Wild and Free

They are a great tire, I had a set on my 02, ride is nice quiet and traction is better than you would expect for as tame as they look. I think I got 50k out of them. Have a couple friends who swear by them also. The new tread design has a lot more siping and a better side wall than the older ones I had on.

Kind of the same story of How midwestdieselconnection was started, MNTom was a mod on DTR I believe and the issues you talked about above are the same as what happened to him so he started his own forum.

Nothing special, just another oil change. I usually tell people to run the first synthetic oil change to a normal service interval or a bit shorter to clean things up and flushed out then at the second change you can go to extended drain intervals of your choosing.

Its not actually good for any diesel to idle in cold temps, always best to elevate the idle some how. Its not a cummins issue I have seen about every engine mfg have slobbering issues with excessive cold idle time.

That could definately be the cause if it is a vacuum line. Not sure of the electric connector though. The CAD has 2 vacuum lines on it, one to engage and 1 to disengage and they come from the vacuum switch mounted on top of the T-case. To check if the vacuum switch is working you should have vacuum at 1 hose at the CAD in 4X4 and it should switch to the other line in 2wd but engine must be running to check for vacuum.

I would check the front axle CAD"central axle disconnect" on the right hand axle tube, keep it in 4X4 Jack up the front end and turn the right front tire and see if it turns the other tire in opposite direction. If the other tire doesn't turn then the CAD isn't working which could be a few different issues from vacuum switch to mechanical issue with cad locking collar.

I had a 99 long box qc 4X4 with 3.54 and auto with the 8.0 V10 and I averaged 9.5 mpg overall, I saw 11mpg 1 time in 2 years, 55 mph for 200 miles to get it. I ditched it for my 02 cummins which in hind site was dumb also because i COULD HAVE GOTTEN AN 03 cummins for the same price with only 5k more miles but I liked the look of the 2nd gen better and was leary of a first year 3rd gen. My best friend ended up with the 03 and it has been flawless for him.:bang: Win some loose some.

I too am an amsoil dealer and have been running it in every cavity of my vehicles for over 10 years and have swapped over vehicles with over 100k with no leak issues. If it is going to leak with syn it means it was close to being a leak already with standard oils.

I had a Donaldson air filter training class years ago and it proved how plugged a filter can get before it causes a restriction, We had a 1680 CaseIH combine Hooked to a PTO dyno and we taped the filter up 1 inch at a time and we were down to about 1 inch of filter pleats showing before it started to smoke and affect power on the dyno. Overservicing of filters has long been proven to be the biggest culprit of dirt in the engiine. Every time a filter is removed a small amount of dirt is present somewheres that will get into the intake, maybe not as bad in automotive apps but still has potential.

I saw that one already, I am extremely suprised with how old the NV 4500 is and in 3 brands that I know of that there are no free overhaul manuals available online.

They are supposed to be a better manual but they have fallen the way of all other non factory rags. I have been looking for overhaul procedures for an NV4500 for a friend and they think nobody is qualified to do manual tranny repairs so they do not include any info for them at all.

The Can bus is a different communication tool than OBDII. Can bus is the industries way of bringing uniformaty to all manufactures both automotive and over the road trucks ect. vesus every mfg having their own communication formats and tools. Plus can bus can handle WAY more info WAY fastert than OBDII systems. its like comparing Dial up to digital technology.

You have to unbolt the steering colum from the dash and let it lay back on the seat and then you unbolt the dash and let it lay back against the seat and then you can get to most everything pretty easy.

Here you go...............http://quad4x4.com/

Why not just use the leveling spacers for the front springs. Can be had for around 50 bucks.

Check out this thread for the governor sensor, it is inside the trans pan on the valvebody. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1144-P0743-p1693?p=7539&highlight=#post7539 P1757 (M) Governor Pressure Above 3 PSI In Gear With 0 MPH Governor pressure greater than 3 psi when requested to be 0 psi (4-speed auto. trans. only). I would check and see if the TV "Throttle valve" cable is adjusted properly before condemming the gov solenoid, It runs from the apps housing above the injection pump down to the drivers side of the tranny. Or maybe you have snow or ice in the TV linkage on the side of the tranny holding it open. It could also be the gov solenoid has contamination inside of it holding it open in that case a replacement will be needed.

If you can find out the hp of the engine it would probably be the same as the dodge vp from a tow truck or the 275 version. The tractor would most likely be different as they are goverened differently than automotive applications.

Just a quick note.....Now that you modified the fuel delivery your electronic milage measuring devices are not going to be correct. They are programmed for stock fueling/throttle position rates and now that is altered with different injectors so I would definately be checking it manually from now on to see how much of a diff it will make from the digital readings to the actual calculation.

Not quite sure I am understanding your question totally but there are 2 different VP44's in Dodge pickups. An SO pump 215 hp and an HO pump 235 hp. The SO will work on an HO engine but the HO will not work on an so engine. An after market built HRVP44 will work on both engines. The so pump has more fuel volume than an HO pump the HO pump has more timing and more pressure than an so pump. The HRVP44 combines the timing and pressure of the HO with the volume of the SO pumps. Hope this didn't cornfuzz you.........

Also copper is a lot more forgiving than aluminum rads and cores. Alum will get the "Corral Reef":p lol... thing going long before copper will too.

Not exactly..........What kills more radiators and heater cores is the use of the wrong water. Distilled is prefered but RO water is the best. Tap water or well water ect has too many minerals, iron, sodium, ect ect in it which can causes corrosive conditions along with abrassives and also causes caking and plugging of cores. Mixing of different coolant recipes/brands can be a bad deal as well.

Its common and yes it is usually clutch material, not just tc but could be from anyone of the clutch pack..

I carry most of whats posted above, but when I am on the road the only thing I really need is my cell phone and AAA card. The few breakdowns I have had no tools would of fixed on the road side anyways. I just have AAA tow my ride back to my shop and fix it there. AAA plus is a super bargain at $106 a year for my wife and myself. My wife uses it on a regular basis due to locking keys inside vehicles all the time.

I have the 150 version of that. It is ok but when it gets down to around 10 below it doesn't pressure up right away. It runs but it takes a bit to build pressure but only at startup after a minute or so it comes to life.

Here you go for references a link for a stock one and a pick and link to the one from suncoasts site. http://www.suncoastconverters.com/dodge/dodge_products.html http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/A500_42RE_A618_46RE_transmission_solenoids_p/530-00053397a.htm