AGPTurbo

So was it CPP or Fass that made the error? I was thinking of doing some business with them as they are only about an hour from me.

That's what I've come up with as well. I'm going to get the gauges tomorrow. I saw Vulcan is listed on the vendors site- any discounts?

OK, so I think I've made up my mind, but.... Does anyone know if the Edge JWA CS comes with all of the gauge wiring/harnesses or are each one sold separate? If they are all extra, I'm going to get a 3 gauge Isspro EV mechanical set from Vulcan (Egt, Boost, Trans Temp)instead, and either an EZ or a Comp, once I determine that everything is running OK with the gauges. Anyone know whats included??? PS: If anyone is in the market, I think I can get an Edge for $333 to my door, a Comp for $436 or a JWA CS for $710, shipped from a national parts chain using a coupon code. I have gone all the way through the purchase until clicking the last button, so it seems the coupon is working. I don't want to post it here for fear of it being overused but if you PM me I'll tell you the store and code.

My truck has a definite sweet spot around 1750-1800 rpm, and in that zone I'm doing a tick over 65. If I remember Caj Flynn posted something about that sweet spot at one time. Mike, maybe give that a shot sometime and see if it makes a difference to your truck, although I do have an auto.

I bought a 190 Stant at Advance last January, and it worked well until the last week or so (of course a month out of 1 year warranty), So I stopped at NAPA today and picked up a part #375-190. I got home and swapped them out, and realized they were identical. Soooo, I look on the NAPA box and lo and behold- Stant Corporation. I'll see how this one does from cold start tomorrow.

Well, I'm passing on the Edge model 30200, and holding out for a definite fit 30201. I am trying to do this on a shoestring, so used EZ is best for now with hopes of adding a Juice later when money permits. I too agree with the torque curve, my mileage with the stock 16's and 245's at 55-60 was usually around 18-19, and did better at 65-mph to the tune of 22-23 mpg. With the new dura-grapplers in the 265/70 size, the mileage is best around 65-70 and runs 21-22.

I found a used Edge #30200 with a lead with a 3-position toggle, the manual is marked for 98.5 to 2002, And in the box looks to be an adapter to fit the different MAP ends. Can anyone confirm or deny that this will work on my '02 that should use part #030201? I have searched the forum here and Google, and the i found one topic that says the boxes are programmed differently and another guy says that was incorrect, that wit will fit and work fine with the adapter,in fact they sell the adapter separate. Thanks gents. AP

I agree. But what is more sad is that dodge didn't formulate or spec the plastic properly.

Check geno's, I saw the spray in the paper catalog the other day

The torque pro app seems awesome. I was just concerned with the way our tucks are set up with essentially 2 brains working together because of the separate manufacturer computers. Doing some searching on this site, I saw some talk about the appropriate pid's for certain app communications, but I'm guessing the improvements in the little devices have come a long way. The link for the bafx seems like it is the most popular and reliable, and looks pretty powerful when combined with the torque pro app.

Anyone using these Bluetooth devices on our trucks? http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WOQLh1iGN60 Seems like a good deal for ten bucks plus a 5 Dollar app. I was looking at a scan gauge, but this looks pretty interesting. Any thoughts?

Unless you want to sell it at a nice price?

Hey guys, Just messing around on the computer this afternoon and found something I hadn't seen on this forum, though I've seen this truck on here, and have also seen Mike reference it a few times, but I came across a video of it here: From what I've read this truck was hit and totaled? Still pretty cool to see it in the flesh. AP

I'd like to find an edge ez or comp used as they are pretty pricey. I don't have a full gauge set so a new juice cs may be the best option.

That's awesome, Thank you for that. Next question, I see you have a website- it would be worth my money to have someone like yourself round up the needed parts and send them in a kit. Is that something you would offer?

That's way more thorough than I thought you would be. I really appreciate the reply and understand the items you mentioned and now wish you were a bit closer to Pittsburgh. If I get the superior kit, is it still a diy job? I'd go for the transducer and governor at the same time, is there anything else I can do with it in the truck to help with the loaded 2 3 shift? That's my main concern while in that speed range while fighting the torque management for forward momentum.

So the edge boxes are a trans blower for sure? I don't beat up on my truck, and would like an extra 25-50 hp just to move my 5th wheel a bit easier (10K Max load). My biggest concern is not the highway, but the way it pulls in the 2-3 shift area on back roads. Maybe I should go to a full manual valve body, but, I was going to add a shift kit, adjust the bands and change fluid. I'm only at 115K miles, do you guys think it will still burn it up?

Thanks for the reply. I may go ahead and do it anyway, my trans seems very strong, although I hate to even talk about it! Dynamic, what is the major issue that you don't like? I've looked up the Superior kit, and it seems to come with less parts and is not Diesel specific. Also, the Transgo SKFOD kit no longer has the resistor in it to fool the pressure switch, and has been changed to new springs. I'd hate to buy another $60 kit that is essentially the same. Thanks in advance. AP

Just to add on here, I did my box about 2 months ago with a Napa reman. I went to napa to avoid a revealed and painted junker Cardone. The Napa box had a name that I looked up after installing, and guess what, it's a re labeled cardone! It was nice and tight with no wander for about 3 weeks, but she got back to the way the old one was in about 6 weeks. I have since adjusted the bearing jam nut and that seemed to help for sure, I'll do the over center next- but it sucks that I have had to do this at all. Anyone else doing this, it's not hard but not something I want to do again. Anyone know of an off the shelf quality rebuild available locally?

Rlane, thanks for the details of getting things right with your new trans. If I could ask a question, do you think any part of your old trans failure was due to the shift kit you installed earlier in the year? I was on that post and bought the skf diesel kit based on your results and have yet to install it. I was going to do the job thing week and noticed your post here. Any insight to that, or do you think it was isolated to pump failure? Thanks. AP

Been busy for the last few months and haven't posted, but I'm seeing some good info here. And not meaning to hijack this thread, I was wondering if this is safe for a stock trans? I have a 2002 with the 3.55 and tow a 27' 5th wheel that grosses out at 11K pounds. The truck has 110K miles on it and runs like a beast. The trans is strong , I believe the original and likes to run the camper around 70 MPH. The truck gets round 12-13 mpg towing the 5er which is amazing compared to my gas super Duty's 7-8 mpg on the same camper. Climbing grades the trans will stay locked up until I choose to let off and take it out of OD. What I don't like is on steeper grades and at slower speeds the trans seems to be wanting to shift but wont or chooses to do it veeeeerrryyy slooooowly. I drive it gently when towing but think this mod would go a long way for me. SO to recap: I need to intall a dash lockup switch by jumping some wires and fill in some ports with jb weld as listed in the link and don't let it shift while locked and I'll be OK? I would love to hit the lockup switch and take out of OD on downgrades and actually have the truck slow down. Will this help with that? Thanks Andrew

The crown of the road is causing nothing. The engineering of the steering and suspension geometry is the cause. This is the 14th vehicle I have owned and besides the one with a lift kit, has the worst road manners of them all. I towed my 5th wheel around 3K miles last summer on an east coast adventure with my Ford. I could have fallen asleep at the wheel towing the 9,000 lb beast and looked less suspicious :cheers:than this Dodge. I will check the track bar and report. Thanks for the replies! AP

Looks like another hundred bucks. At least the fuel economy of this pig is offsetting these initital repairs. I'm getting a little super duty homesick, but i know that these first repairs are due to a lazy or cheap PO

Is it better to order bushings, or jusr swap for the moog?

So I've been waiting to do a few things to the truck before I brought this up. I have done some searches and found some things on some other diesel sites and it seems common to the 2nd gen 4x4 trucks. My truck pulls to the right fairly consistently. I noticed it the first day , the outside right front tire is showing scrub marks and wear. I got an alignment this week at a pretty good local shop- they said it was pretty close, only a toe adjustment. Today , I swapped front tires side to side, replaced the original steering stabilizer and the two front shocks. It now rides smoother and isn't so fast to wander, but still pulls right. Next is going to be swapping out the front calipers- but changing parts on this truck isn't exactly cheap. Anyone else dealt with this?