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98 crank no start
Look up the battery temp sensor under P 1492, see below for post; are the batteries good and the ground connections good? p1693 is just saying you threw a code, good luck
- Tachometer works about 5 seconds at start up
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Engine loss of fuel after hard acceleration.
Is it throwing any codes ? P1693? I had my overflow valve on the VP44 go bad. It would buck like its out of fuel under acceleration. My fuel pressure stayed above 12 psi
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Starter turning slow
If the starter turning slow, and since you're in there, you might as well get the brush kit. I recommend a small torch to do the soldering of the brush leads, rather than a soldering iron, you'll be waiting forever for it to flow. Try to protect the brush sleeve with some fiberglass or aluminum foil. Also, that old phenolic lead to the solenoid is very brittle by now, snapped mine right off trying to remove the wire.
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Starter turning slow
Larry B’s is the way to go, really nice guy, very helpful http://www.fostertruck.com/cummins-dodge-denso-starter-easy-rebuild-kit-94-06.html
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Did my VP go too?
Done
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Did my VP go too?
You were very lucky.
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Did my VP go too?
After you installed your new lift pump did it fluctuate when the VP was acting up?
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Did my VP go too?
Special X, with stock injectors.
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Did my VP go too?
A new member of the dead VP club. I had a lift pump go bad too, and then I talked to FASS and replaced the spring, I dead tested the lift pump before installing it and i would get about 12 psi on an old pressure gauge. I put all new fuel filters including the FASS inline filter. I installed this in the truck and the pressure read 15 psi. OK, maybe? Truck would run sputter when I gave it gas and accelerate, and then die. The pressure would go to 15, then as the truck died the fuel pressure drops to 0. I get the Pdone code but no other codes on an Innova scanner, no P1693 just the P0216. Yep, I thought my truck was running great too. Marcus, did your fuel pressure fluctuate or fall to zero on yours? It was a Blue Chip VP44 that I got about 90 K out of, and that's with 2 stroke oil for over 50k worth of driving.
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alternator
Dieselfuture, Did your Denso alternator plug right in place of the Bosch connections? I have a 2001 so it should be similar, but the stock unit is a Bosch. My AC noise measured 0.025 VAC. Thanks
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High amp alternator
The alternator woes seem to be common these days. I have tried to get the check gages light to go off since I have owned the truck. I checked the Bosch alternator for AC noise and measured 0.022 VAC, with the 140 amp fuse out. I cleaned both engine grounds, and I have no PCM error codes. Both batteries tested good with 500+ CCA and 13.8 volts. I measured 13.8 volts with alternator charging, and battery voltage was 13.8-14 volts also. Based on what I have read elsewhere, the check gages light is from improper voltage level on the voltage regulator in the PCM. Is there another way to get rid of the check gauges light? Yes, I am electrically challenged, but apparently in good company here.
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Low system voltage
Lineman, I've always had the check gauges light on the dash, and voltages issue with my alternator rebuilt from NAPA. I've heard the voltage regulators are not good on the Bosch alternators. If you have a 99, you might have a nippendenso (ND) alternator. If not, try to get the ND alternator, you can buy these off of Amazon. If the voltage regulator is still acting up, Larry B's offers an external voltage regulator. www.fostertruck.com. Larry is very helpful. If all else fails, you could try rebuilding your alternator with a Geno's Garage kit. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/gould-ark-denso/engine-rebuild-kits-2 Have you checked for any error codes? If you do not have a code reader, you can do the 3 ignition key turn trick. Just turn the ignition off and on three times in a row, and the odometer display will read error codes. You might have a something else going bad. I would recommend checking the ground for the alternator, should be under the passenger battery on the fender. Good luck.
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Possible ground and tq problems
I've had similar battery problems, I went and had them tested, one was bad the other good, so I replaced the bad one. I had the alternator tested, but the test wouldn't continue because it said there was a draw on the alternator with all accessories off. That's is likely a bad ground, where is the most common place for a bad ground on the alternator?
- Quick alternator question