TFaoro

Breaks work great! I'll do that later today and report back

With a couple thousand miles on it is it even possible to have air in it?

Moparman, I don't believe it is debris from the first pump because it never actually "failed". It was just making this same groaning noise, so I replaced it thinking it would solve the problem. This is part of the reason I think it might be something else. I will take it for a ride today and get it good and warm if I can! If anyone else has had this problem shouldn't stepping on the breaks really hard at that rpm cause the same noise? Because it doesn't with the breaks I'm curious if it could be the steering box. And if anyone has any idea why would it only do it around those rpms? Higher it doesn't make noise and lower it doesn't make noise. Thanks for the quick replies!

Yes the truck was jacked up and turned lock to lock multiple times, as the instructions stated. I'm just curious as to why this exact same thing would happen with two pumps. Is it even the pump? Could it be the steering box that is making the noise? Both fluids have made the same noise

I have replaced my power steering pump twice now and can't seem to get the noise to go away. When the engine is around 1100-1300 rpm and the power steering fluid is warm it makes noise and groans (Only when turning the steering wheel). It is pretty loud and can be heard in the cab. The first pump I ran penzoil power steering fluid. With this second pump I have full synthetic ATF fluid in there. Each time I replaced it I removed the return line and got all of the fluid out (Started and turned the wheel for a few seconds). Then replaced the pump, filled the pump, lifted the front end, started it and turned it back and forth until it felt good. Then refilled the pump. I only have 2,000 miles on this pump and it has made noise pretty much since I bought it.. Same with the first one. Anyone have any ideas?

I have heard of trucks not having enough voltage to energize the computer while the engine is cranking, but that doesn't sound like your issue. It really sounds like your vp might be starting to die.... You need to get a fuel pressure gauge installed to find out if you are ruining the pump. Does the truck have the original lift pump on the side of the block or something else?

When it does finally start does it fire right away and run like normal, or does it sputter a bit? Are your battery cables clean? Are your batteries fairly new or are they getting old? Is the alternator charging well or is it on the way out?

Any codes? When you say 2-5 starter engages, does that mean the engine does not turn over on the " engage" ? If it isn't turning over you definitely need some starter contacts! Best place to buy them with the plunger is here: http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge-denso-starter-solenoid-kit-89-2006.html This forum just had a good write up posted here: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/1364-starter-contact-write-up/ If you fill out your signature it will help everyone diagnose your problems!

Great! I'll get it done asap!

That all depends on what you plan to do with the truck. If you are going to leave the stock turbo on it I would go with the 40psi. If you plan to put a bigger turbo on and do some fueling upgrades I would go with a 60 or a 100. All depends on your plans!

When I bought mine I went with the "upgraded" pump. It didn't have new electronics but it had a 2012 or newer computer. The first one ran for 5 miles then fell flat on its face. p0216 code - injection pump timing failure. I called him and got a warranty pump. That one ran for about a week and a half. Then the truck started having trouble starting and would bellow white smoke just idling. He said somehow the timing got messed up. No codes. I tried getting him to upgrade me to new electronics but he refused unless I paid the difference. So I sent him his pump back and bought an industrial injection. 1,500 miles problem free. Even starts easily in -15 degree weather!

From DAP?? I thought I had read that DAP gets their vp44's from industrial injection, but I could be wrong. The only place I know 100% will warranty a tapped pump is Blue Chip...... But I still have nightmares about my experience with them

I saw first had what it looks like when removed. You can see the spot where the stealth plate tap pokes into the wire.

That is the point, but if I send it back under a warranty claim and they pull the cover off of the computer they will see where the wire was pierced from the stealth plate. With the way my luck went with the blue chip pumps I need all the warranty time I can get!

Yankneck, I will tear it all apart this weekend and have it done on Saturday (BRONCOS SUNDAY!!) Do you want me to cut the zip ties to pull the wires out and show where they run, or do you just want me to take pictures with them in place? Also, would you like this in a new thread like me78569 did with his write up? Thank you for a great product! Tyler

I still have both in my truck, I just don't have the wire tap on the comp hooked up. I called industrial injection and they said if I tapped the wire even with the stealth plate it would void my warranty So for now i'm just running the smarty until the warranty is up! (Smarty boost is between 28-30lbs and egs always <1000)

When I had my programmers stacked I ran the smarty on sw2 and the comp on 5x5. I saw 30-32 pounds of boost and max egt's to 1300. Just my

Try changing the torque management settings and the timing settings. If your smarty has the latest software you should be able to do this before re-programming. If you need a step by step to figure out how let me know!

Gauge mount on the steering column. I ran the wires out of the back of the gauge to the left and as far back as possible on the steering column, then out into the engine bay. I can take more pictures if anyone needs them.

Are you checking for codes with a scanner or just the key trick? Key trick does not show all of the codes.

The edge elbow allows you to build more boost. I would recommend leaving the elbow in and buying a boost fooler . I'm sure you are setting some overboosting codes.

1. I have never heard of a homemade wastegate mod, but I'm sure someone somewhere has just shoved a resistor in there. 2. If you are going to get a boost fooler and you aren't going to add an edge comp or other higher horsepower programmer leave it plugged and just get a fooler. 3.If you aren't looking to go crazy with power, but want some extra boost I would consider swapping out the stock turbo with a holset hx35 (Stock for manual transmissions) would be the best way to go. Then get a boost elbow and a boost fooler. Make sure that tranny will hold though!

Not sure if we have the same symptoms or not, but mine will not go all the way into those gears when I'm stopped. It just goes in a little then stops. If I let the clutch out really slow it slips right in. Are these the same symptoms?

My recommendation is to put an adjustable elbow on it and set it to max at 35 psi. Also, turn the programmers down to keep the egts manageable. With the amount of fuel pouring in that engine you need a bigger turbo to keep the egts lower.