Racer Dan

I have the stock lift pump with a new rotor that I had made at a [EDM] tool and die shop for [$200] that doesn't have the plastic adapter in it that strips out so for now it's ok but I think that I too will be going with a Raptor 100 mounted on the frame rail by the tank. I thought about the airtex too but I don't wanna play this fuel pump game all year long. I just want a dependable system and the Raptor 100 looks like a good way to go to me for a stock situation.

Do they have a wet sleeve design so you can just change them out? I think Detroits are like that?

I moved the cable ahead and did a road test. I actually moved it ahead 3 times to get it where I like it. Maybe for towing I will move it back a little but for 99% of my driving it will be good. Now I can get into the pedal and it doesn't kick down and shift a 1,000 times and it makes use of the torque of the engine instead of revving for nothing. Thanks again for that tip.

I've never heard of a smarty programmer but I'll ask around and see if anybody has one.

Is that tv cable on the pump or the apps? I might go for a ride to a friends shop and pull that cover and see what I have and ground that wire at the same time. Thanks for the info. Oh and I did recal the apps a week ago.

That must have been nasty when you figure that you have a real durable engine and then it ends up having issues, and 20 below is just too damn cold no matter what you are doing. You can't work with gloves and when you take them off you end up with frostbite like I've had on my thumbs for about 15 years now.

I still know a few mechanics that work in the local Chrysler dealerships so I'll see if one of them can do it for me a little cheaper.

No I don't have a live data tool yet. I've only owned this truck for 2 years so this is the best that it has ever run except for the shifting issue. A friend owns a starter and alternator rebuilding shop so when the weather warms up a little I will take it in and have him spin it up on the bench and probably just put another one on and maybe one of his starters too. The apps ground is still another option as well, I think you said it's the black/yellow tracer.

Thanks I saved a copy of that pic too. I wonder how much a basic rebuilt costs on these B series engines? Sooner or later all of these engines will need a rebuild.

It should help for sure. It's only real cold for one more day and then the lows will be in the teens again with highs in the mid 20's.

I have a 2002 CTD automatic that can't seem to decide what gear that it wants to be in or if it wants the convertor locked or unlocked between 35-40 MPH... Maybe the apps is bad? I remember when the auto manufacturers made stuff that was pretty good. They made cars that didn't blow head gaskets, didn't wear out wheel bearings, etc. GM had Turbo 400 transmissions, Turbo 350's weren't too bad either. Ford had c4 and c6 transmissions that performed quite well and the famous 9" rear end that is still the standard of many racing series to this day. Chrysler had the 727 and 904 transmissions and also the Hemi 4 speeds that were very good. Also the 8 3/4 rear ends as well as the Dana 60 used in many vehicles was durable. The 833 trans was also very durable. The slant 6 Chrysler engine was also very good. Then came the mid 70's and alot of "advancements in technology" came along which I think were disasters in some cases. Lean burn ignition systems coupled with lock up torque convertors, carburetors with tamper proof idle adjustments, light duty differentials with spider gears that failed, front wheel drive cars that blow head gaskets and wipe out cv joints all of the time, automatic transmissions that don't have adjustable linkage shift points like the old ones did so a guy can adjust it to suit his own driving style, lease cars that are designed to last 3 years, lift pumps with inferior parts known to fail and not re-engineered to perform and last, aftermarket wheel bearings that will collapse within a year, rotors that are made on a minimum so once they warp they are scrap, door handles that break and door hinges that wear out rapidly, manual transmissions that don't work properly, etc... For the money that we spend to buy these vehicles we shouldn't need "forums" on the internet to make and keep the things running. It's rediculous really.:confused: I'm just pissed off because all of these automatic transmissions these days aren't worth anything.I have rebuilt 727's and 904's in the past and they were very easy and cheap to do. I can't wait to take apart one of these "new modern" trans and see what they have in them.

I'll have to ask my buddy at the dealership how much they will charge me with the DRB 3 to enable the high idle. I would like to get a copy of the TSB from you for it if possible.

Thanks I learned something else today. I just assumed that it did.

Since I need a new sender I'm probably just as well off to go ahead and get the 1/2" drawstraw at the same time

Probably a Raptor 100, big line to the stock fuel filter and a new sending unit in the tank with the 1/2" pickup. Have I got it right yet or am I still messed up lol? I might just have to get the Visa card out next week and order everything once I get my grocery list correct Also do I retain the banjo fittings at the stock filter or do I want them to be MIA?

Maybe the batteries share a little of the load while the fans are powered up. I would just as soon take the fan off the engine and at the same time take the load off of the water pump bearing. The other nice part with the electric fans is if you are in rush hour traffic that the fan or fans will pull at 100% capacity to help the a/c keep up a little better. There may even be room to also put a pusher fan on the front just behind the grill. This forum is cool because alot of people have ideas for projects and also alot of past experience for input.

Thanks for the tip on the pre filter too Ed. Any job is only as good as the weakest link and ALL of the tech tips help and make the jobs easier.

Good link Michael, thanks as I need to do all of this stuff.

I'm not sure what type of line that they use on the fuel injection systems but on the natural gas systems they only carried a max tank pressure of 3,000 psi so the 10,000 psi line was sufficient. I'm new to the diesel stuff and learning every day about it, right here on this site from ya'll.

Since I need a new sending unit anyway I might as well just buy this: Looking for a drop in no hassle fuel supply solution? We take a brand new module unit and install our 1/2" DSV system so all you have to do is drop it in, make the connections and go! These units have 3/8 and 5/16 Dorman type male connections for the return lines and either a 1/2 or 3/8 supply connection. No need to cut into your filler neck for our FASS or AirDog return line. Both return lines go into the module bucket to help replenish the fuel supply when fuel levels are low. Sending unit plugs in the same as OEM, all have new sending units and floats. Replaces in-tank pump module. Comes with JIC pushlock swivel connection in 3/8 or 1/2" for pump connection. Make supply line size selection below. If you need a 1/2" return adapter for your AirDog system select the option below. Our Price: $199.99 Product Code: JLFMDS 1/2" 140 mic prescreen filter [Add $8.99] 3/8" 140 mic prescreen filter [Add $5.99] Dorman adapter 3/8 to 1/2" barb AirDog [Add $6.99] Dorman adapter 3/8 to 3/8" barb FASS [Add $4.99] Supply Line Size*: 1/2" 3/8"

It's nice when you can buy harnesses for stuff and it's ready to rock!

[update] I just went outside and cut up an old helmet box and made 4 grill covers [ approx 3"X21"] for my truck. I only had wire tie wraps to hold them on with so it'll be interesting to see how long they stay on. Some of those electric fan mounting kits would work alot better.

Last night the temp went down to 14*f and the truck started perfect without being plugged in and I still didn't block the grill off [ too damn cold to work outside today]. Tonight is going down to 8*f so I might plug it in. The PS pump is kind of whiney so I let it idle at about 1,200 for a few mins to warm up before I move it at all. Maybe I'll go outside for a couple of minutes and see if I can block the grill with something...

That's good to know. I learn something on this site every day and usually more than just one thing from Michael or one of the other members.

Yes but you have to disconnect the batteries for at least 30 minutes first. Then reconnnect the batteries and do that procedure. Michael has a link on here for the procedure but I can't tell you exactly where to find it but drop him a message and he can hook you up.