AGPTurbo

BTW, Is the turbo flange gasket reusable if it comes out in one piece?

That would be awesome! But----lets hope it doesn't come to that! AP

CT, Thanks. I have an auto with a hard lined pressure tube, so its the HY35 for me. I'm not looking for power, I'm getting a P0234 code, and from discussions the consensus is a stuck waste gate. I need to service it, and figure I'd take it off and try to get the lever/ arm moving again. Looks like a weekend project, its my daily driver. Thanks for the reply.

Ok, Tried to get the turbo off of the manifold. I got the two top nuts easy- they still look kinds like stainless, but the bottom 2 are a no go. I assume now that its prob easier to take off the entire manifold. So what gaskets will I need- manifold gaskets, turbo to manifold gasket- are there any others? Also , is there a way to test the waste gate? The short vacuum hose(?) on mine has such a small bend, I don't see any way to put air pressure to it. Anyone out there done this? AP

Thanks man, Is the best remedy just to replace the valve assembly? Or is there a chance to clean the valve.

Mike, Code is P 0234 not 0236. MY fault.

Jones, I'm having the same questions. I will use my truck to travel long distances/ road trips. I don't want to put a system on that could break down and leave me with no chance for getting spare parts. I was thinking of doing an airtex relocation frame mount, and just carrying a spare. I hear everyone say that we need to upgrade to a FASS or Airdog, but then those same people write about motor failures, spring failures, leaking housings etc. I like stock and I love the pump moved to the frame idea. Unless there is a way to mount a FASS or Airdog stock style replacement pump to the frame, and still carry a spare Airtex to swap in an emergency. AP

Not like I'm fighting the engine, but it seems like it would be happier in neutral at a red light. AP

So the Map sensor failure is unlikely, then it must be stuck waste gate? In the procedure hyou noted, I guess I can substitute the 3X key movement for the DRBIII® scan tool?

Eddie, I literally just came in from adjusting mine and saw this post. The threaded adjuster can be run down the threads a few inches judging by the pictures you posted. I did the wheel adjustments first by raising the rear of the truck, blocking the front wheels and putting the t-case in neutral. Then begin by adjusting the star wheels behind the rubber plugs until you just hear the shoes drag when spinning the tires. I still couldn't get the parking brake pedal to come all the way up enough to turn off the light off on its own, so I began to adjust the cables at the threaded adjuster you are showing. I didn't have a socket deep enough, so I cut off about an inch of the treads on the forward end. Then its a 13mm deep well, some PB and vice grips to adjust. Be sure to use a wire brush to knock scale off of the adjuster threads if you can, and begin to turn slowly in each direction. Then once is starts to spin easy, tighten to remove slack. I took about an inch of slack out of mine, now she works perfect! These types of systems works well when its used daily , periodically adjusted, and lubed when needed. The upper (passenger side) cable gets pulled by the main cable and it takes the drivers cable along for the ride. So I agree yours looks ok. Hope this helps ya. AP

Would my MAP code be the culprit for the overboost? Thats what the condition is for the P0236. Is this usually a dirty MAP?

Ya, im working on a new pump, but dont have 500 extra to drop this month

I do have a map code but no codes for apps, and its the same as regular driving at about 10psi on the highway and never went below 7 or so even when pulling out from a light on a grade. I think its just the way the trans operates , plenty of power but not exactly a mind reader. Like i said, once it locks up its like a freight train!

Hey gang, Pulled with my 2 week old (to me) 2002 today. Took my 78 ford on my tandem car trailer 50 miles to a paint shop today with mixed highway, 2 lane driving. First, I was surprised as to how much it was taxing the engine, until I pulled of a ramp and smelled brakes burning and found my drivers e-brake was hung up. After that I could not believe this motor. Pulling my 78 with ease, up grades at 65 mph light pedal would not even be a fantasy in my old 08 super duty. I got 15.5 mpg round trip today, temps in the high 20's. So, what I'm here to ask is if my power curve is normal. My truck is an auto, and is shifts great. Truck pulls out fine, and when the converter locks up on the highway it pulls my truck and trailer like it was only a sack of cement in the bed. The question I want answered is about 2nd and 3rd gear Its as if the truck runs out of power at 2500 rpm in 2nd, then 3rd gets better but similar. Its as if the truck wont build power after 2500, or that the transmission wont get out of the engines way. I can press the throttle, to the floor but gain in rpm is minimal after 2500. could this be something with the APPS? Its almost as if I'm not getting the fuel I'm demanding in those gears and RPM range. First gear I can take it past 3000 rpm, so will 4th I'm sure of it (though I haven't tried it yet) How about you other auto guys? AP

JAG, As I told you in another post, my winch was frayed at the end and the spare was in the bed. I ordered a new winch ( Part # 52058707) from Berry Dodge in Corsicana, TX- 89.70 for the winch, local dealer in Pittsburgh wanted $168 for same part. I have found they have the most unreal prices on factory parts, and will actually take the time to look up parts and drawings - even after you tell them its for a 12 year old truck. Anyway, I completed this today- the winch is held on by 4 bolts, from the top, and they are in a very tight spot. You will need to spray the exposed thread with some PB Blaster and reach your hand through the holes in the cross-member. 3 of 4 were had with a 13mm socket on a 3/8 drive ratchet, the one towards the drivers side rear had to be taken with a 13mm open end wrench. Very easy swap out with some interesting contorting (The rear diff makes an excellent pillow!) Interesting to note the winch is not cheap- but is made in USA! Good luck with your repair AP

I wa looking at the FASS stock style replacement and it didnt get such good reviews, but the were a tad old. Same with the airdog, lots about leaking from the internals. Still undecided

For anyone that was following this, I just got the paperwork from the dealer, PO had the lift pump replaced 4/5/2013 with a pump part # of E7153 that looks up as an Airtex. It's flowing 15-16 idle, 10 hwy, 5 wot- I put a FP gauge on it a week after purchasing the truck. ++++++Just to reinforce what everyone should have already heeded on these 24V engines- The lift pump was replaced 4/5/13 and the same shop then replaced the VP on 5/2/13!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! BTW- I'm looking to replace it with an Airdog 100- if anyone has any experience with that, please let me know

JAG1, from the looks of it, it broke near the tire retainer because it is gone. I have not taken it off yet, maybe today, but I thought it either snapped from rust (The truck is clean , so I'm not so sure about that) or, it was stuck in the up position when someone got a flat and they hacked/shredded the cables to get the tire down. I'll let you know more when I get it all done. AP

I'm getting ready to buy, but I wanted to know 2 things- 1. Can the mpg switch can be selected/ deselected at any time- or is there ever really a need to turn it off? 2. Ed, I would like the overhead version- maybe to fit in/on/under the garage door opener compartment- could we work soemething out? AP

My napa is good with prices, but I pay through a cash account for a construction co. I work for in the summer. Yours prob can get close if they want to make the sale. On a side note, I just got a new spare tire winch for the snapped one my truck came with and a new grid heater battery to lug jumper for the hacked one on my truck from a place called dodgepart.net. I got both with shipping for less than my dealer wanted for the winch alone. Obiously it pays to shop around on any truck purchase! AP

Well, looks ike my local Napa will be 46.08 for the 2790 and 34.08 for the 6637. I'm going to look under the hood and check things out tonight. Thanks guys. AP

I'm going to call Napa today. I know that Wix and Napa gold are the same filters, just re-boxed. It will come down to price at the local store, and if I can get the plans for Mikes shield to work, I'll cut it on a CNC plasma. Thanks for all of the replies.

Good to know. I just got the truck and someone had just put a K&N filter in it I'd say in the last 10K miles. I want it gone soon, but wasn't sure I want to spend 60 -80 on a filter. Are both of the Napa filters a direct fit (minus the airbox removal of course)? AP

Ive done some serious searching and written down a bunch of part numbers- but what I havent read explicitly is that the bhaf does anything for general mpg. So does it? Thanks!

I use mine everyday in the winter, Driveway is a pretty steep slope, 200ft with a 90 degree uphill left in the middle. Grabbing the lever and gettin' it on the roll is way better than my auto t case in my old super duty.