AGPTurbo

I just added a can yesterday. I get about a month out of a can before it gets borderline not cold enough. I use a cheap can and one with oil the next time. If I get some time this summer, I'll do the evap with Mike's video.

I love my Nitto Dura Grapplers. So far about 10k on them, and they still look like new. Agreesive appearance, smooth quiet ride and very stable towing the 5th wheel. I did a lot of research before buying these, and I'm pretty confident I'll buy them again. Mine have the dura belt warranty as well.

With an automatic, I could give 2 beans about cutting into the rotors. I want the HIGHEST metal content I can find so I can stop this 3.5 ton pig without hitting anything. Best I've found are the severe duty wagners. I think amazon or rock auto- like 29 bucks maybe? Major improvement.

Mine had one at 102k. Lift pimp died and was changed the week before the vp died and was changed. All on the PO'S dime.

I think the 3.55 gears are the stuff in these trucks. I was skeptical when I bought mine but have learned to love them. As for towing, no problem with towing in OD, just take it out when it feels like it's starting to struggle. I installed my gauges this winter and towed our camper to Fla. and back with no issues at 70 mph. The tranny gauge never went over 130 on the interstate at all. Only time I noticed it struggle is when I'd lock up the converter in 3rd a touch too early with the mystery switch and it would give me a little shudder which I would cure by getting out of the throttle. Stock trans BTW.

I know from doing mine I threw a code on a 2002 without a 33 ohm resistor and I did a ton of reading while trying to solve it and remember that anyone who installed an indicator light of any type- even a lighted switch had trouble.

How bout renting an acetylene torch and just blowing it out?

Did you try to tighten the ball joint press, then while it's tight, whack the tension bolt good and hard, snug again, and whack again and repeat. Heating the knuckle in one spot (thinnest) will help to open the bore like a hinge as well.

Wife got me one at costco for Christmas. It's a yada brand but I'm sure it's made by someone else. It is wireless and is crystal clear with a 5 inch color screen. Makes life easier for sure, and I wired it to steady power so I can see back there anytime I want.

I see you have an auto- how did you boost elbow on an hy?

Thanks so much. This works perfectly, and did not require any new speakers. Just bypass the amp and you're good to go. Thanks again

So if that checks out, I can grab a set of 6x9's, make the wiring change as ricochet mentioned above and I'll be back in business. If the radio could power the speakers, I wonder what the purpose of the amp was in the first place.

Just got back from the 2000 mile trip. Truck ran awesome and I averaged 12.5 mpg over 2100 miles with the ez on 3 most of the time. The real issue with the turnbuckle is that it builds so much boost, the truck won't go over 70 or so on any type of grade and when you get to a 5 percent or more hill, it slows to 55 or 60- not because the motor can't do it, but because of the defuelling. I still need to check the codes

Not to be silly, but, how full are you filling it? And what brand of Ps fluid?

Ok guys, thanks for the help so far. I took out the radio and probed all the colors that matched up as printed on the radio itself, and I get good ac voltage at the appropriate times when adjusting the fader tto the left side speakers. I also took apart the loom in the door jamb and checked the cconnectors and wires and they looked good. I also probed the wires that connect to the drivers door speaker and I'm getting 12v in the bottom center 2 pins that should power this "amp". I assume that means this "amp" is bad as I have no sound from all 3 left speakers. Would everyone agree?

I bought a standard napa that is made by gates just last week. No more shutdown chirp.

Not sure. I have cd/tape with pillar tweets. I don't think it's anything special. I did some reading and there are many issues with door loom wire breaks. I'll look there first.

I suddenly have no sound from front or rear left speakers. Any ideas before I tear into it?

I didn't look but good idea. No light though.

Youngblood, that's the same brace I bought and I like it too. Love the simple 1 piece design, and that it won't rot inside like the box tube ones might. I just pulled my 5th wheel to Florida and I thought the truck was pretty stable, except when being passed by other vehicles, even cars at times. I'm going to tighten up the box a little bit more before I head home and see if that helps.

Update today and help needed: Pulled the 9000lb. 5th wheel 1000 miles in about 24 hours time to Florida. Used the ez on level 3 most of the time and it ran awesome. Just the power increase I was looking for and really liked the fuel economy, averaged about 12 mpg on the way down with about 350 miles mountain and windy interstate. Now, about the boost fooling- I put a simple turnbuckle on my hy 35 before I left to help it build pressure. I am now wondering if I should pull it off because of the abrupt defuellung at 28 to 30 lbs of boost (telling me the ez does not in fact do fooling. Though, I've never seen boost that high before, I attribute it to the ez's fuel increase) Would it be better to leave it on and defuel, or take it off and let the waste gate open? My thoughts would be the gate opening would keep the fuel coming , but would raise egt temps. Fyi, the trans ran 110 to 130 in overdrive for 95 percent of the drive, only heating to about 180 once in slow traffic. Egt's ran 900 most of the ride, with 600 lows to 1100 highs in the mountains lugging before shifting out of OD. What do you guys think?

I want to change my fronts to a lower setting but I think I'll keep them at 60 or so during my long camper tow coming up.

This is awesome to see people helping each other like this! Keep your eyes peeled, I'm towing 2000 miles round trip over the next ten days.

OK, back at this steering again. I finally decided I couldn't live with it wandering all over the place. I got under the truck and adjusted the sector shaft screw until it was tight minus 3/4 turn. Absolutely while new truck- steering feels light, returns to center and drives true to where you point it. Even if it chews up the box, which I doubt it will after seeing how the shafts are set up, I have a lifetime warranty. Otherwise everything on my truck is tight in the front end. I even laid on the garage floor and put my feet on one tire and pushed with my hands on the other while one wheel was on the jack and there was zero play. That was the point I gave the adjustment a try because there were no other options. Brings me to the conclusion that the reman box was set to a random spot and left that way. I'll update if something crazy happens

I've seen this video before and after sawing at the wheel after a steering brace, new lower control arms, a castor adjustment, rotating tires and changing air pressure I decided it was worth a shot. My toe was in about 5/8 of an inch so I set it dead even for starters and I like it! Seems way more manageable on the road. Also I noticed by rotating the position of the drag link I can see the right tire move a hair. I think this is where the wandering is coming from on these trucks. The actual motion of all of the variable components cause the toe to constantly adjust as you drive. I'll give this a shot for a few days.