Me78569

If the smarty wont read codes but the cheapo scanner will then there is an issue in the smarty hardware. Give your current struggles I would be looking for a refund or replacement.

again has nothing to do with Tesla, and everything to do with electric powertrain. Tesla is not going to be the leader, GM, Ford, Dodge, bmw, benz, Honda, etc etc will be leaders as they have the volume and the structure to produce them efficently. Tesla was simple the bee in the shorts making the big 3 look bad.

I just past 1200 miles on mine, I would have to be loco to delete it lololol

we have it pretty bad, but we also dont have any insulation or heater currently lol.

lol not my engine.

Tools- 5/16 socket, extension, ratchet, etc, to remove bolts and possibly clamps 1/4" nut driver, to possibly remove clamps flat blade screw driver, cause you always need one for something snap blade utility knife, to cut the filer element sharp chisel, 1/2" or so, to remove the glue Dremel with cut off wheel, cause it works a whole lot better than a hack saw So I guess the idea here is to protect this and everything after it from oil build up and crap. Also, I guess there is the potential for the CCV filter to become overly clogged with oil and not allow the crankcase to vent properly, which supposedly would be hard on various seals throughout the engine. Plus, no self respecting American would have their diesel engine eating it's own waste... here in America we just dump that crap on the ground ;-) So first I just removed the CCV hose, then the eight bolts that hold the valve cover-cover or CCV filter cover down, then the oil cap. Then lift it straight off. Put the oil cap back on and cover up the top of the valve cover with something to keep crap from falling down in there. Remove the filter from the cover and it will look like this. This part you can do however you want, just don't break the main housing. I cut the corners off like this with the dremel tool and then the posts pull up and out of there, no glue at all. Next I cut right down the middle so I could work on both side separately. I then started to do a little prying, You can see how it broke apart, just don't brake the part you are saving. I could extend a snap blade utility knife way out and kinda slip it in there and cut the plastic from the filter material. I was able to finally pull one side off, then the other. I'm throwin in a couple extra pics... you guys that really wanna know how this works from the factory should be able to see and know what you are looking at. Once you get both sides off and most of the filter material gone it will look like this. Now the easy part (literally). I found the best thing to use for the next part was a chisel... make sure it is stupid sharp. I used a relatively narrow one (1/2"). Each channel is about 3/4"-1" wide... The glue comes up so easy though. Once you get under it, it will practically peel off. It would probably have peeled off easier if it was warmer than 40 degrees in my garage. Now just remove the remaining bits of glue and clean it up in the kitchen sink when your wife isn't lookin. I used some goof-off and rubbing alcohol to just to be safe. This is a picture of the under side of the cover. I'm not sure what this contraption is, but when I blew through it there was no restriction at all either way, so I figured I'd leave it be. Now just stick whats left of the filter you modified back into the cover (it will hang in there on it's own). Put the cover back on the valve cover and bolt it back down. I bought these from NAPA. I used one to cap my S&B intake. While you are at NAPA getting the cap for your intake, buy about 4'-5' of 3/4" heater hose. I cut a small piece of wire mesh to put over the drain end. I park my truck for long periods of time and I didn't want any critters running up that tube. I routed my tube down the passenger side of the engine, towards the front just behind the alternator. You should be able to see from the pictures. I wanted it to hang at or in front of the front tires to minimize it's exposure to dust... though that really should matter anyway. Get underneath the truck and pull or push it to the level you want it to hang (mine is just below the bottom of the frame). Now go back up top, but it the right length and attach it to the filter cover connection. Should be good to go! No CEL. I do have a mini maxx, but that shouldn't matter, anyone can do this. I ran mine a little and then took the cover back off. I figured there would be oil all over in there... but there wasn't. There was none at all. So I guess the way the valve cover is shaped, the only thing that really comes up is oil vapors and air. I am pretty sure any oil vapors that come out will condense on the inside of the filter housing and drain back in, I don't anticipate any oil ever dripping out of the puke tube. Here is a picture after running for a bit. View full Cummins article

Less than 3% by going from standard to 330 bar if you look at the idle fueling command.

If you are going with a bigger turbo then you really want at least 7x.010's. With some very basic tuning(tunes are free to download) the 7 x .010's will run better, make more power and smoke will not exist.

I am pretty sure I used an easy out in mine as well. Same thing happened to me.

Yep it is all mapped in Winols.

@Tittle Diesel Performance if you look at the OEM timing maps the IAT sensor actually doesn't provide adjustments beyond hot or cold timing spike or retard. the maps are literally a cliff once you hit "hot" or "Cold" we talked a lot about an IAT adjustment and I believe the code is even in the flash, just commented out, because we never could arrive at a total amount of timing to add or pull for a scale of *F change. Since the OEM maps didn't do it we couldn't really find a good number to use beyond a guess. Rather than make a guess at it we just left it out.

I would send them back personally. Sounds like a bad retro fitter.

I am wondering if the control box got messed up fro. Reveresed polarity and now isn't working?

did you pull both fuses for high and low beam? your picture looks like the middle pin is ground, but the 9004 has the ground on the outside. I would get a multimeter out and test for power and ground on the truck side, then pin the Mled to match. I am assuming you have a splitter from the blue truck side plug to the Mled control box? the MLED connectors are not keyed so they can be put in upside down depending on what headlights you need to adapt from. You can look at the connector and see a + and - on one side. verify that those are also connected correctly.

yep sounds like the airdog curse.

did you have sport lights or single bulb setup? sounds to me like you have pins mixed up still, but you will need to tell us what is pinned to where. also the headlight switch will disable power to the low beam when you go to high beam. I dont know if the morimoto led control can handle that.

what wires are going where at this point? Do you have an adapter to go from the stock plug to 2 9006 plugs?

It's a standard AN fitting

correct hx's came on manual trucks on all 2nd gen trucks. 01/02 autos got the little hy35

sadly that project got put back into the closet and likely wont see the light again. The functions of the current wiretap tuning are really close and most would never know the difference. It worked pretty ok, but it was not great because of how fast boost climbs. The mapped function worked better for most situtaitons.

sounds like you either have a bad map sensor or you have a short to ground on the map wiring.

Again unless you were working with me directly in the Quadzilla V3 tuning stuff your Wiretap sliders never worked. The reason why it was so clean is because everything was set to Min's as none of the tuning variables were being set due to your mismatch with the App profile Vs the base flash you had.

you can choose to not ride in it. I wouldn't ride in it with a person behind the wheel with that attitude. It doesn't sound like this has a good grasp on the leathality of a 4000# chuck of metal moving at 30 mph. We are always pushing the line forward, which is good, but we need to keep that line in Check. That's the issue. Only move the line when it should be moved and not just because it is "cool" We are however missing the point of the thread, the point is not self driving it is Electric Power Train and the suitablity in a HD situtation.

They aren't terrible but they are good either. People have done tests on the heat put off from the LED. the projector will put off ~120*f. When you enclose that into the housing that should be more than enough.