dracozny

if your cruise works but no indicator it is most likely either a pinched wire or burned out led. if your cruise does not work, and no indicator it is either a malfunctioning switch, clockspring, wires or worse yet a bad ECM(manual tranny)/PCM(automatic).

problem with that is calibration. if it could self calibrate than sure that be cool. but alas its not

every cummmins owner that sought to ditch the VP for any aspect like bad electronics, diaphragms, etc.. usually swapped to a P-Pump

went with 255/85r16 from a 265/75r16 because of this too try and balance that all out. still need to tally up the numbers to figure out my mpg.

seen this over at CF. its 100% normal. the A/C is used to help dry the air.

combo of issues: [*]the reflectors have probably one of the worst chrome jobs in the industry. [*]the lenses oxidize like mad due to no UV protection. [*]the electrical system is poorly designed, if you feel the light dimmer switch after driving a few minutes it gets very hot to the touch. the multifunction switch absorbs massive amounts of current causing it to burn out. the most road legal solution that is not necessarily the cheapest is [*]get a relay harness (this will supply voltage directly from the battery to the lights improving output)[you will want to get one made for the next suggestion] [*]install sport headlight (has very good chrome on the reflector + the lenses are not fluted like the stock headlight. diffusion is done at the reflector)

finally found someone who bought these and gave an opinion: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showpost.php?p=2730088&postcount=28

if you got the stock headlights just save your money, the chrome finish on them is crap and thats a big reason why dodge headlights suck in general.

I dont do much sand/snow driving just gravel, mud and highway. got some 255/85R16's, a pita to find as cooper is the only manufacturer and they usually get re-branded, but well worth it I think. tires still skinny enough to keep rolling resistance down and tall enough to add to the economy as well. so far they stick to every surface Ive gone through. only paid $175/tire for em too. so I got my spare swapped out to match hopefully they will do well in freezing rain this winter.

I hear ya. wish I had more time each day to work on these. family work etc...

I have yet to see anyone post a review of these. the other projector style had poor reviews, and the other after market one piece headlights have gotten poor reviews. the best non-hid I have heard of is the sport style with the Relay Harness upgrade to run it as a quad high/low beam. and absolute best (non road legal but at least safe for all drivers) is a HID Projector retrofit on an aftermarket or Sport headlight.

they got even cheaper: $107 on ebay they were $117 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310207754772&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D8754294144222189098

well thats the reason bulbs have specific socket sizes, and reflectors are designed to use that size. thats why cutting the tabs on a 9004 headlight socket to fit a 9007 bulb is a fruitless endeavor, yet people still try it just to get an extra 300 Lumen. HID kit manufacturers circumvent socket reflector relation ships when they rebase HID bulbs. eh same tired old subject that I hounded on over at CF ....

Got my plastic in today. manufacturer was nice enough to cut the ABS down to forming size for me because at 48"x96" its too large to ship and too rigid to roll up like the polycarbonate and HIPS.

those are H1 Halogen Projectors. you wont find any HID projectors sold for our trucks. I almost bought that headlight set and was going to do a HID retrofit on it but changed my mind as I did not want to mess with the Halos. plus the 2.5" projectors are a heck of a lot more expensive than the 3" E92's that I bought. the HID kits themselves you can pick up for under $80 shipped, two of the most recommended are DDM and VVME. I bought mine from VVME.

Well I have a slight Snafu with my Project here. because I want to do a quad setup I will have to completely redesign the entire assembly. Originally I wanted to just replace only the headlight bucket and lens which I find will only be feasible on a normal two light setup. My other issue I am contimplating is the rubber flap that sits on the inner most part of the headlight between the lens and the grill. not sure what I want to do there. the hooks are obviously injection molded which would be very costly to reproduce. looking at the pics of aftermarket lights it appears they have done the same thing.on the other end I have purchased enough plastic to produce 12 sets of lights assuming I figure out what I want to do with the design.

Thanks. I am getting to the next chapter on this, just taking me a lil longer than expected.

all those blue and purple hids are 5000k and higher. for some stupid reason people are still hung up on the idea that the higher kelvin rating means they are brighter. or that they look cool. frankly driving around with purple headlights always seemed very stupid to me. I was thinking of setting up some 3000k fogs sometime down the road too. although running a quad beam setup I will have to run an either/or setup one one set when running fogs to keep the cops off my butt.

bought the Projectors off ebay for $75/pair + $12 shipping. bought the HIDS from VVME for $77.90/pair misc nuts and bolts, sheetm metal $24.26 still got more to come on this build, just waiting for my 9CFM 26Hg/in Vacuum pump to be delivered for my vacuum table that was $261 over at harborfreight.com which brings my tooling costs up to about $570. total parts cost before purchasing plastics: $370.99 so if I start selling these it will be very expensive for a quad setup like this but keep in mind this is a crap ton of light too. each bulb new outputs 3,200 lumens so in retrospect were pumping out 12,800 lumens compared to a sport headlight running as a quad beam which is if I remember just about 1,000 lumens on the 9007 bulbs and 780 on the 9006 bulbs = 3,560 lumens thats a difference of 9,240 lumens over 3 and a half times as much light output. so in reality the average owner will not need a quad setup like this but its definitely nice to have.

Thanks, although were still on the easy step

Thanks, and yea it is a bit of work initially. Since I will probably be producing more of these it will get easier. Last bit of work I did for a while till I get my vacuum table built: with the jig setup I then had some brackets to make out of some aluminum I had laying around. mounting hardware top bottom bolted together and lit up next I will show my vacuum table build and then we will move onto the big part making Polycarbonate lenses and ABS housings.

These E92 projectors originally came with D1S holders but we are going to use D2S bulbs. now the difference between a D1s and a D2s is the igniter is attached to the D1s bulb. since we are not using these we have to remove the holders and either procure some Bosch D2S holders or manufacture our own. Next came a whole lot of measuring. as you can see here I have the general outline of the headlight and strategic placement of the projectors lined up I needed a Jig to hold the Projectors while I worked with mounting brackets, I basically wanted to bolt these two together to make it easier with alignment when I get the housings fab'ed up Interestingly the inner Diameter of a 3" Abs pipe is the same diameter as the outside of the lens holder of the projector. although I did have to sand it a tad due to some inconsistencies of the pipe. Next I needed to power the lights up so I can align them so after some reading I found you can power them up with a computer power supply in this case we are using a 400 watt in order to have sufficient power on our 12volt line. jumper the green and one black lead in the ATX plug. then connect the red leads of the Ballast to the yellow wire of the HDD connectors. Lighting output for Alignment. this is off my bedroom wall and no matter how good your camera is it will never show up right in a photo. plus the light is going through the pipe so its a narrow beam projected here

Unfortunately NO.... however with using Projectors I am effectively eliminating glare that would be produced by throwing hids in a stock headlight. the corrected output will result in safe lighting but the DOT/NHTSA does not approve the modification of OEM headlights. by the time I am done the stock housings will most likely be non existent, in which case it could be possible to get NHTSA approval but I have no idea what that involves at this time. As much money as I have shelled out in tooling don't be surprised if you start seeing new headlights with bi-xenon projectors on ebay/craigslist etc..

More to come

now that is a true definition of jerry rigging.