TFaoro

Timken are 175 on Amazon and Rock Auto sells timken as well. That would cost less than 500

What type of connector is it??

Whatever happens to be in the grease gun that day Axle grease would probably be best. Through the ABS sensor hole.

My driver side is still factory. Passenger side was replaced at 130k ish and has been leaking grease since I bought it with 160k. Put grease in them and they tend to last longer....

Those housings are expensive! $550 new. I picked up the 14cm housing for $350

I tried to tell him... F the ECM. All it needs to do is read the sensors and you're good. There was a full kit on FB for 2K, including the pump. Should have jumped on it.

It doesn't take much time to pull an axle and look. They're floating axles, so it shouldn't be hard. From what I've read it's either a 32 or a 35 spline, and there's no way to figure it out.

Got the manifold pulled and the hole tapped for a plug / DP gauge. Pulled the spacer off the secondary to put it on my 14cm housing. This one wasn't sealing from the crack. I was hoping to sell it but O well. I have a new paperweight! Once I get the 14cm housing painted I'll slap it back together.

Your truck is MAD!!! She doesn't like to travel the same trip every day... At least they're pretty easy. Maybe your ABS will start working right again though.

62/65/12 62/68/12 If you jump into a 71+mm turbine it's going to be laggy. Honestly it sounds like you want stock spool with the power of a larger turbo. That usually equals compounds.

Power goals? Truck use? (Pull trailers? Race? Put Put?) How important is spool? How important is top end power? Can't help much until you tell us what you want from the truck.

ATS you should run away from anyway. Overpriced purple paint. Remember you only hear the bad reviews online, usually not the good ones. @Mopar1973Man seems happy with his. Either way make sure it has a fully splined main shaft and the 5th gear fix.

We don't really have injector rattle. Just a noisy engine as timing increases. CRs on the other hand can be pretty noisy.

I hope he has a good turbo for you to think about using. I don't have much knowledge on "larger" singles. I know for a fact he will tell you to run away from Tater, and I'm in agreement with that.

@jlbayes might have something to say on the subject....

Mine would do that with bigger injectors too. Not enough heat in everything for it to burn it properly. Typically below 400 on the egts and mine would pop.

You should be able to take your vin number to the dealer and get a build sheet with all of the specs.

@trreed has some center caps. BTW none of your pictures at the top are working for me????

If you actually assess what failed on the pumps it's impossible to make a correlation to the tuner. FYI @Me78569 and I were running the same tuning longer than anyone in here. His pump has more miles than mine and has yet to skip a beat. THE TUNING HAS NOT CHANGED!!!!! Literally instead of the tuning picking from a pre-programmed number, it picks from a user defined number. As for my failure... again, no. Maybe if I ran it at 3700 every day 20 times per day it could have been an issue?? That wasn't the case though. It saw over 3500rpm 20 times or so in its life. There are 4K boxes out there that people have been running for years with no issue. There are other programmers out there (redline for one) that let rpms go much higher than the standard adrenaline can. People have been using those for years as well without pump issues. To sum it up, NO. There is no way the quad caused all 3 failures. The likely reasons were Moparman - end of service life Trevor - AC noise (pump might not have been bad after all too.....) Me - bad rebuild

I've done some playing with the pump and AFC live to get the truck to run the way I want it to. Timing bumped by 4*. In theory this would be 24*, but I'm assuming I didn't quite have it at TDC when I timed it. It spools a touch slower, but egts are down and power seems up. Pre boost screw backed out by 2.5 turns (started at 3 turns) AFC live adjusted to max egts at 1200* and only lightly haze on harder acceleration. Other than right off idle, it's just as clean as the quad was. Off idle it hazes just a touch, but not bad.

Another thing to consider is the type of failure. If @trreed's did fail, it was the PSG. @Mopar1973Man's was the timing piston getting stuck. Mine was the internals of the pump grenading. 3 COMPLETELY different type of failures The only one that bewilders me is mine. Died for no reason. Moparman's was well past due. Trevor's was fed with a stock pump for a LONG time while he had a smarty on it. If I can get 22 with 7x.013's, lifted front end, big bumper, bigger tires, etc. I have no doubt you could clear 25-28 easily with 150's

Personally, I would buy new ones and let them wear to the cam properly. While it may look like there is no wear, each one has worn a little different to each cam lobe.

Pick up a set of 150's and run without the wiretap. I bet you would have close to the same power!

Lots done this weekend. First, these 5 things showed up. Tappet cover, two -12 orb to -12 AN male, and two -12AN to -12 pushloc. $400 bucks there.... I pulled the pump and all of the other junk out of the way. The 12V tappet cover had blown out about 6 inches along the bottom. I didn't know that much oil ran down by there.... This thing is sexy. Good thing I made an ECM mount, because there isn't any way to mount it with this cover. There also isn't a mount for the fuel line at the rear of the head / pump, so I used a piece of flat strap and bolted it to one of the breather pieces and to the fuel line holder. You can kinda see the mount at the back of this picture. All buttoned up. I got it running and there's no oil leaks! Took it for a test drive, came back home and the pinion seal decided it didn't want to live anymore The nut on the pinion was loose enough to take off with a 1/4in drive rachet -__- Getting the yoke off was a PITA. Beat on it, pried on it with a bar, beat on it while prying on it with 2 bars and no beans. I eventually got it off by using a straight puller (used to pull the drums on CAT bulldozers) ran grade 8 1/4in bolts through two of the bolt holes for the u joint straps and tightening it. We'd tighten it just about as tight as we could get it, then beat on it with hammers until it came loose. It took 10x doing that for it to finally pop off. Then the seal was a bear to drive out.... $90 later for the seal got it all back together. So out for the next test drive - I got it to 40psi or so of boost and blew something. Come to find out I didn't tighten the back left corner intake plenum bolt and it blew the whole back of the seal out. So I decided eff it I'll drive it the way it is until my tunnel ram shows up. I took it on a 150mile trip (stopped by to see @Me78569 for a bit.) The wind was so bad on flat ground I was holding 25psi of boost to hold 80mph with the huge leak. I got on it hard once and let out when boost hit 65. I'm not sure if the boots will stay on or my manifold plug will stay in. It drives very nice!! I still have a bit of pre-boost smoke to tune out and I need to chat with Power Driven Diesel about AFC live to get it dialed in. Also if anyone knows how to make my truck lug down better when letting off the clutch I'd appreciate it! If rpms get blow 600 it dies every time. (idle is at 850-900) Is that just the way it is??? My dad's 12v will lug to 400ish or lower and doesn't seem to care.

If you don't need to touch them yet, don't. Rounding one off is a bad idea. 19mm and 3/4 are the same, and that's probably why they skipped it. I'd try to find a 3/4 line wrench if they're that tight.