TFaoro

Anyone have any experience with switching to synthetic after a break-in? I'm wondering just how many miles I should wait before I switch.

You will either need to have the entire wiring harness including the ecm from the 01, or you'll have to swap crank shafts. Here's some extra info if you haven't seen it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/460-yankneck696

Interesting combo... APPS voltage too low and Crankshaft position sensor signal. Possible A/C noise from the altenator... Possible both sensors are going bad... possible bad ground... I'd clear the codes and hope they don't come back until you get home

You might be right... that rocky mountain high! So a little update here. I picked up a set of 3rd gen 17in rims from a buddy. They are the steel ones that are chrome plated. I've got a set of 265/70/17 tires with about 1/4 tred and I'll be driving around 500 miles a week, so I don't want to wear out the nice Michelin tires. First pic are the current rims, second pic is the new ones. I'll post shots of the truck before and after. I like the ones that are on it more though... As for the intercooler it continues to leak. I MIGHT have found a used one out of a 12V for 100 bucks, but we'll see.

I wouldn't go through dodge. Everything they touch seems to break!

I would always overclutch... South Bend Dual Disc 3250

I'm dead on where you are with everything in my sig and 265/70/17 tires. You should fill out your signature for us!

I would recommend installing a relay that the ECM triggers so that the power being pulled by the pump does not run through the ECM. It's how Fass has their wiring kit made.

Those are expensive!! I can't justify spending 1200+ on an intercooler.... And yes I'm not much of a drinker. Every now and then with the guys, but it's rare!

It should ALWAYS flash a wait to start light no matter what the temperature... and yes ECMs are not cheap.

Do you have the lift pump running off of the ECM, or do you have the ECM running to a relay and the power for the pump coming from the battery?

If I remember correctly on mine there was a flat face that sat against the block. Any way you can get a screwdriver or chisel under it?

So I've got some good and some bad news. First for the good: My trip was a success. The truck ran really really well! I set the smarty to level 3 with all default settings. I could pull 35-37psi of boost and the egts easily stayed below 1200 driving normally. I ran it hard (pinned) up a steep (very steep!) hill in 5th when the trailer was empty to see what it would do. I started around 55 and let off at 85mph. Egts were just below 1300, boost was still at 35psi, and coolant temp was 202deg. We took the toll road around Denver running 78-80mph the whole way and never had any issues. Coolant temps settled down at 195 with the A/C blasted (Did I mention it was 95-98 deg the whole trip??) The next morning we loaded everything down... the front half of the trailer, including the nose, was packed from the floor to the ceiling with the large furniture and beds. The nose had boxes of lord knows what....The back half had the smaller furniture like dressers lamps ect. It must have weighed a decent amount because it squatted the truck. Scary part was I almost couldn't tell the difference between loaded and unloaded when accelerating. I sure felt it when braking though. We came back keeping the speed down to 70 with the same results as going up. I'm still impressed with how well the truck tows. So much power, egts stay cool, and the turbo spools wicked fast. All in all I'm very happy with the results. And to top it off I filled up at 14.2mpg... not bad for those speeds and a decent amount of weight. So today I rolled over 1,550 miles since the rebuild. I pulled it into the shop cold and adjusted the valves. They were all pretty loose, meaning things must be seating in. I also changed the oil for the second time. That went well minus dropping the plug in the 190 deg oil I'm also sick of the timing cover breather spitting on my diff, so I plugged it for now and ordered the block-off plug that takes the place of the breather. Since I had the intake tube off to change the filter I decided to give the system a pressure test and make sure there weren't any boost leaks. I heard one but was having trouble finding it. I thought it was the boots so I re-worked the clamps and no change. I pulled out the spray bottle with soapy water and coated everything.... turns out multiple rows of the intercooler are leaking where they enter the end tank It's not a pin hole either... and the more pressure the faster it leaks. So now I'm stuck trying to find a used intercooler. I head back to school in a week, so if I don't find one ASAP I think I'll pull the trigger on a Mishimoto. I swear this truck is going to fight me until the day one of us dies Sorry for the long rant been a while since I've updated.

Writeup *cough cough*

Bummer... More money haha

I've got blacked out lights off of ebay with white LED's. I really like the way they look and haven't leaked....yet.

Going to piggy back on this.... My blower motor doesn't turn at all on lvl 1. The blower motor is new and doesn't drag, so could it be the resistor?? I think it was cracked when I had it apart

100's paired with a he351cw would probably run really nice. I just don't like to see people go too large on injectors, especially when you don't have plans to build crazy power.

Nick should be able to chime in on this.... he's our quadzilla guru

Just for reference I made over 500hp with 125hp sticks. I don't think you need to go all the way up to 150's. As for the smoke, it's all about how you drive it. A larger turbo is going to lag more and have more smoke on the bottom end if you don't ease into it. A small turbo runs out of air.... gotta size everything right to run clean and powerful.

m14 x 2 x 67.5

Normally you can pick one up with the clutch. There are many aftermarket places that sell them as well. DAP supports this site so I will throw their link up. http://dieselautopower.com/valair-6-speed-flywheel-starter-spacer-kit-for-nv4500-v2151/

Those are pretty big injectors for the turbos you are looking at. I'm not sure if the trans will hold the power either.... But as for the prime issue, you should check the banjo bolt on the back of the head and maybe throw some new washers on it. Another common place for air to leak is the T fitting where the VP return and return off the back of the head connect. I would look at both of those before even thinking about crossover tube O rings leaking.

1200 ft lbs to the ground and the stock input still hasn't broken.... wasn't even twisted when I had the trans out 3 weeks ago. Wish I could help more, but there just isn't much info on the early versions. Rebuilding them is pretty straight forward though.

Hmm I hadn't read about that. You have a pretty rare duck there.... the early 5600's don't come up very often.... I guess just another reason I'd consider a late 5600 or a 4500