AGPTurbo

Confirmation on the lockup switch and 33 ohm resistor on the ground leg with relay re-installed. Works like a charm- Now to get the codes cleared and see if they come back.

I think it would make the tap job a bit easier when using the 11/32. I do believe that the 21/64 is a reamer size. Meaning that the npt style thread is tapered and the reamer will angle the hole to make the tap fit perfectly. Not entirely necessary for this job.

Either way, I'm glad things worked out. It just seems silly to ask a question like that, when you would have to assume, this site is a passion and not a business. If it were a money maker we'd all have one.

Not a personal attack? Nice approach man. I shelled out the ten beans my questions asked. Best site out there for these trucks.

Thanks ED. I'll get the codes cleared an re-install the relay. I think I have a 33 ohm here somewhere.

Mike, I read through those before I posted. I don't have access to the scanners mentioned in the 0622 process. I did do some research and I found that some people have had success with re-installing the trans lockup relay and adding a 33 ohm resistor along with the lockup switch mod to keep the rest of the codes from popping up. Maybe I'll get the ALT tested and check the connections after work. Also, truck drove fine yesterday AM to work, and today to work temps in the 30's. And on the way home is when it did it, temps in the 50's.

So after hauling home a new 5th wheel project today, I noticed that my new transmission gauge seemed inop. I tore down the dash and found the tap splice I used may have had an intermittent connection ( I hate those things) so I switched out a butt connector and that seemed to fix it. As I was there putting the dash back together, I figured I'd check the trouble codes for fun. It spit out the following: P0622 P0743 P1693 P1765 Now I had noticed wayyy back in fall that the trans had shifted in and out of OD on the highway a few times on a few separate days but quit. I have since then installed a lockup switch on the dash. Would the lockup switch cause the codes because you are messing with the transmission signals- so to speak? I did test the alternator with my MM and got .01- .02 VAC, not alarming. I also read the trouble code trouble shooter on the info pages, but I don't have a scan tool that can freeze frame and what not. Could it be my 3 day old EZ causing this? I don't know how long these codes were present. Any thoughts?

Got the EZ hooked up! Great little box, perfect amount of power. Hardest part was getting the map sensor clip off, mine was spun to the back of the engine, and also getting the switch plug through the firewall grommet with all of my gauge wiring/tubing. Position 3 is really powerful, and the engine sounds different to me when on the fuel. Also, boost fooling is confirmed as I ran it up to around 32 PSI on the way home today, and normally de-fuels at 25 or so. I installed the switch in the bezel behind the tilt wheel lever and used a silver sharpie to make dots next to it showing the level position, I really figured they would provide a labeled plate to mount the switch on. All in all, its like driving a completely different truck. As far as the waterproof enclosure, I'm going to wait after driving on a trip to see if the module produces any heat. Anyway- thanks for all the replies. BTW- AutoZone took the coupon, so $311 before tax, shipped to my door!

Did you have the Batts disconnected? Try an apps reset.

How about a valve hanging open for a split second? Maybe pull the valve cover and watch while cranking?

Did mine last Saturday, took about ten minutes. Truck off, 1/8 drill, then 21/64. Then 1/8-27 npt tap in a 3/8 socket with 3/8 ratchet. Half turn forward, quarter turn back until tap is run 80 percent in. Then I shop vac-ed the hole and fished magnet around. No problem 300 degrees idle 600 normal hill 900 hard acceleration. Love the gauges!

Hey Sean, Welcome to the forum- these guys will get you fixed up in no time. Although I've never taken mine apart, I'm very suspect as well of your injectors being plugged and not atomizing the fuel. If you are up for it, there is a guy named Pepsi (I do believe) who has a great how to vid on removing and installing the injectors, and Mike (mopar1973man himself) has a great you-tube video on cleaning the injectors once they are out. If it were my dollars, I'd try cleaning and re-installing before I throw any money after it. You came to the right place if you want a no BS, not worried about blowing "Black Smoke" or "rolling coal" approach to getting these 24V motors running perfectly. I'll see if I can link those vids for you. Andrew *EDIT* Those videos are available here, in the how to section of the main menu. I do believe you have to be a paid member to see them, but the money will be well spent. This is the ONLY Cummins forum I have ever belonged to.

Fuse blew from me moving the ground while the lights were on, the spark of the ground disconnecting must have blown it. I wasn't sure the dash lights had their own fuse, and after driving to work in the dark was just nervous it was something bigger.

Matt, I'll look at that with mine. At least a zip lock or something. Anyway, I just got an email that my EZ has shipped so that means they took the coupon. I was getting a little nervous since I ordered it a few days ago. You can also put the code on a Comp or juice. It made the comp only $435 btw.

Cool. Thanks for the replies. I'll update when I get it hooked up.

I agree. Just talking base numbers of an engine that was jammed in a pickup truck. I drive a tri axle 379 Pete with a tri axle low boy on occasion with a 600 cummins twisting an 18 speed. I always wondered what that would be like turned up. It's damn fast, and will pass anything loaded or not- it's scary actually that you can make 60k pounds empty move like that.

So the sales rep, who they are paying to make sales, could have cost them a $390 sale if it weren't for this board. Maybe they should sponsor huh? I even asked him, should I upgrade to the COMP?, and he said it didn't either. I rest assured that it does based on this board and not the EDGE corp. Pretty messed up huh?

Question: Now I've searched this before but, I just called EDGE and a guy who did not seem real sure of himself told me that neither the EZ or COMP does boost fooling. I asked him if there is any place I could read technical data and he said no. Is he right or wrong? Why would the EZ hook to the MAP sensor if it didn't?

FIXED Thanks again

****. Thanks Mike!

Is there a specific fuse in the truck or under the hood? Not to ask such simple questions, but I cant get to the truck Thanks

Guys, backed out of the drive today and realized that my dash lights were not on. I just hooked up my a pillar gauges over the weekend and all of the lights were fine, now they and all other dash lights are off. I have a backup camera in my truck and was messing with the wire taps in the fuse box in the cab, but I don't know if anything is related. Since I cant go out to the truck I figured I'd ask if anyone knows where the fuse may be, so I can run out a t lunch. BTW The radio , overhead display and I believe all other lights , pwr mirrors and mirrors were working on the way in. Thanks

That is amazing. The 24v made twice the rated power without porting, polishing, intake manifolds etc. Like a gas motor would need. That's more power than class 8 tractor trailers made until the late 90's! Cool!

Just ordered an EZ form AutoZone of all places for my 2002 (part # 30201)They carry them, as well as the entire line of Edge products and I was able to use code "20TAX10" on the online order. Total was 333.00 shipped to me including tax, only 311 if no tax. Also, I got a 10 dollar gift card with the order, So $323 I thought was a good price. I figure I'll start with the EZ, then trade for a comp If/When I do transmission work. Hope someone can use this code for a deal.

Gauges in, and working well. I put the EV control boxes on either side of the steel dash framework once you remove the lover column cover. Cant wait to tow!