dracozny

unless the 99's never had the option of one i can say for certain that there is no harness on my truck matching that description as i have had the headliner and the A/B columns completely off with no trace of the wires described in the schematic for the computer.

your adjusting tension on a spring so I wouldn't freak too much over what the instructions say and look at the gauge instead. I always keep a test gauge on hand to verify my on-truck gauge is working correctly every oil change. the spring they sent might be just a touch too stiff, I know there has been suggestion that over 20 psi is too much (although documentation by bosch has no max PSI) but I havent seen any evidence supporting that claim maybe mike has I know he suggested it for a long time. for now just keep it at 21 and play with the throttle a bit see where it falls at WOT and then give pureflow a ring about the spring tension, they will usually send a replacement for ya, most times they have issues of springs not stiff enough and needing shimmed, not the other way around..

jeeze that link made me proud to say I am an Oregonian I think that outfit they kept recommending is up in the Portland area, heck most shops are these days

best cement mixer I can think of associated with turning is the rear diff. so my thought is when did you last change your rear diff fluid, here is a thought for you if its burned up (just saying for the sake of a thought process you could have just done a change on it for all i know) then essentially you have large clumps of sludge getting tossed around mainly by the ring, as you round the corner the get pulled up and thud straight down again, under normal acceleration the centrifugal force is enough that they just get slung around and around, producing little noise at all.,

allot of those high end pads use a considerable amount of ceramic, which from my perspective cause more harm in the long run anyways. ceramic will bite into the rotors to produce its stopping power but it doesn't do a very good job of that until its heated the rotor up due to friction at which point the metal becomes softer briefly for the ceramic to bite in and remove metal from the rotor. ceramic is great for a race track circuit but I have seen too many chewed up rotors and failed stop car accidents associated with them. don't get me wrong I have seen chewed up rotors for other reasons as well like neglect! but its a factor to consider.

when companies started doing this my wife was the one who bought the brake pads from some odd company i cant remember I didn't believe her and said ok something isn't right there, well it was a mute point since the receipt was lost long before that issue were to come up.

I bought mine used with 300k on the clock no cracks. still going strong another 75k later, and I know the prev couple owners put her through her paces long before I got her, she still drives like a dream.cummins did offer a 150k mile warranty on the block, which you are just a tad over on. but the claim rate was as posted earlier 1%

I did the same thing as mopar1973man, different gauge but otherwise same performance, was less that $5 at Napa although that could be because my ex's boyfriend works there,

looks like that one only has a water sensor and no heater, the one mopar1973man posted has a heater and no water sensor....

if you want a diesel tundra you have to import one or buy one of those trucks cut in half I forget what its called but its meant to be an unserviceable frame you can still swap everything else out though and have a diesel in the end.

skipping over the political side of things oil and gold as everything else rise with inflation. easily enough wait for the next dip in pricing it might hit $2 again but honestly thats the best point in time for you to start doing some serious investing. the added issues of the middle east ever going tensions and now the japan thing setting further uncertainty over nuclear energy only pushes oil prices ever higher.

sometimes I wish I did too, lol. I use up most of my patience at work then i get home look at the headlights and the clock........ i'm still fidling with the design a bit too the adjustment screws for the projectors i wound up changing a couple times, the initial thought of bolting both projectors together first actually has caused more problems then it solved so i am working out bolting them separately with the ability to adjust the left right up down and rotational of each projector. I don't know if I will keep it that way for the final design or not but it should help atleast in the prototyping faze.

physics still applies your just applying it the wrong way. the brass will shrink from inside to outside diameter, it happens this way because for it to shrink to the inside would cause significant force upon itself like applying pressure to an arch similar effects the more you press on the arch the stronger it gets. but if you push up from the inside of the arch it crumbles with ease.

about 20% more mpg give or take

either buy an aftermarket security system or call your dealer and order a CTC with keyless entry.

after you get it to wig out does it continue until you shut the truck off? or does it stop doing it when you let off the throttle? in either case I am thinking broken wiring or bad ECM because thats all thats left since you replaced your sensor.

check for ground and +5vdc on the connector as well both of these are supplied directly from the ECM, the wire in the middle I believe is the sensor input lead so you wont get anything back from that. well you shouldn't anyways.

overtightning can cause an oring to bunch and twist or even tear so fluid can still leak past. its actually something I deal with on cable connectors sure different in some ways but the o-rings are still a factor

lol I said the same thing a week after I bought my 255's they wear like friggin iron too, still look brand new and I have been running them for almost a year now

stop by a hydraulic shop thats an easy one to fabricate its just a steel line and some ferruls. you can probably get the materials to do it yourself at any autoparts store, homedepot worst case scenario

i would say i know the feeling but the largest tranny I have pulled only weighed around 100 lbs out of a nissan pickup.

mmm there is some old info here and some mixed info.. first off about our trucks unless you are driving a 3rd gen you do not need a "canbus" kit/harness/adapter etc... 2nd gens and older are just regular wires and relays no fancy computer on the headlights. as far as adding auxiliary lights vs doing a retro hey whatever floats your boat its your truck. mounting projectors to the reflector.... most retros I have seen are mounted in a couple ways either bolted to a seperate reflector which as far as i can tell only 2 after market headlights for our trucks actually fit this bill. in many cases the projector is bolted to the headlight assembly itself. there is a third option which the projector is actually bolted to the vehicle but this is not really an option for our trucks. now as far as the NHSTA declaring retrofits illegal there is a loop hole here. they are only illegal if the light output does not comply with FMVSS 108 BUT you actually have to send them in to be tested along with a considerable chunk of $$ on the other hand its really dependent on how well your state and local agencies enforce this issue. in most cases the kit user is more likely to be pulled over. doing a retro and sticking with bulbs around 4300k - 6000k in color will also help keep you off the radar. the moving bulb kit: in general the output is still marginal at best. obviously everyone will have differing opinions heck some say a cheap hid kit is da bomb. amusingly my sport headlights with halogens do better.

id say rebuild the 4500 as a stop gap. the FSO is a friggin tank and definitely worth a look. its one of many upgrades on my list down the road.

I wasn't saying they were bad or anything just noting the similarity. infact I am running the VVME kits with D2S bulbs in my projectors.

just looking at the photos of them the ballast case looks exactly like the ones VVME sells just with a different label. I wouldn't be surprised if they are manufactured by the same Chinese factory outside of Beijing. I point this out because VVME's kits are cheaper.