Wild and Free

The BD pressure lock does just what you want. http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/29P

If an injector body cracks it can get fuel into the crankcase. Rare but does happen with power adding pressure boxes.

Don't be afraid to move it back, it will not hurt anything, if you go to far it will not upshift or have a really delayed upshift. Just go back and try it like you did by moving it forward.

www.smartypower.com Bob WAGNER is the usa distributer and will send one out to try, he is a super nice guy and will even pay shipping both ways if you don't like it. Give him a call as he is super busy guy and can be nearly impossible to get a reply from him by e-mail.

The Smarty is a VIN # locked programmer and can only be installed on 1 rig at a time. It needs to be taken back to stock to be able to load it into another pickup. But the Elevated idle function will be activated for good after a smarty has been loaded and then unloaded back to stock.

www.smartypower.com and Bob Wagner will let you try one with no strings attached......... He is the USA distributer and is out of Washinton state.

Nope the B series have a solid block, That is why they are internally balanced so you can bore a single cylinder up to .040 over and run an over sized piston in 1 or several holes. Or you can bore it out over sized and drysleeve it back to stock size.

I would drive it really really easy if you moved it forward as that will dercrease tranny pressures and could burn clutch packs if you poor too much power to it. I have never ever moved one forward, everyone I have done and heard of everyone else doing is always pulling it back to increase shift points, now you are probably shiftng into od at like 25mph already. To be totally honest I would adjust it back and see if you canget it to work fore you that way you won't chance damaging the tranny.

Now lets be politically correct here......some may find your comments to be offensive...

The pressure lock looks like a miniature silver cylinder about 4-5 inches long and about an inch in diameter and would be on the driverside of the transmission and the vacuum control would be mounted to an intake bolt. Here is a pic of it.

You beet me to the punch. Thats an add on oil pressure switch its not an OEM part, It must have had some additional gauges at some time or an add on option that was activated through oil pressure. Either way it is add on. Trace them wires back to the source and what if anything it feeds power to.

That will give you a code but shouldn't affect shifting, Does your rig have a BD pressure lock on the tranny? That is the reason I could think of for the tranny relay is removed and terminals are jumped. To get a pic here go to bottom of post and pic manage attachment and brows from your computer file pics then pick the picture and hit download.

This should help you with sender locations Coolant temp sensor is on right front of engine not on this pic.

Could be a bad speed sensor causing both speedo and shifting issues. The only sensor I can think of in the area you state is the cam sensor but it is in the front cover not the block and if that was unhooked it wouldn't start or run. Can youn see any other wires from the harness where they may have torn out of?:confused:

Did you trace them back to see if they are add on wires, they could have been wires for a comp box tap for the vp44? or do they go into an OEM harness? What does the tranny do or not doing?

The apps can have "bad spots" that you could hit with a longer drive so I wouldn't rule it out as good yet, give it a few days of normal driving. Not sure on the speedo thing maybe a bad gauge, is there any other codes? I would plug in the connector that is unhooked and check and clean the engine harness conections and clean the grounds.

We all learn from one another, You may find something no one else has had a run in with and find a way to deal with it that is helpfull to the rest of us.

There is no set rebuild cost, too many variables. Most rebuilds come as a result of broken or worn rings bad injector causing melted piston ect which all leads to a scored bore. so machining can contribute to rebuild cost, these engines are designed to do partial rebuilds as they are internally balanced and CAN run different sized pistons in the engine. Or you can bore and sleeve the hole ther is no set way to fix these engines which is the beauty of them.

Not to correct but "HIGH IDLE" is wide open foot to the floor full governed rpm. What you are after is the "Elevated Idle" option. Also known as fast idle. Just find someone with a Smarty programmer and do a download and just unload it again the elevated idle will then be activated for good. Most guys with smarty programmers are always passing them around just to enable the elevated idle option for others.:shades:

A warning to those who may try this adjustment......make sure you have a starting reference point on the cable before moving it so that you can get it back to the original position if you don't like the way it works. Do not move it forward too far as this can decrease internal tranny pressures and could possibly burn clutches. This is why the reference mark is important to put on the cable sheeth before moving it. There is a proper way of adjusting it but to adjust it to increase shift points will not hurt a thing. Remember pulling cable back increases shift points.

The cable comes out the back side of the apps and runs down to the trans. There are 2 the throttle cable and the tv cable. The pump is computer controlled and has no cables attached to it just a wiring harness.

Yep somethings wrong unless you are noticing the ac compressor cycling if you have the defroster on. The grids should stop after ground speed reaches 15 mph or so.

IIRC "If I Remamber Correctly" Forum lingo I had to learn years ago too. start with key off then cycle key on /off ending with key on the 3rd time but do not start just go to ignition on position. and look at the odometer and it will scroll through the codes. The grid heaters pull a big amount of amperage and will do so for quite a while after start up until you pass 15 mph and or intake temps get to a set level.

Did you recalibrate the APPS, This usually does nothing for that speed lock unlock but the apps ground rewire trick can but what I found works best for me was to adjust the Throttle valve "TV" cable a bit if you move it towards the cab it will increase the shift point a bit and thus getting past the trouble speed that you drive at a lot that causes the issue. I kick OD off in town and with the tv cable adjusted eliminated the same issue years ago for me. I got my tv cable adjusted so that if you know the rig it will actually grab and lockup in 3rd with the od on even. Be sure to put a mark on the cable before moving it there is a light grey locking tab that pulls out sideways towards the driverside. The adjustment is really fine and you will only need to move it back about 2 notches, maybe 1/16 of an inch to make a big difference. Pulling cable back increases shift point rpms and moving it forward decreases rpm shift points. Try this, I think you will be suprised at the difference, it will feel like you have a shift kit and will delay all the other shifts by a few rpms also.

IIRC the key trick works on the 06 also, did it on my friends 06 and got them a couple years ago.