TFaoro

Labor is about $300 per panel, assuming no major dents that will take significant time to fix. From there you have paint (expensive), consumables (tape, paper, bondo, two sided tape, etc) Then you have the time to remove and reinstall all trim / moldings, mirrors, lights, antenna, etc. I think a full paint job was 5 to 6K IIRC. Mine was significantly less, but I got the friend discount. That's likely ARP's lube....

Haha!! That's the man behind the paint job! It was painted in his garage the first time, then done at the dealership he works for this time. He wasn't overly joyed about having to take a picture with it. He loves the truck though and takes extra care when working on it to make it as perfect as possible. I just can't believe how shiny it is. It's like looking in a blue mirror.

That's a big fat negative. When they cooked the truck it cracked worse too

Finally got it back from paint.

Hey now don't be linking Laramie's with Tradesman's..... In all reality though, I agree with your choice. The ONLY reason I purchased mine was the 10K below blue book. I was able to beat the guy down to the price he was going to get at the dealer for trade-in. Finding a 13+ with less than 40K and a decent price is very difficult.

Post 3. I bought another POS 2nd gen BTW your first mod should be a 2 Lo kit built by YOU

225K on the body, 70K on the trans, 15K on the clutch, 35K on the motor (all in miles). Doesn't get the best mileage, but gets 15 around town and 18-19 on the highway.

I think it's time for you to head over to to the 4th gen section and make a "Nick's 4th Gen" thread so we can watch you start tearing things up

Harsh.... But race truck ahahahaha! Anyway, congrats Nick - I'm sure you'll enjoy it! BTW the new autos, even the 68, is a boss in the mountains with a trailer While I say that, I still love to row some gears and I'm sure you will too!

Maybe it has a software update? Either way when it goes in they'll take care of the shifter recall and fix the pan. They should check everything over while it's in. I took your advice and drove it to work - it didn't seem to change the DEF usage much. Maximum DPF pressure differential was 1.09psi at 2700rpm and WOT - so it seems the exhaust is pretty clean. I did watch the rail pressure bouncing much closer both on the drive up and the drive home (50 miles each way) The rail pressure only bounces for the first 20min or so of driving. It doesn't seem to be related to engine temp in any was as it was up to 195 in less than 10min. I also noticed it is the ECM is calling for that pressure bounce. It peaks at 26106.8 then drops. No as time goes along, the "low" side of the pressure bounce gets lower and lower until it stops calling for the peak pressure. I'll start digging through the maps to see if I can find a reason the ECM is calling for it.

Both. Just looking through the forums. Hmmm I'm not sure if mine is out of calibration or what. My hay hauler drags around a 30 foot tandem dual gooseneck with 300 bales of hay on it averaging 11mpg or so and he uses less than I do. 250 mile trip this saturday with this trailer through the winding mountains. 13.5mpg, which isn't too bad with the weight and terrain. For reference, the last trip I took with a trailer half the length and only two snowmobiles I only got 12.5mpg. To me this says the EGR alone is decreasing mileage. (More of a reason to delete!) So unplugging the EGR has failed me haha. Sunday I took the snowmobiles to the car wash and couldn't get full boost and power was obviously down. Boost would spike to 20psi then back down to 17 - 18psi. So I'll plug it in until the warranty stuff is fixed and delete it.

I've seen some very nasty looking intakes. I guess I'll find out how bad it is when I delete it.... or when the grid heater bolt drops and ruins a piston. I did fill it (2 gallon jug) until it was overflowing and it still seemed to come down fast. I'm not sure what determines how much is injected.

You're just cleaning the carbon off. Nothing to worry about there. If you do start to push above 1250 and near 1300, drop a gear, keep the converter locked, and keep pushing. Above 2k will help keep the egts down.

What are you considering "high" for egts? What RPM are you running at? What mods are done to the truck? Or is it stock?

Everything seems to be fine. I've only put 100 miles or so on it since unplugging it though. This one mostly sits... I think I've put 2K on it since I bought it in October. I'm curious to see if the mileage will increase at all considering the EGR is very active - 37% or so while at cruize, 60%+ while idling, and 8-10% while towing. It has been drinking def pretty fast.... I'm not sure what its deal is but I'll see if it changes with the EGR unplugged

If it is regen, it should be passive as I haven't seen a message about regen yet. I wouldn't think it's in passive regen 100% of the time though. (It's done this since I plugged the RaceMe in.) It was doing this before I pulled the EGR plug as well, so I know it's not that. I'll post it over on CF and see if they have any idea what's going on?

Hmm. I'm curious if it's normal for the rail pressure to bounce from 15K to 26K. As long as the engine is being pushed by the trans it jumps to 26K then drops to 15K then back to 26K (in the matter of 1 second or less) over and over until it drops to idle then sits at 6K or so.

Negative.... Waiting to get the 2nd gen back from paint before this one can go in for the pan gasket. If I delete it they'll void the warranty and won't fix the pan. I did however unplug the EGR so that crap would stop going in the motor. It threw a CEL, but I've yet to notice any other effects - power seems the same, DEF usage seems the same, no active regens, etc. I still need to buy an EGR delete kit, WARP tuning license, RaceMe license, race pipes or full exhaust, gut the CCV filter and re-route it to the ground, etc. In the meantime the 2nd gen is sucking money for its body work. @AH64ID have you ever watched the rail pressure on one of these 4th gens when coasting / engine braking?

Only looks. The stock horn flows more than enough for anyone on this forum

The 12V definitely looks lower. I'll have to call and see if someone can measure it for me.

I'm assuming you're talking about Wade? I thought he had a 24V pusher... or XDP or something.

Blasphemy! The last time I asked you said IDK. Hopefully they're getting the new hood on with the stocker in place haha.

I don't believe so. I went through the dash setup when I first bought it and don't remember it being in there. I'm curious now though, so I'll check and grab some pictures for @Me78569 while I'm at it.

When the truck has a DEF issue, it'll pop up with a message that you have 200 miles until it goes into a 5mph limp mode. Now if you keep the truck running it'll keep going past 200 without an issue. If you shut it down, it could get stuck in limp mode.

Unfortunately I don't think it matters how many smart people get together to try and solve the problem. An EGR is an EGR - they'll always decrease efficiency and fill the intake with soot. The rest of the exhaust system might be okay for now. It seems people with 2013+ have many less issues than the 07.5-09 and even the 10-12 model years. I've read the EGR is open a lot less on the 2013+, but after having a monitor and seeing mine open 30+% at almost all times I'm not convinced that information is correct. I think if the manufactures can get rid of the EGR and work on increasing the reliability of the rest of the exhaust system things will be pretty decent. Until then, those of us who don't want to deal with "200 miles until 5mph" will delete.