dracozny

yea just gotta play with some ideas.

Sorry its been a while, had some time to mock up the dual projectors not sure if I will be able to design anything production wise at least for these projectors. the main issue is clearance, its extremely tight, and although I can preset the adjustments using my truck there is no guarantee that it would be correct if they were mounted on another truck. I snapped some pics as best as I could given the lighting available *note the projectors are actually upside down because in my rush to bolt them together they were bolted for the passenger side and I had already yanked the driverside to make my molds.* I think it will look badass but the mounting options will make it difficult. in this one I am showing the clearance of the mounting tabs which hide just behind the sheet metal of the truck in this one you can see the mounting tabs but what you cant see is the bulb and socket are actually brushing against the sheet metal of the truck I can easily do a dual projector instead of a quad here, and in which case I can probably use a fancier projector like an FX-R or TL, in which case I can do a production setup quite easily. my only thought would be to try a smaller projector set to do a dual but the light output comparison would be less quality I think --- Update to the previous post... You know if it were not for that stupid pillar dividing the headlight from the sidemarker/blinker it would fit beautifully.

plus the added issue is many key cutters are not trued up on a regular basis, so its added risk to getting a defunct key. Wal-mart as an example couldn't make a working key if their lives depended on it.

that must be the tidbit i missed as to why it looked odd.

maybe i just got the one defunct pyro gauge ever made it came with the truck though. as far as american made, hey i'm not against buying american, but I still remember my grandfather opening the closet door and it broke off and him yelling cheap american...... but hey cummins is american so id say its not all that bad.

sounds like this thread over at CF http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/269586-thirds-time-charm.html so read it well, maybe i just misunderstood ya, but hes done 2x to 4x swaps and the results were uhm interesting. just looking at the front wheel well you can tell it doesn't look right.

there is also a couple fog relays in the PDC, on my truck the wiring is there but the relays are not, and the light switch in the cab is different than a truck equipped with fogs. there are a couple plugs near the bottom of the bumper on the rad support that are used to connect the fogs up. so in theory you just need a couple relays, the correct headlight switch, and the fog lights.

well even hidplanet I couldnt find an exact answer, the 2nd gen trucks have a bit of a strange setup in some regards. the positive supply line is always hot whether the switch is in any position. so i took some time to design one. I have yet to build this but I think my engineering skills will be fruitful at least. i might need to make a larger picture or just go over to photobucket, although I do not have a premium membership to host it. On the left side is just a generic diagram explaining how the stock wiring is supplying voltage, its not detailed on that part in any way. on the right side is the harness, only thing I forgot really was to add a 20A fuse on the 12volt supply. the only issue we might have is a slight flicker when switching from low to high. I might add a capacitor to the low beam circuit to counteract that if that is the case.

I have auto meter boost and pyro gauges, and I have a glowshift fuel gauge, the glowshift is the most reliable out of the 3, the only thing I dont like about this particular glowshift gauge is the lights are always on. my AM pyro gauge always seems to do whacky things like stop sweeping or even an inverted sweep until I flick it really hard. eventually I will ditch the AM's

never heard of that done considering the youngsters start huffing it. only places to get nitrogen are licensed gas supply shops as far as i am aware, plus a aerosol can will not be able to pressurize a system like this to 150 psi+

solenoid would still give a loud solid click even if the contacts were fried. since he said no noise whatsover I would lean to bad relay or ignition switch. or maybe just a bad spade connector in the PDC which was the problem on my grandpas jeep.

eventually I get to deal with this to some extent, hopefully it won't be as painful. there is a ton of schematics over at hidplanet, they have an entire thread dedicated to building custom harnesses. although you have to be a member to view anything there. might be worth a shot for some ideas at least.

on my truck if I put it in the "ON" position and have the door open it dings a few times and then quits... I think..... I drive soo many vehicles i could be mixing this up

In either case he told me that they are showing signs of stress and if I hear any noises it may be from them. so at some point I need to find some wheels.

according my my tire guy I have one ford 2 chevy and one original dodge wheel. they all look Identical to me.

the ground is supplied by the multifunction switch. try disconnecting from the V/W wire and grounding to the battery instead, if it still blows a fuse I'd say its a bad relay.

no 00-03 use a 3rd gen style hub, 99'2 and below use the other. the only way to do it on a 99 and below is to swap the entire axle with an 00+ because even if you just tried to swap the hubs they will not line up correctly.

well in a digital readout its not an issue as to what psi its capable of reading but in an analog the sweep from 0 - 150 is so large that the needle would barely move vs a gauge that only sweeps between 0 - 30 psi

my fuel psi gauge uses a digital sender even though its an analog gauge. it moves very quickly at WOT so I do not see a problem there. some digital gauges use a concept of polling or averaging over time which is what makes them move slower. i have seen digital displays jump numbers very quickly in other applications, take a fathometer on a ship as an example. gets a bit scary seeing the numbers go from 20 fathoms to 0 instantly when your on a deep draft ship pulling into port.

wish they had that 6 months ago. looks cool and its dim-able, I only have the fuel psi gauge from them and autometers for my boost and pyro. that one is not dim-able. over all though I am happy with it.

when I had 265/75's I had a 235/85 for a spare.

$450 at schucks last I checked. mine seized last year still baking in the cab this year....

I do a lot of mixed road usage so the aggressive tread was desirable in my case. as far as fuel economy I'm not sure on the numbers as around the same time I bought the tires fuel prices started to jack upward and I rarely have had time to hand calculate the mileage, I believe based on the amount of fuel ups I have done per week that these are giving me some positive results.cooper is the only manufacturer so that doesn't surprise me that its the only tread pattern or brand found. the tire shop up here recommends Coopers over Michelin as the tires have a better life span as well as a better warranty period.load range I believe are only found in load range "D" I have not seen any others thats usually not an issue unless your dropping more than 3 tons on the axle without dullies. since most people only haul that much weight in a trailer the distributed load rarely exceeds that especially with a tandem axle trailer.I have no clue on your last question about the wheels.

I'm running 255/85r16 and yea they are a pain to find because cooper is the only manufacturer and they get sold as re-brands. however they can be very affordable if you know where to look, oddly for me the best place was a very small shop in Albany OR, bought 5 tires for $170 each. typical shipping can be anywhere from 2 - 5 days, I got mine shipped from different parts of the country within 3 business days. I swapped the spare to deal with any circumference differences if I need the spare. other issue if you don't have a tuner to deal with it your speedo will be out of cal, not much of an issue to me as its been out of cal probably for the last 200k miles anyways.

best option I am aware of as an alternative for wiring the pump is off the ignition wire.