TFaoro

I don't think it was the injectors' fault. I'm wondering if I somehow got dirt in them, or possibly the pump was spitting shavings / metal out as it grenaded itself. Not sure where you've seen issues? I haven't seen anything lately.

Just got off the phone with DAP. 3 of the injectors have issues, and 1 of them has really bad issues. It might need a new nozzle. Wonder what would cause that?? They don't have more than 20K on them.

I'm hoping the Ppump will stop it from emitting it's curse! Let us know when you're around You won't hurt the gasket with the stock turbo and realistic timing.

sorry about that. @Me78569 check out the log.

What level(s) is it surging on? A few things I see: Why do you have timing reduction at 5* and 100%??? You definitely don't need that, especially with the stock turbo and bigger injectors. Your fuel stretch is huge.... I would back that down to 12-1500, especially for towing.

Maybe send them back together and see if they'll write you a check or put it on your CC or something so we don't have to pay double shipping.

Mine did as well, but I wouldn't want a $1,000 pump bouncing around in the back of my truck. Having parts like that just sitting never seems to end well. If anything, find a used one for cheap that'll get you by in a pinch and let it rattle around in the back.

He can use my core to get an SO pump, and I'll sell his HO as a core to them.

Big injectors FTW!! Nick is right. A little bit big on the injectors with a quad are a dream to drive. You can always back fueling down with canbus to keep temps in check.

The tappets rest on the cam and are guided by the block. So when you pull the pushrods it might lift the tappet up, but it'll fall right back down onto the cam where it normally rests. I'm with @Me78569 on this one though. If nothing is wrong with the head, leave it on.

Well starting a week from this Friday I'll have a week to get it together. That means I need all parts here before then as it takes at least 3 day to ship things to BFE. Hopefully most of the parts will be here this week and early next week. I'll make the Vulcan order today to adapt my fuel supply. I'll also make the $2K order from Carl's too.

Try to break it while it's under warranty!

Run from that one....

No worries! I'll figure it out eventually. For now I have the cad locked into the "locked" position so I can shift on the fly.

I'll stick with old school trucks. Yeah if you follow that link it'll tell you exactly how to make a 2 wheel low kit!

It would, but I'm trying to build something that actuates both directions.

SO VP time... If you're strapped for cash there's a lot of used pumps for sale, but you never know how long it'll last. I'd recommend new, but it depends on what the bank says.

Click ^^^^^ link.

There is. The factory block on the transfer case has vent, vacuum, then a line to the open side of the actuator and a line to the close side of the actuator. I need to eliminate that block though so I can engage it without putting it in 4wd.

Dealership puts that on so you don't void your warranty. Yours is a first for me.

Got it. http://dieseldatabase.com/two-wheel-drive-low/?id=10 This won't work though, because there is no vent. Without that, the actuator can't move.

You can just copy and paste it in. If not, my email is tyfaoro@gmail.com

If you could find a link I'd really appreciate it! I "think" this is the same concept as the 2low, but I'd have to see the schematics.

It wasn't the factory VP. It had the in-tank retrofit, meaning it had died once.

No, I'll probably keep the actuator. I'd like to implement one of these two drawings. I just haven't searched for what valves are available. My issue is different though. My transfer case does not have a syncro in it, so it's impossible to put in in 4wd while moving. I'd like to be able to actuate the front axle during the winter that way I have 4wd on demand during the winter. I would prefer this one! Single switch.