Hawkez

Check for leaks or damp areas on fuel lines and fittings. You may be losing your prime.

I bought my drill bit at O'reilly's. I would be too worried to use anything different because if it doesn't work, then what??? 11/32 = 22/64 there size difference of 1/64", so your call.

This site has been the instigator for me spending more money than I had ever intended on my truck. Before following this site I was perfectly content driving my truck stock. I'm not sure how much money this site has saved me? Of course I say this all tongue-in-cheek . While I haven't had the issues with my truck that so many have had with theirs, I have gained a wealth of information from reading the daily post of others. I've said before and I'll say it again, it will always be a challenge to get people to pay for something that they can get for free elsewhere on the internet. Only after realizing the amount of information that this site offers will a person begin to understand that the price is worth it. Just over $1.60 a month is a bargain to have access to the downloads and articles. I am not convinced that relying on members and dealers for membership dues is sustainable, IMHO. I imagine a vendor is concerned about the amount of traffic this site sees vs others on the WWW. My squadron is always looking for money for retirement and holiday parties and we have guys that peddle t-shirts, hoodies, beanies, koozies, coins and other tchotchkes that bring in enough revenue to meet our needs. I'm not big on putting stickers on my truck, but I'd buy one and I'd wear a t-shirt with the site logo. Start out small (XL for me) and increase production as orders/money come in. I think it would be a reasonable goal to have a window sticker and t-shirt available by the end of the year and next year add another item or two. Let's get some t-shirts out there and then create a photo gallery of people in Mopar1973man.com apparel posing around the country/globe. It would continue to strengthen the family-feel of the site and help recruit the experience of others. Michael, I didn't know that is how this site got started and that is a great story. I appreciate your efforts in in keeping this going and I would hate to see all of your latest efforts still running the path of running out of money and the site shutting down. Please don't take my comments as critical, I am just trying to throw in my 2 cents. Who knows, maybe one of my bad ideas will be the catalyst for someone coming up with a great idea.

We had a car once that got a piece of the aluminum seal, that comes on bottels of injector cleaner, down inside the tank. For the most part it drove great, but every now and then the car would just die. It was too big to get sucked through the lines. Just a thought.

You can reflash the ECM at a dealership or with a smarty. Most dealerships will charge $50-$75 for this.

I know you said you are using a different scanner and getting the same result, but are they the same brand? Is it possible operator error in reading/checking for codes? This seems really odd and apparently it has baffled the mighty-minds on this site.

Do you have your mounted on top? Or is it on the ground, that would make it easier to manually track the sun.

I know there was some talk on here about the 45 watt Solar Panel kit that Harbor Freight sales. In the flyer I got in the mail they have a sale on these, with a coupon, for $ 140. Here is the kit http://www.harborfreight.com/45-watt-solar-panel-kit-68751-8527.html For those that have used it, do you still like it and thing it is worth the money?

Very cool

I don't have that problem, but I have to manually push my handle back in so the latches will catch when I close the tailgate. My latches are fine, but the handle seems to bind a little bit.

Sounds like a pretty good reason. Good luck, hopefully it all goes well.

Drums don't necessarily require to be removed, but it is a little more awkward to get to without putting it up on jacks and removing the tire. You can access the bleeder screws on your calipers with out jacking it up, but it would be a lot easier if you take the tire off. If you are rebuilding your front calipers, why not rebuild the rear calipers as well? The rebuild kits aren't too expensive, but the big advantage is cleaning all the garbage the builds up in caliper. I was very surprised when I took my calipers apart. There was quite a bit of sludge under the piston, in the bottom of the bore.

Do you have disk brakes on the rear?

That is what I did with the new ones. I didn't have that option with the ones that rusted.

You ought to bleed the rear as well. Start with the Right-Rear (passenger side) as this is the furthest from the master cylinder. I recently did mine and found that the bleeder screws were so rusted on my rear wheel cylinders that I sheared them off in the process. The wheel cylinders were cheap enough and easy enough to replace, but I did have to wrap things up and run into town to replace them.

I get the same at my work computer but at home I see the pictures. I probably should be doing other things at work anyway.

The drain-cock for the radiator will only turn a half turn or so and then you need to pull it outward. It will not come all the way out, but that is what will open the drain and allow the fluid to leave. Were you pulling it out or just turning it?

I put the green Oreilly's brand in my truck.

Thermostats for our trucks are designed to keep the temperature at 190*, that is what is meant by the 190*. Some have played around with other thermostats that operate around 200*. are you saying that your engine doesn't get warmer than 165*? Ever? You may have a thermostats that isn't working correctly.

I think that is what you can rent a smarty for and do it yourself. I have read posts where technicians at the dealerships don't always know what enabling high idle means and have left in a state of confusion. I would say the price sounds about right as long as everyone knows what is going on. I would hate to see them reflash your ECM with the same program that you already have.

Thanks, I just read your post on the other thread where you explained this.

I know this is going to sound like a silly question to many of you, but do some of the 2nd gens have limited slip diffs and others don't? How can I tell what I have?

Where is the vent?

I'm getting ready to do this as well so I'm also interested in the replies.

I put my fuel boss on a year ago and I have 10,000 miles on it.