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Huge Thanks to Loki223 over on CumminsForum for this one. You will need The wiring harness from Dudes Diesel Performance $95 but worth it to not hack up your trucks harness. https://dudesdieselperformance.com/i-30533376-dudes-diesel-performance-tow-mirror-light-harness-13-18-ram-1500-2500-3500.html Alright, so i know many of you have seen the tow mirror running lights done before, and this solution is specific to the 13-18 trucks. On the old way of doing this, you must run some wires inside the cab and through the doors which is a royal PITA to get into the doors. And this must be done in both doors, plus there is cutting and splicing factory wires, which some people don't care about, others do. Being that i just spent a boat load of money for the truck, i didn't want to be splicing wires where i can avoid it. That is where this wire harness comes in. It is completely plug and play, with no cutting or splicing required. It is easily removed, and easily blends into the factory harness. My harness is a pre-production set, when these are readily available, i will post a link on where to get them. (I have no affiliation with the manufacturer or seller, so i will update this with a link when i get notified that they are up for sale.) Now, lets get into the this Here is the harness as supplied. The black connectors that are separate in the picture will need to be placed onto the factory harness, while the factory connectors will be placed on the opposite side of this harness to make things fully plug and play. This process takes about an entire second, and will be shown in this thread Next Remove the Door Panel by following the directions in this article. Now we are looking at this guy, the door module, which is located towards the front of the door, the handle trim piece is actually blocking view of this in the previous photo. The 2 connectors we need are the Blue and Black one. Do this one at a time, so as not to mix anything up Let's start with the black connector. Insert a pick into one side of it, and use a screw driver on the other side in the access hole to slide it out. When inspecting the connector, you will notice that there is a retainer piece that must be relieved to allow the inner connector to slide out of the outer connector. I found the best way to do this was with the pick, as shown here Now, on the opposite side use a small screw driver (or other small skinny object) to press out the inner connector Once removed, slide on the provided black connector to this connection. Then place the removed connector onto the other side of the harness. Once the connectors are fully assembled, plug the harness connector into the door module, and the door harness into the new harness. Repeat on the blue connection, and now all the hard work is done. Check function to verify nothing is messed up while you have the door open. Now that everything is connected properly, secure the wiring with some zip ties, and trim the zip ties, because we are tidy folk here. Once that is done, everything looks pretty again, and we want our trucks to look pretty (even on the inside where nobody else will see them) Now take a step back, and look at it. You can hardly tell anything aftermarket is going on there. Now question yourself as to why you didn't pre-order the Kicker speaker upgrade kit to do at the same time. Because look at that speaker, it looks so much better suddenly. And if you wanted to upgrade the speakers, this gives you the perfect excuse (it's only 4 more screws per door) Now reassemble the door panel, in the reserve order that you took it apart. Then, you are done! No running wires, and messing with the door harness connector under the hinge that will make you cuss and grab a beer while you think about your decisions. Nice and easily done, with basic tools. Enjoy your work! (and probably tell me to go wash my truck, which will happen later today) Here is a video showing the function. The lights are at full brightness during running light mode (which i like over partial brightness of some of the other ways of doing this) The lights are being powered through the interior lights circuit, not the running lights. So they will turn on when you open the door, and not when you remote start the truck. They also fade off with the rest of the interior lights, and stay on for a couple seconds after exiting the vehicle. For vehicles without interior LED lights in the door panel, this mod will cost you a little more, but it will be worth it. You must purchase Alpha OBD and turn on the feature in your door module. it will only take a minute or two, and is really easy. Plus there is a lot more you can do with Alpha OBD, so you should just go ahead and get it anyways. If you need help with Alpha @Jimmy07 knows a lot about the program, and can help you get done what you need done. If you are on the fence about getting the program, check out this thread to see what a lot of people have been doing with it https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/2...justments.html As always, enjoy, and let me know if you would like to know more. I will update with purchase location once i have that information. This is one of my favorite things to do on these trucks, and now it is super easy to do. Cheers everyone! View full Cummins article

Thanks to Loki223 over on Cumminsforum for this one. Step one, remove the door panel. Carefully pry off the upper sail panel, and remove the fasteners holding the door panel on The edge fasteners are a T-20 Torx Bit head, sometimes you might need to use a pick to apply pressure to the screw to get it to come out. Once the screw is removed, remove the push in fastener, and push the screw slightly into it for reassembly. These are really fast to put back in, place the plastic piece back into the hole, and then simply push in the screw for reassembly. For removing the plastic insert, i used my 90 degree pick, it slips in easily and can grab the insert to remove it. Now remove this plastic piece from behind the door handle, this picture is from one of the other doors as i was doing other things in the doors at this point in time, and snapped photos as i remembered i was supposed to take a photo of that. Behind this panel is a phillips head screw, remove this aswell. Now all the fasteners are out of the door, but you aren't done yet. Remove the trim panel that goes behind the door handle. I use my pick and insert it into one of the slots, to pull it forward and out. It comes out pretty easily, then slide it out and around your door handle. You also need to remove your window switch panel, this pries upward nice and easily. Unhook the connector, and set the window switches aside. You do not need to fully remove the door handle trim piece. For vehicles with the LED interior lighting group, there will be a wire running up to it, this can be left attached, and you can slide the trim piece through the opening in the door panel once removed. Now pull the entire door panel up, and the panel will come free. There are no plastic Christmas trees to break and replace and cuss at because that one in the center won't pop off and you have to find some way of popped it out without breaking anything...the entire panel just slides up out of place, or down into place. All around, a great panel design. Once removed, you panel will look like this. At this point, slide the door handle trim piece around the door handle to keep it out of the way, and you are already done with the hard part of this job. Note, if you have the interior LEDs, there is one more harness to disconnect once you pull the door panel off. there is plenty of wire there, so you don't have to worry about snagging anything. Towards the rear of the door is the connector, facing up. It easily disconnects to separate the harness. Make sure to plug this back in during reassembly View full Cummins article

So far the fit and finish of my 4th gen has been good. Much much better than my 2nd gen. The older dodge trucks did often fall victim to poor interiors, but I think that is a thing of the past. I did still buy a dashmat for my 4th gen though. Sun is the enemy of nearly everything.

I agree, I would go with at least a 13+ 6.7 the emissions is much better. The Fords seem to be doing pretty good, but I don't like how cramped it is under the hood.

Yep, we need to get back to work. America cannot handle %30 unemployement for longer than a month or so.

@JAG1 that chart is a guess, the guess is the shaded area in Red, the X axis is the rate of transmission y is death rate. at this point since we don't good numbers so it is either on par with the standard flu, but could be higher. The more I see the more I believe that a vast % of the population has it and only a small % are dying. If I were a betting man I am going to say this thing is on par with the flu- ish. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/high-consequence-infectious-diseases-hcid#history The diamond pricess cruise had an outbreak and full testing. 3700 total on board, 800 tested that they had it 10 died So death rate < %0.1

Here is a guess using the low tested numbers we have.

In my mind the case numbers are nearly useless. I think it is short sighted to think that the case numbers are a true number. A lot of places are just not testing and a lot of the population is asymptomatic. A vast % of the population has or had this thing. I would honestly not be suprised to see the true case number in the USA be well over 1,000,000. People move around the world like crazy, this thing spreads like wildfire so it only makes sense that a staggering % of the world population has it.

It shouldn't be disabled, just set your serial to 115200 baud per setup.ino

Top paragraph has the link.

I think it is important for everyone, that can, to keep supporting businesses. We really need to attempt to combat the huge economic disaster we are in. try to combat fear and buy stuff like you always have. Something as small as buying a gallon of paint from your local paint store keeps people working. Colorado is projected to hit %20 unemployment nearly overnight, thats a hard thing to come back from. Keep ordering out keep buying normal things.

The quad doesnt tune the ecm. If power is disconnected from the quad the loaded tune reverts back to stock.

Look up app history sites on google.

Sure, but at least they could tell you whats up and if it is the box or something in the wiring or truck

Time to learn the corona Wipe.

I'd send it in for testing if it runs fine without being plugged in.

I almost dont see the point of doing small injectors if you are planning on more down the road. I guess id do rv275's

Let it knock lol. My truck rattled pretty dang good, but it like to sit at 20* of timing at 65 mph under light load. Vp's knock, like it's their job. i'd adjust timing to be 1500: 14 2000:18 2500: 24 3000: 27 max30

I wouldn't change anything unless you have an issue to solve. You might want to pull a bit more timing to help spool if your injectors are not bigger than ~7 x .0085's

My truck liked more timing at 2k than you have. I would bump your 2k timing to 18-19* and see what happens. When it hoppes what engine load are you at? That will tell us if the quad is in cruise state timing or if it is using performance timing,

@Dynamic We trust your insights here as you have proven to be honest. We trust your bullshoot-o-meter. Thanks.

Great work. 31's were my best mod.

@Dynamic thoughts?

1. boost scaling only compresses the map used. if your truck builds more than 40 psi you should set scaling to 40. 2. settings 1 psi lower than 0 psi will help the offidle lul but cut down on a rapid increase of fueling / smoke when coming off idle. 3. if you have studs then I wouldn't worry about a "tow tune" unless you have an issue that needs to be solved.