Me78569

I don't like towing with wiretap personally. I would leave it on lvl3 towing. A killer tow setup with be 7 x .010's and that 57. 66lb/min is a good 400 hp worth of towing air. that is a CONSIDERABLE upgrade over what you have now. All diesel guys love the idea of 500+ hp, but more often than not a 350 hp setup is more than enough to make you smile. We all suffer from the hp drive. Not to downplay the 62/68/12 setup as that is a tried and true 500 hp DD / tow setup but I would personally be looking at the 57 if I was towing a lot and mulling over the idea of twins down the road. either choice will work, the 62 will have more power up top the 57 will outspool the 62. if the truck is more of a toy then 62 if it is more of a work horse then 57

they are different slightly, but it is easy to come to terms with the differences if your drivers side is bad enough.

a 2nd gen was not designed to tow / work hard at 500 hp. Nothing about the platform is tough enough for that in my mind. Even big compound guys don't tow while putting 500+ hp to the ground. Its difficult to make a 2nd gen be both a toy and a reliable work horse above 550-600 hp. Orings are not really needed in my mind for a tow applications. Studs are plenty fine.

Your ultimate power goal dictates your path. A single at 500 hp can still tow very nice.

Not much to explain, Did this on my truck. remove passenger side > install to driver side.

depends on his goals. What he said up front makes the suggestions that follow. If compounds are not the goal or the end hp goal is greater than 500 hp I would suggest a 62 to start with. However proper tuning + 7 x .010's and a 57 + 69 setup would be a pretty killer towing setup. honestly the 57 solo will support more HP worth of air than a 2nd gen should be towing with anyways. 350 whp is more than enough to tow anything a 2nd gen frame can support. egt's wont be an issue with 7 x .010's and the 57 assuming a decent tune.

@dieselautopower with your goals I might consider some 7 x .010's and a 57 gxe + a 69 sxe compound setup. That thing would spool stupid fast and keep you plenty cool at 500 hp.

Well We have finished up with all the hard stuff. Bank says the house is worth what we are asking so now we just wait for closing. We are offically moving the 8th or 9th and I will be able to drink a beer on my porch on the river in t minus 11 days.

they can work on the same bus another guy had a vp44 truck in a chevy with an allison and it worked fine with the adr. I don't have the source info off hand, The ADR is listening on the bus for info from the ecm and VP44, everything else it doesn't care about. I believe the guy with the chevy, just put a y in place on the j1939.

this file just adds functions to the j1939 read routine and passes that info to the screen, like current gear. it does not alter programming in any way. however I honestly don't remeber if this flash file is up to date with the last vehicle profile stuff.

the code suggests you have either a APP's issue or a wiring ot the apps issue. If you spent that money on the truck I would be asking the builder why you are getting that error code. The MM3 flash should have no way to trip that code. Try flashing the mm3 back and driving, does the code come back?

No, however the boost fooling might be tapping into the same 5v or ground circuit.

Yep, quad won't fix a hardware/sensor issue. Did it run good without the edge hardware installed?

Factory tuning is just more aggressive.

Tuning.

Are you able to see wires when you get under the truck and look up? i'd be putting some sort of skid plate in place.

I'd personally go with the new scat pack for 1 simple reason, it hasn't been abused. the hellcat might not have been abused, but it is a performance car.

470 is a big number on stock tuning without boost fooling. A lot of the power gained with tuning comes from preventing the ecm from defueling. I would wager a guess that there was some sort of boost fooling out on. 150 hp rated injectors are generally good to 550 hp worth of fuel with heavy wiretap. However hp ratings on injectors are useless. Your injectors may be equal to other guys 175's or 200's. Flow rates would tell that. The advice stays the same though, Ditch the edge and get it running well with the mm3. If you want more power at that point then bigger injectors are in order.

agree'd you paid for the mm3 and tuning. use it. I wouldn't suggest a mm3 over a quad, but since you already paid for it use it. A good tune with the mm3 should run well. guessing ~450-475 hp worth of fuel. I still suggest bigger injectors regardless of your tuning path.

yea it's nutso and easy to see why Smokey hot vp's where the norm. big boy injectors + some decent tuning makes a big difference.

prob close to the same. I would guess 500 the turbo starts to come out of it's map and 535 is would be tapped out. I wouldn't loose sleep over the "billet wheel"

Stock turbo stock injectors prob 350hp is a good guess. that fancy named turbo is just a 62/65/14 sxe turbo. You will get ~525 maybe and hot 550 hp with proper fueling.

Nope, you can't do that unless you rewrite the vp44, the ecm, and the communication protocol they talk to each other on. IE not gonna happen. Wrietap has a place, but it's need is GREATLY reduced with proper tuning and proper injectors.

MM3 is only ecm tuning. No wiretap. keep in mind the ecm supplies ~%75 of the fueling, wiretap can add ~%25 more. *** in most applications *** with proper injectors you don't really **need** wiretap unless you are really looking to wrap out RPMS. I ran the quadzilla on lvl 3 with my 7 x .012's and the he351ve turbo and it made PLENTY of power.

remove the edge. there is no point in troubleshooting the tuning while you are stacking stuff. you, me, and the tuner have no idea what box is to blame.