Hawkez

It would be interesting to know what caused the Fuse to blow, whether it be a "momentary undesireable conditon" or an problem that will continue to blow fuses.

I'll second the nomination for the Fuel Boss. I installed one in my truck last month; an upgrade from the stock lift pump that I had. I was seeing pressures anywhere from 4-11 PSI with the original set up, but with my mechanical pump I sit solid at 16-17 PSI. The install was easy and not a whole lot to go wrong with the system--No electronics to fail.

The brackets are correct.

I bought a set of tow mirrors to replace the stock mirrors on my truck. I got them from Rock Auto. There wasn't an instruction or even a tip for installation in the box that I got. I got them installed but I was left with a few questions about the install. For instance, the new bracket on the driver's side door is in the way of the mirror adjustment switch. I cannot fully install the door panel. Has anyone else ran into this? The panel will fully install with the switch removed, but that does me no good either. One of the three nuts holding the mirror in place hits the switch. There has to be something that I can do. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

My truck does this same thing when I first start it in the cold. The check guages light will remain on for 15 seconds or so and as soon as the voltmeter comes up it goes away. i have always attributed it to the grid heaters. Just my 2 cents.

I recently had a similar issue with a car and I went down every road for months trying to troubleshoot my problem. My car would start sometimes and other times I got nothing. I spent too much time and over thought it. Put a volt meter on your battery and see if you are losing volts after shut down. My car would drop down very quickly to around 10.5ish and then stay there. If I had the hood light on or radio it depleated much quicker to that level. It was very odd at the time and now looking back and feel silly for not looking into the battery at first. I couldn't get over it starting fine sometimes and then not starting during others. Every time I jumbered across the leads on the starter my car started right up as well, it is no fun chasing down gremlins. Just my two cents, Keep it Simple.

If you don't mind me asking, what kind of "stupidity" would result in changing a belt? Thanks all for the replies and advice.

I got a small refund from Uncle Sam this week and I am planning on installing a mechanical fuel pump. My question is whether I should go with the Assassin or Fuel Boss--what is the good, the bad, and the ugly of each. I know these topics have been beat almost to death but if you can point me in a direction of an article that has already compared the two that would more than suffice. I have searched through the different forums but I was hoping for a little bit more. Thanks,

Over the last couple of weeks I have noticed a couple of instances where the air coming out of my vents seems extremly restricted. There is a little bit of air coming through is not normal. As I move the fan speed switch I can here the blower motor speed up and slow down accordingly. The vent selection makes no difference as it will vent air where Ihave it selected. Cold or Hot, no difference there either. It didn't work all weekend, but when I got in this morning the air blew very strong?? I assume that the problem will come back. It has been cold and wet here, but nothing record breaking. Could this be a symptom of a bad blend door? Any feedback would be much appreciated.

I am also curious on why you are choosing to delete the OEM pump. I am considering the same pump for my truck, how was the install? What are you seeing for fuel pressure now vs before?

I like the idea. I recently changed the oil in my NV5600. My plan was to fill the transmission from the top bolt on the PTO cover, however, I couldn't see how I was going to fill it without spilling oil everywhere so I opted to pull the shifter. I overfilled my transmission with an extra quart and I would be very interested to see what you come up with.Good luck!!

Have your changed your fuel filter recently?

I'm still pretty new on this site so forgive me if this is repetitive. I have seen many discussion on the web on this topic and I found this report easy for my simple mind to understand. I thought I would share. http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf

It also applies to extending the torque wrench and if someone needed a higher torque, through witchcraft and math, they could use the equation to decide what it would take to achieve the desired torque.

I've got a pretty good document (with pictures!) that helps with these equations. I have been trying for too long to upload it and attach it to this I cannot figure it out. :banghead: Pretty Frustrating. Send me an e-mail at and I'll send it to you. Maybe somebody else can figure out how to attach it. - - - Updated - - - I'm not sure what I did differently, but here is the attachement. I hope it helps.

This might be a great test of the "There are no stupid questions" rule...but I have to ask.For those of you that have manual transmission, which gear to you start out in when under no real load? I've heard of people doing starting our in 1st and others starting out in 2nd but I would rather hear people's thoughts and get more of an understanding rather than burn up a clutch earlier than normal. Thanks for the input.

Just for an update....I installed my guages and like some suggested I did not use any sealant on my fuel pressure sensor. I bought a tapped banjo bolt from Geno's and installed my needle valvle into that and the sender screwed into the valvle. I torqued it all to about 18 ft lbs and no leaks, it seems to be holding fine. Thanks for advice.

I recently bought a '99 and when I got it home I realized the back up lights weren't working. I started looking for the switch and then decided to check the fuse. It was blown and ended up being an easy fix. Just my .02.

Great, thanks for all the responses.

Hello, I am getting ready to install Fuel Pressure, EGT, and a Boost Gauges in my truck. My question is about thread sealant on the treads of fittings and senders. I am going to install a tapped banjo bolt on top of my filter housing and a needle valve will be installed in that. I don't see a lot of recommendations for Teflon tape and I am not sure if I can get a good seal without adding something to prevent leaking. Does anyone have any suggestions? For the EGT gauge I was planning on using an anti-seize on the treads of the sensor. How about for the boost sensor? Is anything recommended for that connection? Thanks for your help.

Hello, I am new to the site and new to the Dodge world. I recently bought a used '99 Ram 3500 and it is in pretty good condition. As the weather here in Northern Utah is getting cooler, the need for AC is decreasing. On the air direction selector control (I have no idea what the legal name is for the control) the majority of the vent positions turn the AC system on. The selections are OFF, AC Max w/upper vents, Normal upper vent, Lower and Upper vent, lower vent, Lower vent w/Defrost, Defrost only. (I think I am forgetting one?) Any way, this is the first vehicle that I have owned that has not had a AC power button, so the AC system in this truck, and verified in my the owner's manual, runs in all modes except upper vent only and lower vents only. In the winter, why would I want the AC to be running if I am trying to heat the cab? Would the extreme cold outside adversely affect the AC system, causing it to freeze up and damage itself?I assume that I could pull a fuse, maybe reroute the serpentine belt--or maybe none of this is a big deal and I should just leave it. The OCD in me would like to just shut it off when I don't want to use it. Thanks for your help.