cool, keep us posted on that combination. Also, how are those 100s, smokey? powerful?!!! Hopefully sometime this summer I'll have some money for a super b or s300g style. The super b is rated for 425 but the flow rate, cfms, is rated for up to 500HP! I'll see if I can post the chart...

Nice, which turbo are you looking into?

Awesome. Thanks for the help guys.

When i bought my truck i had that problem and i had to replace everything...but i had a pinched brake line from the T at the axle

Finally got my EV mechanical gauges from DAP and need some help. This is my first gauge install and I'm not great with wiring. How do you bleed the air out of the fuel line going from the needle valve to the gauge? FYI, I'm skipping the isolator and just running fuel in the cab.

That's a nice!

I dont know first hand but supposedly the hx is good up to 100hp sticks but it might be a little smokey. I have DAPs, they were a good price and were bosch bodies. I think moparman might have something going on with vulcan diesel so check them out too. DAP and Vulcan are both site sponsors so hit them up.

The good thing about the genuine rv275s is they are brand new like dripley said and you can keep your old injectors just in case, or send them in and get $100 back...I think that's what DAP has on their site. I don't believe any of those injectors will smoke while towing, unless you're lugging the heck out of engine/turbo. I had this same debate last year and I went with the 60s just because I knew I wanted to make 400-425 reliable horsepower and the 60s and an edge comp would put me there.

I have no second guesses about the fuel boss. It allows you to keep your stock pump too, so you essentially have 2 working pumps if one fails.

Return lines, plural. There are 2. I just flushed mine today again because mine was groaning as well...and a crap load of debris came from the gear box line.

I believe they are about the same, same principal of a mechanical lift pump running off the crank. All based off the MITUSA if i'm not mistaken. Call them both and pick their brains is the best answer...leave a message with richard at GDP and he will get back to you that same day.

What are you horsepower goals/driving situations? Choose your number 400, 450, 500, whatever? and figure out what parts you need to achieve those numbers. Injectors also have some say in the turbo selection and how smokey it is so factor that in. I've been running DAP 60s for a little over 10,000 miles and no issues so far. Truck runs clean, no smoke unless I dog the turbo in 4th lockup. I want to say DAPs are bosch cores that have been bored.

It has a muffler. Now that you say that, it surges the worst at highways speeds when I go to accelerate to pass someone on the highway. From a stand still to acceleration it seems to fine. Cruising at 65 mph on the highway is fine but as soon as I give it some fuel it starts fluttering. I'm going to put my 56mm compressor back on in a couple minutes...

Codes wouldnt pop up on my little $100 matco scanner. They're stored on the ECU using the key trick. Ive put over a couple hundred miles since the install and they're still there, gauge is back to normal so unless you can clear codes with a key trick im stumped

That HY is gonna get super hot...i could get my coolant temp to rise over 190 with a 180 t-stat with an edge EZ, nevermind a comp or jwa

Dont get me started on government and money. I've worked for small business and do contract work, i know all about workmans comp, special assessment taxes, insurances and i live in CT...pretty much liberal capitol of the US...hence my current job search in the midwest/southeast, anywhere outside the rust belt/northeast

No gauges yet. When my tax return money comes thats my next purchase.

Even with the bigger 14cm housing its still surging. Especially accelerating at highway speeds. I'm gonna put the original 56mm housing and wheel back on and see how that works with the 14cm turbine

I still have codes p0522 and p0523 for oil pressure high voltage and low voltage. Any ideas?

For the price in this situation and the ease of disassembly/install I didn't worry about it and my local guys had one in stock, easy decision. The unit that came off was a cummins unit, almost 220k miles on the vehicle, I'm guessing it had been replaced once upon a time under warranty but I have no idea how old it is. Anyways, I think I found the cause for the failure... When I got the truck it had the green stuff and it was like pond scum and there was 1/2" of dirt/rust in the overflow bottle. I drained it, flushed it with a hose till I had clear water running through and then put in zerex g-05 HOAT, the yellow stuff...that was last spring. I drained a couple gallons this time and it was loaded with scales and particles and the coolant is rust colored and not as yellowy as it should be. Come nicer weather I think I'm going to flush it again, run it with water, flush it, and possible add a coolant filter system. Dieselsite has one for $130. http://www.dieselsite.com/19985-2011dodgecummins59l67lcoolantfiltrationsystem.aspx

For $50 I picked up a NAPA pump, 1 year warranty, brand new, we'll see what happens.

My weep hole has a good leak, it drained the entire recovery bottle in a one hour road trip. Anyways, gates/NAPA brand are only about $40 where a cummins water pump is over $100. Go factory or aftermarket? Thanks