AGPTurbo

Update on yesterdays adventure- So I broke the bolt on the castor adjustment on the lower control arm. I decided that instead of trying to track down bushings and press them in that getting new arms was the best idea for me. And that I better replace both as a set because the passenger side was stuck as well. Everything was a fight, ended cutting off both forward and rear bolts for the control arm with a sawzall using lenox blades. Went through pretty easy but not a lot of room under the truck in the garage . I was able to source both the Castor adjusting bolts from NAPA, Of course 2 different stores (my luck) sold in a kit of 2 bolts, 2 nuts, and 4 castor plates for $32 ( Part # 264-3734 ), as well as new lower control arms for $70.09 each ( Part # 260-5591 ), and 2 replacement bolts for the rearward bolt ( Metric 8.8 16X2X110). The other options were to get new bushings for around 20-30 each end, but they are press fit, and I didn't feel it was worth my time, not to mention the forward end of the arms were looking a little crusty. And the local dealer stocked the bolts for 16 each- plus nuts, plus plates. Now, I put everything back together and was liberal with the anti-seize inside of the bushing tubes. I adjusted the castor to about 85% of the max for starters, I will run it to work a few times to let everything settle in, but adjusting the Castor and replacing the arms definitely has helped with the general steering feel of the truck. The other noteworthy item here, is that the lower bolts are completely frozen in the bushing due to the d shaped bolt design and water and salt infiltration, so the only thing giving on the front suspension is torsion of the rubber, making the ride stiff and unpredictable. I also rotated the tires and brought the fronts up to 60 from 53, so I'm hoping this will all help to clear this up. I think I am also going to order the upper arms and bolts as well to see if it helps with the ride. Hope the part numbers help someone.

Aaaannnnddddd snapped the adjuster bolt in seconds. Heated, sprayed, and SNAP. So hope I can find this adjuster bolt somewhere, and hope I can get the saw in there to cut off the old bolt. Then I need to see if I can press out the old bushing. What an adventure so far.

Update: So I've had the brace for a few days, and its made tremendous improvements on any road but the freeway. Back roads and local cruising, It feels like a different vehicle. On the freeway, like WildandFree mentioned, it doesn't do a heck of a lot., due to the speed of the vehicle. I'm planning on getting under there this weekend and cranking the castor and I'll update again after that.

I just got my gauges from vulcan today and was surprised the isspro trans temp and egt have a control box on them, I thought they would be pure mechanical. Hope to get them on this weekend.

Looks like the cast of "cars"

My truck is a 115k stocker. It was about as unmolested as you can get, complete with old man style running boards. I'm the first person to do anything to it really, it had stock radio, stock airbox, stock size tires. Body is one of the cleanest I have seen around here. Must be luck of the draw from what I can tell I'll update after I crank uo this castor. On another note, does anyone's steering lock when the key is removed? Mine doesn't.

On second thought, I sprayed the bolts, Ill try tommorrow

I just looked it up in the FSM. I'm going to go try it right now.

Everything else under there is tight, that's what I don't get. Maybe I'll crank up the castor adjustments next? Is there a procedure for it anywhere? I've heard many mention it but have never seen a write up.

I would due to not wanting to pull all of that junk off twice. Although, I'm not sure how many friends it takes to get the head on and off!

Have a look at this, from page 903 in the 2001 Version of the FSM, the WTS light and Brake indicator light do share a line of some type in the cluster itself. Is it possible the brake indicator is back feeding?

Doesn't the IAT temp sensor output the signal and control the lamp illumination? Is there a possibility the wires for it are being shorted to ground causing it to remain on?

Glad to hear you are warming up! Back to the single digits here again tomorrow.

I guess the only real fix seems to be the borgeson box? Mine didn't steer great with the stock 245's either, and honestly didn't change at all with the new 265's

Yes. 4x4 torchmate. Cuts pretty good after a year of trial and error.

Sounds like a blessing in disguise! I've played around with some fine detail stuff but nothing big. I did make this hitch cover from 1/8" plate and 16Ga 2x2 box section.

Add the modifier then do some slow figure 8's in a parking lot. You should feel it clear up in a few minutes. Check your glove box door for the limited slip tag.

Guys, just put on a steering brace tonight, great mod for me. I spent about an hour taking my time and torquing everything to spec, as well as greasing other fittings while I was under there. Took it for a ride and steering is much tighter with less road wander and better feel. I did swap my steering gear for a reman NAPA back in September, but it already lost that lovin' feelin' - if you know what I mean. If anyone is interested its a one piece " Big D " brace, and I can give the link to anyone who Pm's me. Here's a pic, one piece 1/4" plate.

Thanks guys. As soon as I get the money, the Fuel Boss is going in. Please update if you have any reservations or problems in the future. AP

Your mileage must be horrendous. I replaced mine with a stant then a NAPA, and jokes on me they are the same build. Hope you get that addressed soon.

Check the glove box door tag as well.

That bumper is sweet! I have a cnc plasma available to me and I'm not sure I could make it that nice- well done df.

Thanks Hawkez Can a anyone beat that?

Well, mine is zip tied up near the spare now since it mysteriously began dragging on the road . Must be a factory clip that holds in near the fuel tank somewhere

Hawkez, IBMobile, and CT if you're out there, since you guys brought it up, how many miles would you guys say you have on the Fuel boss? I am happy with my airtex in the stock location but after I install the rest of my gauges (fuel pressure was put on a year ago) and I add a comp or ez, I'm going to get the boss. I love the redundancy of the stocker for backup since we do PA to Florida twice a year. Any input would be appreciated.