TFaoro

Likely quality and ratings. Don't buy super cheap

I'd just go with the contact kit.

The contact coming from the power side wears much quicker than the other side. Once the power side wears enough it can wedge the solenoid in place. Not hard to fix at all Larry B's is where I got mine, and they are oversized! My truck seemed to start faster after http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge-denso-starter-solenoid-kit-89-2006.html Here are some pics. It takes more time to pull the starter than it does to pop the back off and replace. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9995-teardown-and-rebuild/page-13

Quarter panel, bumper, hood, headlight, eyebrow.

A guy in a round-about didn't have his lights on and I didn't see him. My passenger didn't see him either, but he claims they were on.... He had just come out of a store with a well lit parking lot, so I don't think he realized they were off.

I guess when you take them out 10 times they stare poppng in an out pretty easily. I look before I go grabbin stuff!

I just grab the outside and pull. Never been an issue

I use needle nose....

Look at my photobucket album (click on the picture and scroll to the right one)

Well this sucks. Paint is less than a year old. I'll get a better picture tomorrow.

No apology needed! I would just like to keep everyone informed on what is and is not available from each company.

That's only a single disc.... They do not have a dual http://www.valairinc.com/performance/24nv5600.html

I guess I should rephrase... I haven't seen Valair's dual disc with different facings. There's either a ceramic/ceramic or organic/organic. Got a link for something different?

All of the Valair I have seen are either all organic, or all ceramic. I haven't heard good things about them either. I've never heard anything bad about south bend, especially their customer service!

It probably came from fass that way... either take the spring out and stretch it a bit, put a shim behind it, or call fass and get a stronger spring.

Less cold starts = less wear on the engine, so I'd believe it. I'd like to hear what AH64ID has to say on the subject......

I'm not sure when you bought it, but I'm pretty sure it used to be quad organic. My assumption is they were having problems with the organic face burning?? That's why they went to ceramic.... We'll see about the dampers. I'm not too concerned; I doubt you'll be able to hear the clutch over the motor anyway

Mike, it's half and half. Ceramic pucks on the intermediate plate side and organic on the other. They actually engage very smooth when they are broke in. AH64ID maybe you're confusing it with an older clutch?? Here it is: http://www.southbendclutch.com/newsdd3250.pdf They are quieter with a damped intermediate plate as well. And the difference in the "code" is one includes a new input shaft assembly. Everything else is the same.

So I guess today was my lucky day! Found a clutch for sale which the shop owner said had 4200 miles on it. I think it has considerably less because it doesn't even look broke in. Only missing part was the throw out bearing. The hydros went out and the owner said it didn't engage smooth enough for him so he put a napa clutch in it. It's a SB DD3250-6, so I'll need to get an input shaft upgrade, piolet bearing (Just to be safe), a throwout bearing and some new bolts. Best part is.... 480 bucks! PP doesn't look broke in Pucks look new Flywheel doesn't look broke in Intermediate plate still has machining marks in it that you can't see from the picture

Dealer is unlikely... They really have no idea how to work on these things. I'm not sure about a professional scan tool though.

Can you find where it says that? I'm just curious what their reasons were. My guess is 1: It makes the emmissions crap mad (Every engine burns a tad bit of oil no matter what) 2: They aren't making any money off of it so why would they want you to run it.

Lol that's the ugliest timing graph I've ever seen. And the wonder why they have such weird timing rattle when stock.

Mike, do a little searching on the p7100 215hp motor. At higher RPMs it retards the timing a bit. It's a timing table, and for my own reasons I left the values off. Timing, RPM, and throttle% AH64ID knows what he's doing with the smarty tuning. He gave me a few tips before I completed making any tunes.

Yes you can run ZDDP in your truck. It's made specifically to stop premature wear on high pressure surfaces such as the tappets. The shop that machined my engine does man high hp (bully dog truck), stock hp, and medium hp builds and he requires it in all new motors because much of the zinc has been taken out of today's oils. His exact word were: "If anyone is running conventional oil, which I prefer you should put some sort of zinc additive in to keep from wearing the high pressure areas. I have personally rebuilt 4 engines that were 2013 or newer that had cam lobes worn off. I also run 1 bottle of ZDDP in my 12 valve just to make sure things are lubed properly. You will more than likely be just fine running without additive in older, broke-in motors but chancing it with a new motor just isn't smart." Take that as you will; I know I will run ZDDP in my truck for the rest of its life.

The VE and the 215 pump both have a small amount of "dynamic" timing. I wish I could get into a smarty file and see what the heck they have going on. CR maps are way different. Here's an old timing I wrote on my brother's 05. It doesn't resemble what you're talking about at all.