TFaoro

Belt may not be an option with the Fluidampr. I think electric is going to be my best bet. Holly or Aeromotive? Does it matter? Reliability in mind! Looks like I'll be digging back into the sending unit. Ugh. Sweet - Thanks. I'm working on finding one and a cable. Okay @Me78569, figure 1-310 or page 12 of the PDF: https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2000Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=252 I know I'll need #4 and #5 for sure. Do you think I'll need 9? I can build a bracket to hold it myself.

New injectors showed up from Infinite Performance (6x.013 sac) - Hopefully they were worth the 3 or 4 month wait! I bought two filter heads, a Donaldson water separator, Donaldson 3 micron filter, lots of fittings, and 20 feet of 1/2in hose from @Vulcan. That should show up today - I want the filtration system on before I put the injectors in. I'll build my own bracket to hold the filter heads - either under the bed or back by the transfer case somewhere. @jlbayes - Let's talk lift pumps. I've read a lot about the A1000 and I seem to keep finding the inlet needs to be at least 5/8.... Have you heard the same? Are there any other "Big Boy" pumps I should be looking into that are reliable? I need it to keep up and be reliable!! As for regulators, Fass, Aeromotive, Fuel Lab, etc - Who's best, or does it matter? @Me78569 don't forget about me! I'll get you a cruise control actuator soon. Will you need the truck to do testing?

So I spoke with a dealer yesterday, and they said that it sounds fuel related. They seemed very persistent about air getting into the fuel somehow, so I'm going to replace all of the soft lines and all of the clamps today. The dealer said nothing about the hydraulic system being able to cause it. A guy on a skid-steer forum seems to think there's an "Idle surge screw" on these as well, so I'll do some research on that.

It dampens the surge, but does not eliminate it.

I believe one pump is for the boom system and the other is for the drive system - I'll look again one of these days. As for adjustment, are you talking the relief valves or?? I haven't messed with hydraulic systems much. It is curious how it only does it when the engine is cold though. The hydraulic system stays cool much longer than the engine, so it seems like more of an engine problem.

So the pump timing is adjusted by adding or removing shims from between the pump and block It's cooled by engine oil. @Mopar1973Man

It has 4 individual external injection pumps and 4 injectors like a 12v. I'll try and get on the valve lash though.

It's very drastic though, not like a little lope. I do know the lash needs done though - as well as the timing BELT (Dumb idea IMO)

Hey guys I figured I'd post this here and see if anyone had some thoughts. I bought a Gehl 5640 skid steer with the BF4M2011 turbo diesel engine. When I start it, it idles perfectly smooth for 2-3 seconds then begins to surge. As I rev it up when cold it still surges until the rpms are over half throttle. After 20min or so of running when the engine is up to temp the engine surge goes away at all rpms. So far I've checked all of the fuel lines and replaced the lift pump. Does this sound like a governor issue? Shutdown solenoid? Fuel pressure? Springs on the throttle cable or rack?

Here's an operators / maintenance manual for an 853. Should be very similar. I'll keep looking for a service manual. http://www.ci.moraine.oh.us/pdf/Streets/Bobcat Operator Manual.pdf Pretty soon you'll be wondering how you ever lived without it!!

Looks like a nice little machine! 1 - Not sure?? Other than keeping everything in the center of its travel. 2 - The one side creeping is normal if the stick is out of adjustment as well. There should me a centering mechanism that keeps the stick in the "middle" of its range when you aren't touching it. You should be able to adjust the linkages to make it stop moving. Since you have some slop it might need replaced or at the least tightened, then adjusted properly. Not sure about your idle. Mine lopes at idle, but is fine once its warm. I haven't found anything that could cause that, and was told 1 - the machine isn't made to run at idle, and 2 - If it isn't at operating temp it likely won't run right either. Does it have removable skid plates? If it does, pull them and power wash it for a couple hours. It'll help you find leaks / issues quickly with everything clean. Post more pictures!

So you're saying the efficiency will be seen in the amount of fuel injected regardless of timing - Hmm. If you get this setup well it could really help with tuning timing for MPG purposes.

I like it. I'm skeptical, but I like it. I wonder how bad different timing will throw it off? Say you calibrate everything for cruising empty, then hook a big trailer up. Could the timing difference make that big of a change in MPG vs what it's calibrated at?

Check the thermostat housing as well. I've seen them start oozing from a bad thermostat seal as well.

That's an important clamp!! Make sure you don't have deep wear grooves in the lines.

With the CORRECT fluid gear rollover isn't really there with a SMF. Lots of good recommendations in here. I am curious why you dislike the dual disc? Just don't need to hold the power or other reasons?

My Napa seems fine thus far (It outlasted South Bend's). You do have to put the clutch in further to disengage though. I'm not sure if it'll be the same for your transmission.

3 that's what you remember! I have no luck with this thing. Yes, they are custom Sheid lines. The #4 clamp on CRs likes to come loose and cause that. It's so weird how it broke right above the pump. I can only assume bad metal.

Just to keep this updated, I did install a new Mopar fan clutch (Works perfect), a new PS pump, and a new hydroboost. Brakes do seem to work a bit better, and there's only a touch of noise coming from the PS pump when turning at 1100ish rpm. The trip to Arizona wasn't fun. We left around 8pm and around 3:30 to 4:00am blew the #1 injection line just above where it seals to the injection pump. With no options and another 5ish hours to go I decided to just run it on 5cyl and let it blow fuel everywhere. I had plenty of power, but things were running pretty hot. The smell of fuel in the cab was miserable but we pushed through and made it to our destination. The guy I bought the skid steer from had a 24v sitting there that hadn't run in a while, so we "borrowed" his #1 and #4 injection lines. It took about an hour of bending the #1 line to fit the Ppump and head well enough to seal. Once that was on, all was good. Tons of towing power, engine stayed cool when we weren't climbing 6% grades at 50mph, etc. Thanks @trreed for providing SOME company along the trip.

Nut torque is 350 ft-lb if I remember correctly. I torqued mine to 460ish I used a couple big ratchet straps to hold it on a work bench, then had someone sit on the far end of the table. Slid it into 2 gears at once so it wouldn't turn and cranked it down. It wasn't too hard.

Yes, I'm sure it's when the hydroboost started acting weird. It probably sent something downstream to the box. I'll look at rebuilding it, but it is getting up there in mileage. Might be best to get all new bearings and everything in it.

Correct. Even came in a Mopar box.

I flushed everything before installing the new stuff. Nope, I bought a gallon of Napa conventional power steering fluid.

Had them for days and still haven't put them on

Update - I put a reman hydroboost and a new power steering pump on. Right away I noticed the brakes were easier to push. I've still got a really slight groan when turning around 1100-1200 rpm, but not nearly as bad as it was. There may be a blue top box coming in the near future. Before the swap, if the truck idled for 30sec or so the lines were hot, now after a 10 min drive I can keep my hands on them without an issue. I'm sure it'll get hotter during the long drives, but it does seem better.