TFaoro

New fan clutch on. It looks exactly like the OEM one, and it works PERFECT. It took 1/4 mile for it to disengage after putting it on, and locked up half way while hammering on it. I have no doubt it'll fully lock like it's supposed to when things start getting toasty. (I'll verify this when driving home tonight) Thanks everyone for the comments.

I've never removed the reservoir. At my local Napa it's 50 for a reman pump with reservoir or over 100 for one without. I think the hydroboost is plugged making the pump work extra hard and burning it out. I don't think my luck is so bad I've gotten 5 bad remans. Plus it all started after having to lay on the brakes super hard with 20k on the back.

Thanks guys. I'm going to replace my pump (for the 6th time) and the hydroboost and was wondering how hot they "should" be. I'll make sure to flush everything really well before installing.

Thanks! Can we get a couple more? @trreed @jlbayes @Mopar1973Man @Me78569 @JAG1 Spill the beans gentlemen!!

Hey guys, I'd just like a quick poll of how hot the lines running in / out of your hydroboost are after driving for a bit. Thanks!

@Mopar1973Man is the fan clutch actually produced by Cummins? It does have a Mopar part # number stamped on it.

If Nick let his hair go and smoked, he just might look like that

Morristown, just northwest of Phoenix My local dealer could get OEM no problem. It was $260 plus the ride. PDP has them Genos says it's OEM, and it'll be easy to tell since I still have my old one and will be able to compare. Their image is of an OEM clutch.

And with my luck, it's always bad! I might be heading to Arizona here soon to pick up a skid steer, so I really need the fan to function properly. Otherwise I'll have to throw a locked up one on it to keep cool.

I'll gladly pay it. Between two different parts stores and 5+ clutches I'm sick of it. My Original clutch won't lock-up anymore even at temps 220+, and every other one I've gotten will not unlock. If I have to spend $200 every 200K miles for a good fan clutch, I'm fine with that.

Can't believe I didn't think of them. Thanks @KATOOM!! https://www.genosgarage.com/product/52028894_ramcummins_fan_clutch/engine-replacement-parts-2

Pure diesel power says they have the original mopar clutch. I'll call and see if they actually have it.

There are certain bags that are made to mount over your factory overloads. I don't remember which, but if you call the manufacturer of the bags, I'm sure they can give you the right part number. As for the GN hitch, the only solution I have found includes cutting the bag mount and modifying it to work. AFAIK there are no bags that mount to the axle like the 3rd gen bags do.

Bringing this back to life.... Anyone know where I can buy the factory Mopar fan clutch other than the dealer?? I ordered one from factorymoparparts.com, but I got an email this morning saying they were not in stock and they were refunding my money. I don't want to go to the dealer since they're $100+ over online factory clutches.

It didn't idle different, you just wanted it to

Another HUGE consideration (especially if you'll spend a lot of time in it) is the type of controls Hand / Foot T bar Hand Joystick etc. I spent a lot of time in one of CAT's biggest track machines (diesel). It was nice and comfortable, but I was less than pleased with the speed and the hydraulic system. It did not have the power it should have for weighing 10k lbs. Started and ran well, just seemed 'lazy' This one had joystick controls which I liked, but heard they were expensive if the electronics went bad. I spent a decent amount of time in a small Bobcat (gas) and was happy with it's performance, but it wasn't as stable as I like. The biggest downfall of these is the price. They're ridiculous around here This one had hand / foot controls. I didn't like them I spent a decent amount of time in a smaller (gas) case and had no complaints other than the controls which weren't the easiest to be smooth. I spent a ton of time in a decent sized gehl (60hp diesel) and was very pleased with it. It was a very stable machine no matter what terrain I was working in. It started in negative temperatures without a problem and had way more than enough power. It could lift way more than it should too. This one had T bar controls, which were easy to operate for many hours at a time.

Mine was 6800 W/O me in it. I did have a tool box though. If yours is stock I would "guess" around 6500.

Does your lift pump circuitry have a relay? You've got two options - 1 put the pump on a switch or - 2 find a fuse that isn't hot when you're in ACC and run a fuse tap.

Do you remember where he got them?

Read it..... Interesting thread. Makes it hard to want a 5.9 CR considering the BS from multiple suppliers. From the sounds of it, there are no "budget" injectors that are reliable for a 5.9. I only have experience with Exergy (which are awesome btw) but I would hate to have some of the nightmares these other guys are having.

It's very obvious if you don't have enough - it'll have a nice vibration.

There should be 6 bolts. I think there are 2 above where you can't see. Manual and auto are interchangeable (other then input shaft on T case) and mine had 6. If you plan on dragging your truck over stuff, I definitely wouldn't. If you don't off-road it hard it sure can't hurt!

I've never seen anything bad about beads. My brother has them in his 33x12.5R20's and hasn't had an issue. Just make sure you put enough in.

Look in the part lookup tool, get the part number and do a google search. So I looked in the part lookup tool, and there are no "cam bolts". It's just a straight bolt that uses the two cam plates to adjust it. Page 32 has all of the part numbers for the bolts. https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/2002Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=32

I would be more scared of the skid plate getting bent up and cracking the housing. I'm not sure how it mounts on a 3rd gen so I can't say for sure though. I'll have to grab a picture of how my NP271 sits