TFaoro

@Me78569 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We need info!!!!!!! Make sure he sends you what the the tune is next time so we can try and help tweak the tune..... if you want the help that is.

Just messing with ya on the tire size. I know you're going for 30mpg, and you need every bit of rotational mass off. What does Nick have your level 3 set to percentage wise? 150 I hope around 20 or so psi?

Hmmm.... can Nick bump the 0-3psi boost a bit? I'd try to tow using lvl 3 if you can. It has the most control. And yes, slightly larger tires will definitely help keep the traction. Easy to spin pizza cutters ;)

Correct. It like loads parameters randomly causing smoke puffs and sometimes surging.

You could take your foot out of it I'm sorry for giving bad info guys.... my buddy ended up not getting that kit.... I just asked him. He was going to then got a different one instead SORRY!!!!!!! This is the one he got. http://dieselautopower.com/holset-genuine-hx35-rebuild-kit-3575169/ Gah I feel like an idiot.

I've got a 99 ram 1500 that I picked up for cheap.... someone will want to slap me, but I paid 300 bucks for it with a blown motor My neighbor's daughter kept running it without coolant and burned up the 5.9L V8. The junkyard was going to give him $400 for it but he had to drag it over there. I asked to go picking on it before he took it down for my 02, and he said if you get it off my property in the next 10min you can have it for $300. My dad and I have been indecisive on what to do with it, but now I want to drop a motor in it to bring to school. I don't want my mint 02 getting stolen again. I could care less about the 1500 Anyway, does anyone know what years of 5.9L will work in this truck? I've got a lead on CL for a motor with 110K with a Tcase for $700, but I don't know if it'll work in this truck or not. Thanks in advance! EDIT: @Mopar1973Man I'm tagging you because you have one similar!

Condition of the shocks? You'd be surprised what a damper does for it. Idk if they are necessary, but it definitely keeps the steering gear from being shock loaded as bad. How old is the "new" track bar? Not uncommon to see them fail in 10K

Can you get yours to cool off that much in 100* weather? I've literally let mine idle 10 min and it'll still be sitting right about 300. If the A/C is on it doesn't go below 330. During the summer I leave my turbo timer at 330 because it simply doesn't cool off any further. Winter I set it at 300. BTW for those looking at the quad it doesn't shut down until egts hit 10* below your set point.

I've still got that 01 ram 1500 auto sitting at home with a blown engine. Considering dropping an engine in it and using it for a farm truck to do the running around and keeping the diesel for pulling trailers and trips. Now to find an engine....

I wouldn't as that defeats the purpose. With the egt probe you don't even have to look at temps before you leave, and if they're at 600 you have to sit and wait until they're down to 450 before shutting it off..... defeats purpose of turning key off and walking away. I think that was only put in there for the people who don't run the egt probe. See my comment above on placement of the probe. EGT is way better because it doesn't matter if the temps are 1000 or 275. If you shut the key off it'll shut off when it's ready, not based on time. When it's 20 deg outside you don't need 1.5 minutes to cool down, so you're just wasting fuel. Otherwise you'll always be adjusting the time for the ambient conditions, adjusting for driving style, wasting fuel, or shutting off hot. IMO egt is best, but in the end it's up to you!

Doesn't matter which. You will have a bigger difference between the two gauges than you will have in the actual temperatures. I tested it.

Buddy just bought one from here. Told him to make sure it's genuine holset, and it is. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Holset-Cummins-Turbo-Rebuild/dp/B00M9NJ1VK

Would you need wiretap to fuel? I was using level 2 with the fueling cut off at 15psi. Keeps my egts very low, and less power saves the drivetrain wear with bigger loads. What are your thoughts @CSM before we completely take this thread off track.

I really enjoy it towing. No matter how hard you put your foot down it stays clean, and with everything set right you can just hold it to the floor on the hills and not have to worry about temps.

You forgot about asking the wife between each step Anyway, maybe you need to drive mine again.... with the quad. I gotta grow some grapes to drive it again though.

OR injectors, air, and quad to keep ALL of the smoke away :D

Quadzilla..... Anywho, yes it'll make a huge difference. Especially when the engine warms up. Makes night and day difference for the primary. So, I really don't think you'll be able to tell a difference between the 72 and 75mm comp wheels with the tight housing. Either way I think it'll suit your needs perfectly.

Define no smoke for me.... do you want to stab it to the floor and have zero smoke, or just roll into it with no smoke?

Where are you seeing that??? It's not in this article... Negative ghost rider, freight is free! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Opti-Lube-Summer-Blend-Gallon-Diesel-Fuel-Additive-/232045537407?hash=item3606fde87f:g:bcYAAOSw-itXrJiX&vxp=mtr

Careful, I did say the summer blend not XDP 1 gallon of opti-lube summer blend costs 75.95 on ebay. It can treat 2,560 gallons of diesel, equating that to $0.02966 per gallon. If you round up, that's 3 cents per gallon where the 2 stroke is about 10 cents. You can effectively cut your costs by 1/3. Given the numbers in the table, I bet the HFFR score would be about the same when 2 stroke is added at 1oz per gallon.

The factory tow hooks on these are very simple, and I'm confident that a competent shop could make the mounting bracket with ease, then you'd just need to source some hooks, drill, and bolt them up. Here's a picture of a factory set if it helps anyone.

Thank you for getting that setup @Mopar1973Man! I'm sure there will be plenty of ideas, we just need to keep it hush hush

No such thing as in in-cylinder EGR. What you may be referring to is the cam design. The exhaust valve closes before the piston is at TDC, keeping some of the exhaust in.... emissions reasons. There are 3 injection events, which are pre - main - post. Either way that shouldn't effect any sort of additive. Not sure if it'll plug it up or not. Most people remove them anyway. There's no sensor behind it, so you don't even need programming. Heck my dad's 12V had a cat... half plugged at 50K when he took the exhaust apart and hollowed it out. Either way I wouldn't run it. I'd rather run Optilube summer blend. Better lubricity and waaaaaaay cheaper than running 2 stroke.

You're correct. The ATF burns horribly and leaves tons of carbon buildup on the tips of the injectors. (maybe valves to, but can't confirm that) Not good for any diesel. You're a bit off on your years. There was no EGR or DPF until 07.5, which is when the 6.7 came out. Before then all they had was a cat. 03-04.5 had a slightly different piston and injector design, and slightly less power than the 04.5+ (305 vs 325 for the HO) 2 stroke is fine in all 5.9's at half the ratio we put it in. 0.5oz per gallon. I wouldn't run it on a truck with a DPF in it though for fear of plugging it faster and causing it to regen more often.

Yep, hook up the other reader. Hate to say it, but it sounds like a VP issue.