TFaoro

I've got 25-30 psi of boost at 1700rpm - Just stoking the fire!! Yes I do understand a split gear between 3rd and 4th was a great idea and is ideal for towing. My point is even with very heavy loads it isn't hard to compensate for. The extra money just isn't worth it to me. As for shifting, every one I have driven has been slightly notchy, then when a big boy clutch is put in they are terrible and don't like to go into gear. There's a million threads about hard shifting 5600s and many come after a big clutch is installed. I don't remember if it was the case that was different or something to that effect. Should be able to google it and find out. No. Gears do not need changed. It's the material on the syncro that wears out, not the cone on the gear itself.

It is not possible to change the input shaft to the larger version. Syncros shouldn't be a problem. You just have to buy the ones you want. Yes, I have driven a 5600 and I hate how they shift all notchy. Taking the truck up to 2800 or so doesn't hurt anything and makes pulling out of 4th nice and easy. Of course it would take a lot of weight to need that.

Until you tear it apart and figure out exactly what happened and what's destroyed, I don't think anyone can answer that.

Build what? Need to be more specific. Incorrect.... The early 5600 is stuck with the small shaft.

I'm near Denver I know mountains. 28k+ through the mountains with no issues?? It really isn't that bad, but that's my thoughts. I'd never put an early 5600 back in anyway.

I'm not sure why everyone is bent on the 5600. I really like the 4500.... it's cheap, parts are avaliable, and it's pretty dang strong.

Glad to hear you made it home safe. While it's all apart I would check all tie rod ends (Don't forget pitman arm joint,) steering damper, track bar joints, and control arm bushings. I would also consider a steering brace while you're at it!

The nv5600 with the large input shaft didn't come out until the HO was released. If his truck is not a HO it does not have the larger shaft.

Exactly why I stayed away from the metal. The 96 still looks perfect with nothing worn.

No problem. I'm not sure about the drivelines?? Maybe from a V10 with the 4500 behind it. If you want I can measure mine.... I think reg cab long bed and ext cab short bed are the same length.

Because you have a 2000 the input shaft on the 5600 is the same size as a 4500. That means the flywheel and clutch will work just fine. If you can find a used 4500 it should bolt right into place. The only difference being the transmission mount (4500 is shorter) I THINK the input on the transfer case should be fine. For drivelines look in junk yards, u pull its, craigslist, ebay ect.

Thanks Nick. Here are pics of the screen. It's just window or sliding door screen from home depot. My dad's 12v has had it on it since new and the whole front still looks new! Hopefully I can keep this condenser that way! Got all packed up, checked every fluid and I'm ready to head out!

I loosen the crossover before torqing the hold down. Otherwise the injector could sit crooked.

Little bit of an update. I put a screen over the condensor / intercooler / radiator. It'll keep the bugs and rocks from getting wedged in the fins. I'll post up some pics of it eventually. I've done a decent amount of driving with it. Around 850 miles or to total and everything seems to be working well! Toninght and tomorrow I have a 300 mile or so round trip with the gooseneck stock trailer so that should help finish seating everything in. It won't be super heavy, but wandering through the mountains should do it some good.

Fill out your signature please Everything sounds good to go. She's not a Ford!

Sorry the video is sideways. The tst is NOT on. You can hear my brother ask if I kicked it on. I went all the way to 3200rpm on all shifts. You can see it lets out a puff of smoke in 3rd, then clears up for the rest of the run. It's nice being able to shift fast again without grinding!

Not yet, hopefully tomorrow. Well I got out tonight and changed the gasket between the timing case and vacuum pump. I also changed the seal between the vacuum pump and PS pump. Then I forgot to put the oil supply for the vacuum pump back on and pumped out 2.5 quarts of oil That was dumb but I got the mess cleaned up. I then took the intake horn and injection lines off. I cleaned them the same way I did last time, just much better this time. After doing that #1 and #2 still wanted to leak. I spent about an hour getting those two sealed up. I let the engine run for 10 min or so with me revving it up and down (didn't want constant rpm on the new motor or I would have used high idle) Then shut it off and waited another 10 min. There were no leaks and the engine isn't knocking like it was. I'm MUCH happier now I took it out for a drive after that. Man having the A/C back is NICE! I washed up the front end as best I could for the time being, but I'll have to do some more washing tomorrow with the big power washer. I really like it, but you have to be careful or it'll peel paint. 4,300 psi... I got a video going from 15 or so mph up to 100mph with the smarty still on level one. EGTs topped out at 1175. Hopefully I'll get it uploaded soon!

Yes, it can suck air into the system and cause it to hard start. I've never heard of it to this degree though.

Interesting.... You guys sure are good at getting me to spend money I'll take a look at it and see. I bet the synthetic oil flows even better through that media as well. I'm still on the fence with synthetic oil..... Those -10*F starts sure are rough

More flow usually means less filtering.... The napa is 13 bucks and the Donaldson is 11.62. By the time you add in shipping it costs more than the napa. You are correct on the fuel filter, it is cheaper there.

Part number - TWD PF7977 Link - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Fuel-Water-Separators-Filters-Baldwin-Filters/_/R-TWRPF7977_0486680330 After some searching looks like I should start ordering off Amazon.... they are 10 bucks cheaper!

I buy them from Napa, but I believe the person gets me the baldwin 5 micron filters. There's no way I'm replacing the VP, expecially since the injection lines started leaking again. It's been sitting for a couple days now.... I think I need to go drive it

There is only one bolt holding the cam sensor in place, check out the picture above. I findi it easier to take the two bolts out that hold the vacuum pump tight to the timing case and push it backwards. Then just get it from underneath.

What return lines do you have on it? Stock or???? Could be leaking at one of those connections. If not there then check the banjo at the back of the head, or the T where the return lines connect to go back to the tank.

It's called Raptor Liner I think they are 31.6 or somewhere in that area. Stock size for a 2012. Thank you though! Little update..... This thing has me really frustrated at the moment The bad: The truck has begun to knock again.... I look around and find #1 and #3 injector lines leaking at the crossover tube - injection line contact area. I'm now looking for a used set of lines to see if that'll clear things up. It was running really well for the short time the lines were sealed so.... not sure what else it could be. The good: Other than its annoying knocking, the engine seems to be running really well. It has almost no blowby coming from either tube and I've go just shy of 600 miles on it. I have thrown the smarty back on. I set it on level 1 with the timing on 3 and the rest of the parameters set to stock. Scary thing is the truck pulls harder on #1 than it ever did on #9 before the aftermarket parts. It really is impressive (to me anyway) I've just been very careful about smoke and have let the turbo spool before really getting after it. There is also zero smoke at WOT, not even a haze. I did a 0 - 95mph run and the max I saw on EGTs was 1175 while the ambient temp was 86*. Really shows how the cam has helped move the air on the top end. I've also noticed it's much harder to bark the turbo. Before I could let off hard at 10psi and 1600 rpms and the turbo would bark 3-4 times. Now it won't even do it once. I replaced the condenser tonight and got the A/C charged up (Along with pag oil of course.) After 5 min of idling and the fan clutch disengaged, the vents in the center were blowing 26* air. When it was 86* outside too! I've still got to replace the vacuum pump to timing case gasket, and the PS pump to vacuum pump seal. I'm hoping to get that either tomorrow or Wednesday but we'll see if there's any hay to be done. I'm hoping to get a few videos up if everyone would like to see.