MnTom

Not to my knowledge.

Generally anything over about 35 psi doesn't help you, all it does is heat the air (think of a compressor discharge line). 35 PSI will support 400 hp, but will be a bit smokey with WOT.

The proper way to bleed the pump is to bump the starter. That will make the lift pump run about 25 seconds at a time. Far as the smoke inside, I don't have any idea as to what got hot. Look under the dash and see what you can see.......

The outside temps have less to do with white smoke than most people think. The cylinder temps are mostly responsible for white smoke. Retarded timing will create white smoke, but not after the engine has warmed some. Also if it is a timing issue there is a real good chance your truck will miss and run like crap until it warms up some. I think you hit it with the injectors.

Giving a little throttle is normal P-7100 starting procedure. The '89 to '93 trucks have a rotary VE pump. Two completely different animals. Don't let it keep you up at night!!

I bet that does sound good! I like the sound of stacks too, but don't think they will be good for towing my fiver.... It wasn't stainless..... Probably aluminized steel.

I bet it was the Edge. I saw that on another truck, same symptoms too. Next time it happens put the truck back to stock and see what happens. I highly doubt it is the ignition switch.

The socket needed for the sender is 1 1/16" six point EXTRA deep. I bought a cheap six point deepwell socket and cut the end off that the ratchet goes in. Then I used another socket about the same outside diameter and welded them together. WALLA!! Extra deep socket!

I have one on my fifth wheel and think it id great! I use it to keep an eye on my boat when I tow both, but leave it on anytime I pull my fiver. Here is what I have: http://www.rearviewsafety.com/products/rvs-770613-213-rear-view-camera-system-trailer-kit-fifth-wheel-5th-wheel.html

This may be true, but the HHO (Brown's gas) does increase the fuel mileage on diesels and older gas vehicles. The reson it doesn't work good on 'newer' gas burners is because of the O2 sensor. It will see a slight lean condition and the computer will richen the mixture to compensate. It is a lot like running propane, a little goes a long ways. If you want a lot of reading look here: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/add-hydrogen-better-mpg-t81058.html?&highlight=hydrogen

Generally up to about 350 to 400 hp the stock exhaust is just fine. Over 400 hp you would want a 4" system. From what I understand there would be no one on here making enough power to require a 5" system. Even semis have 4" and they make a fair bit more power than we do. If you go to big you can cause the EGTs to climb!! The reason for that is because the exhaust never gets warm and since cooler air is more dense it takes more effort to push it out.

Sounds to me like a partial melt down. That does happen with even stock trucks! He may have also had one injector not spraying properly and that would cause the same thing too. It will run for quite a while like that, but eventually........ You can run a compression check or just go ahead and pull the head to see what happened. Keep us informed!

That sounds like a boost leak to me. On the big trucks I have heard a boost leak sound like a siren on a cop car! Anyhow, look closely at the boots for any movement and also check the boot at the inlet of the intercooler by the right inner fender. There have been quite a few that have had the boot rub and wear a hole that would only touch when the boot expanded and looked just fine otherwise.

I tried it on mine about 10 years ago, but since mine is one of the early 47RE transmissions the software running the tranny would not let it work right. All mine would do is go into limp mode without a reflash, But I do know that as soon as mine shifted into second with the lock on it would stall the engine. It would kill it so quick you wouldn't believe it! Anyhow, I don't have one but I do recall Bill K. of DTT saying a locked shift is quite hard on the components.

Dave Goerends told me that with ATF+4 (synthetic) 200* in the pan would be the highest you would want to see, but normally won't hurt much. Obviously the cooler the better, but I trust what Dave G told me.

So, how come the stands are empty?

Wouldn't it be easier to pull the down pipe off the turbo and look at the fins? One clamp and it is off.

This steering system has one tie rod that goes from wheel to wheel and has one link to go from the pitman arm to the tie rod. There is a lot less parts involved and a lot less chance of play contributing to death wobble.

Your auto ranging DMM should give you milivolts. I suggest using the values that were from your link:400F - 8.32 Millivolts800F - 17.53 Millivolts1200F - 26.98 Millivolts1600F - 36.17 MillivoltsLike John said, just use a type K thermocouple. Just don't call it a thermocoupler like some do (one of my pet peeves). It don't couple anything.......

That little flake is nothing but some soot. Nothing to worry about. If you can separate the wires going to the probe do so and check the voltage generated (yes, that is how they work) with a DVM set on milivolts. I don't know how much it makes, but it should vary as to how much the temperature of the probe rises. The warmer the probe the higher the voltage. Far as the gauge not reading zero, unless yours did before then it is normal. Mine has never been below 175* in over ten years.Now as far as your noise, what part does it seem to be coming from? Head, exhaust, lower on the block? Check to make sure you don't have any tin rattling on the exhaust or in the muffler. Something to try is to use a dowel to listen to your engine. Put the end of the dowel where you want to listen the use one hand to grasp the end of the dowel so that it is not sticking out of your hand. Put your ear up against your hand holding the dowel and you will be able to pin point a lot of different sounds.

ISX, PM sent.

The first thing I would do is pull the probe. IF there is a piece of the thermocouple in the turbo you risk major damage and expense.

Isx, one way that Amsoil saves money is in the longevity of the quality of the oil. The less you change it the less it costs. If you use it and have regular oil analysis done you just might be surprised as to how long you can run it until the contaminants get to the point of needing replacement. Also something to think about is the fact that Amsoil does such a good job of cleaning that IF you have a leak that is plugged with sludge from dino oil then it WILL leak with synthetic oil. Fleets that use Amsoil have shown a reduction in operating costs with synthetic oil and grease. Believe it or not, I have worked in the facility (building the piping) that Amsoil has for production and have seen what goes in to making the lubes and I am impressed. Oh, yes I am a dealer too, but more for my own use than anything else.

Yes they will. I have a set of third gen wheels on my truck and there has not been any change in bolt pattern.

The original HD steering has a damper on it too. Here is what my daughter's '98 looks like: