TFaoro

Put a steering box on it first so it'll go straight with the compounds......

Did they say they would charge you less? The shop I had mine done at specifically wanted them in to ensure they didn't get mixed up.

It's a fuel pressure problem It made 500 right?

Take it to the track... you'll know better there anyway.

Are they going to be able to keep traction while on the dyno? That's going to be a pain if they can't pull it down hard enough.

or when the primary lights it'll blow the trans apart!

Settle down Tater..... @jlbayes can probably talk more to the injector / piston dirtiness.

Oh well aren't you just special So are you going to blow a rod through the side of the block this weekend??

Uhhhh you sure? I started mine without the trans....Doesn't the flex plate have the teeth on it for the starter?

I just wanna know how..... It's rather impressive. How much power will it be able to hold??

@jlbayes but does it move??

60hp is what he has in it. The spray pattern looks concerning, unless you wiped some pistons and didn't wipe some. I would stay away from ebay for turbo parts unless it's a reputable company selling on ebay. Are you going with more power? Bigger injectors? Currently having excessive heat issues? Mine were much worse, but they're still working for now.

The turbo looks rough. It depends on how bad it falls apart as you take it apart. Hopefully the housing is salvageable.

I would suspect you have something going on with one of these ^^^^^^

If you start the radiator draining then pull the thermostat housing and thermostat it'll drain the block as the radiator drains. you only need it below the head anyway.

Bottom driver side of the radiator is the drain. It twists and pulls out. I would replace the seals no matter what. If the guides look fine I wouldn't mess with them. Mine were still tight (Within spec) at 188K - that was determined by the machine shop though.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/GG10FV/engine-rebuild-kits-2 https://www.genosgarage.com/product/gould-vprk-9602/engine-rebuild-kits-2 I would look on ebay for the reseal kit though. I think you can get them for around 25ish.

@jlbayes is a 3/8 return enough for the injectors and pressure regulator with an A1000 feeding it?

Check the price on a new head from Cummins. If I remember right it's less than that. I wouldn't just have it surfaced though. You'll regret it if something goes wrong. You do not have to deck the block to do it "right." If it's flat, then you're just wasting money. Mine was left untouched even though I had the block machined. I'd check the block with a machinist square, and if it's good don't worry about the bottom end. (Assuming no scoring on the cylinder walls)

I wonder where Weston is going to set mine.... BTW do his come with and "install kit" or do I need to buy those separately?

It looks like it. You'll really be able to tell what you need when you tear it down.

Just remove all of them. I kept them in order so I could put them back the same, but I doubt it matters. When you put the back ones in torque them to the 89in-lbs like the front

Go to Cummins for the gaskets. There are only 2 "types" of studs for ours, so likely they are the ARP 2000's. (The 625's are over a grand, so I doubt it) ARP torque spec is 125 ft-lb I don't really see the need for O rings at your power level. You could, but I don't see the point. You should make sure the deck is flat as well. (Use a machinists square) No. You can't get the head high enough in the rear with the studs in. Make sure you check how tight that stud it's leaking around too. You may just be able to tighten it.

DOR or bust. The shop is open if you need to come down and use it.

At least I didn't go Wade mode