MnTom

Yes sir. They are the ones that are right under the inner fender. Also, they are 15/16". A deepwell socket just won't quite fit under the inner fender and a shallow well won't quite completely cover the nut, but will work.

Hey guys, my son's car (06 Jetta TDI) has all the sudden lost power and I found out that cruise quit at the same time. I have VCDS and pulled an EGR code and an O2 sensor code. I pulled the EGR valve and cleaned it then put it back on. I get screwy readings on what it is doing. Most times at idle it will say 100.6% duty and other times it will say 15% duty. I checked the boost and the actuator comes up with the correct numbers. I blocked off the EGR for testing and it didn't seem to make much of a difference except now there were no engine codes. I should tell you that the fuel filter was changed a week ago. I tok it for a test drive and it would barely get out of its own way. I scanned it again and got an EGR code. I checked the fuel filter and it looks like brand new so I put the canister back together. Started it up and noticed it was way more responsive. Went for a ride and the first 150' it ran great then back to low power. I should mention that it runs real smooth so in my mind that eliminates the cam (which looks fine), compression issues or individual injector problems. The only thing that makes a diesel lack power is fuel and/or air. Since there is no smoke it points to fuel. I am stumped..... Here is the code I get: Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-016-BEW.lbl Part No SW: 03G 906 016 AC HW: 028 101 223 9 Component: R4 1,9L EDC G000DG 7551 Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWZ7Z0E2925752 Coding: 0050078 Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000 VCID: 64E94D3FA7A0153E1FF-8031 1 Fault Found: 001027 - EGR Valve (N18) P0403 - 000 - Malfunction Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 215299 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 22:23:26 Freeze Frame: RPM: 2856 /min Speed: 56.0 km/h Duty Cycle: 0.0 % Voltage: 14.52 V Mass Air / Rev.: 715.0 mg/str Duty Cycle: 0.0 % Bin. Bits: 00000000

Yep, they have the longevity of rotors balanced out with the pads.

I have NEVER had a problem with ordering from him. That is the way customer service should be.

The only problem with harder pads is increased rotor wear. You may need to replace the rotors when you replace pads with ceramics and get two or even three sets of organic pads to one set of rotors.

I missed the part about your transmission. Stupid question, but did you check the fluid? When they get low the will suck air when you turn or the level sloshes. Other than that it does sound like the speed sensor in the side of the transmission. What is probably happening is the transmission is actually down shifting and then up shifting again. Something to try is see if you can figure out a way to tighten the connections where the harness plugs onto the sensor. If you decide to change it it is real simple. Just unpulg the sensor, unscrew the old one, screw in the new one, then plug the harness back in. You will spill a little trans fluid, but not enough to be a problem. BTW, here is what the sensor looks like:

Personally I see no reason for an Outterwears on a BHAF. I have run a BHAF for over 10 years without one and also without a heat shield. I replaced the first BHAF after it had over 100,000 miles on it and it still did not make a filter minder move.

Years ago a guy I know had just about the identical F-150 that I did. He had synthetic through out. We were parked side by side and he was there a couple of hours before me. My truck had petroleum oils through out. Both were 4 WD and the temperature was about -10 degrees. We both walked out together and hopped into our trucks a few hours later. I pushed in the clutch and my truck did not move. He pushed his clutch in and his truck rolled. Which lube do you think was better in cold weather?

I don't know if you would have enough cash for that venture!! A good rebuild shop is the best place to get an alternator if you can.

Let me guess, the seepage is right under the t'stat housing? CTcummins24v is correct. Pull the head, get it cleaned up and a new gasket. The gasket should come with a stretch gauge to check the bolts.

If the place you get one from has the machine and is willing they may put it on the tester to find out what the AC voltage is.

All you would need is new gaskets for the exhaust manifold and turbo mount and the three freeze plugs. If you haven't replaced the antifreeze for a while this would be a great time. You may also want to think about a new thremostat while you are at it.

Taking a vacation? Shoot, I have been on "vacation" since August 15th of last year! I actually kind of lke retirement! Now if the money was there to support it..........

Well, we can now consider this one closed. I left NE Ohio at ablut 0930 Monday and pulled into my driveway 917 miles later at about 1030 Tuesday. My truck gave me absolutely zero problems. I needed to get home so I could haul my car about 85 miles to my son and haul his back. His Jetta TDI is running like crap, but that is another thread. I even got back from that at about 5:30 tonight....I am not used to days like this an I am tired.............

Pull the plug apart and make sure the connections are clean and making good contact. Also check thre voltage at the plug. There should be one wire at +5 volts, one that is the signal out from the APPS to the ECM, and a ground. Use a paper clip (or something similar) to probe the plug so you don't mess up the connectors. I can't tell you the wire colors, but you should be able to find it here on this site.

It has been a couple of years since I went through mine, but NAPA had all the numbers. You can also go to www.napaonline.com and look up the parts and get prices for your truck.

The rubber bushings for the upper and lower arms are available and not bad to replace. I went through the front end of mine a while back and the only thing I didn't replace were the lower control arm bushings. The two bolts on the upper control arm are slotted to give you caster and camber adjustments. The front bolt adjusts the camber and the rear bolt adjusts the caster.

If it was me, I would figure out what has sagged and repair what is the problem. If you found some ball joints like you want all you would be doing is band-aiding the real problem and it could come back with avengance.

Yes, an analog meter would work if you can set it low enough. You will need to be able to detect less than one tenth of a volt AC for it to work. I have heard that the rubbing could cause issues, but can't say for certain. If it is rubbing through the insulation you would need to repair it anyhow.

This^^^^^ This is EXACTLY what just happened to me. I had the shop put stock back in due to the financial aspect of the situation, but if you can afford billet you would be better off. I guess I jinxed myself when I said I had no problem with the stock shaft. Mine lasted approximately 140,000 miles.

The problem I have with that is you are not fixing the problem, just covering it up. If the truck ran for over 10 years without it there is some reason for it to act up. It just takes time and effort to find it then fix it.

No, I plan on leaving towards home Monday. I have not been to that fair in probably 40 years!! Holy mackeral I feel old now................

Do you mean the rubber line? It should be available from just about anywhere.

Far as I know it has ATF+4 in it.

I know what you mean...... Mine just got out of a transmission shop yesterday!