TFaoro

Youtube can be your best friend.

The only thing that saved you was the CAD unit. The front drive-shaft does not turn full speed when in 2wd. Luckily you caught it before you really needed it!

The biggest problem is AIR DOG. haha I'm not sure about specifics, but someone else will chime in

Mopar Man, I finally got a chance to check out the final write up for the gauge pod installation. I think it looks good, but I would change a few things if I could. 1. At the end take out the last sentence, as that was just for people's input on the forum. 2. Let people know that the power wire can be ran to any 12V source, or any 12V wire can be tapped to add the power. Other than that it looks great and I appreciate the opportunity to do the write up!

You have to start somewhere! This site is one of the best on the net for beginners and experienced diesel owners. To answer your question, EGT stands for Exhaust Gas Temperature. Running too hot of EGT's for extended periods of time will melt the pistons off.

Out of curiosity, what engine performance mods were on your truck? BTW filling in your signature isn't a bad idea!

Fass here with Zero problems. It sounds like you can't wait, but if you can wait I would buy one of Yankneck's that he will be producing in the future. It will be the best available !

That is why I suggested at an angle. If you have the bar only touching the outside edge of the tread when lifting it will pull the bottom of the tire out. That is how I was taught and I have found 2 bad bearings that way That being said, if you get the bar underneath the tire and have most of the tire touching the bar & it moves up and down then the ball joints are worn.

Great Idea. Always willing to help the fellow Cummins owners!

My truck is an 02, so it has a different shifter, but I have the same problem. It is a pain in the A$$ to get in and out of 2H-4H and 4H-2H. Hopefully someone has answers!

If you aren't sure if you are strong enough, stick a metal bar under the tire at an angle and lift up and down.

So if this "diaphragm" does flex how is it going to break or rupture? As mike has stated, the metal part of it is extremely hard. So by your tiny amount of "flex" could this even break it?

Lakewood, Colorado (15min West of Denver) Travel distance doesn't really matter just help pay for the fuel!

That means oil is coming out of turbo seals. You need to put a kit in the turbo and the oil should stop!

Exactly what I was thinking!

I will be going out of my way to find a high volume truck stop during the colder months. Thanks for all of replies and help!

Usually oil on the compressor wheel is caused by using oiled filters. Was the original foam one oiled? To check shaft play grab the nut on the intake side and try to lift up, down, in, and out. Also, inspect and see if the compressor wheel has been hitting the housing at all. If it is exceptionally loose your turbo probably needs some new bearings.

What type of air filter are you running? Does the turbo have any shaft play?

The requirements are pretty specific... From your sig you wouldn't be able to help! Trust me I would have helped test as well, but I didn't meet the requirements!

Until about 3:00 today I just kept trying to start the truck by running the lift pump and cranking it. I had to crack injectors and do all of that crap a couple of times to get it to run. I did this twice then started pulling lines apart further up the system At about 5 o'clock tonight I finally got everything ungelled enough to make the truck run with a sustainable fuel pressure. I actually ended up pulling the line off of the intake to the oem fuel filter. from there it was barely running any fuel out with the lift pump on. I kept running the pump on and off for an hour (Pouring precious diesel on the ground) until the blockage finally came out, and when it did fuel went EVERYWHERE! In the meantime I had jumpers hooked to a buddy's truck to keep the batteries at a decent level. I'm positive I got either contaminated fuel or untreated fuel. Thank you ED for helping me get everything working again. I put another dose of 911 in tank but couldn't fill up at a truck stop thanks to a test. The truck is plugged in now and I'm hoping it will be ok in the morning! Full dose of 1oz to 1 gallon of two stroke since I bought the truck!

I tried draining the water out of my oem separator and the first fuel was blue, but that doesn't mean the rest of the tank isn't contaminated. I will get to a truck stop as soon as I get it running and top the tank off.

I'm in college and this is my only vehicle, so I can't help but have to drive it. I've never had a problem starting it's just the fuel. I spoke with yankneck earlier and he suggested trying to fill up at a big truck stop as they should have anti-gel in their tanks. He also suggested more diesel 911 to help prevent it even more. What are your thoughts?

Somewhere around -15deg this morning. I put in enough diesel 911 yesterday for 50 gallons! Then I drove 30-40 miles in traffic, which should have gotten the 911 into all of the lines,filter, and injection pump. I had to have gotten crap fuel at some point???? :banghead:

Well this morning the fuel gelled so hard I couldn't get any fuel up to the pump even with the diesel 911 in the tank. I changed the filter to a new one and now have fuel up at the injection pump, but I think it ran the injector lines dry because it won't even attempt to fire . So I am trying to get an extension cord from my apartment to plug it in then I will have to go buy a wrench to crack the lines. Such a SHITTY day :banghead: