jncornett

fwiw on my 05 i could only recalibtrate my tire height with the smarty loaded meaning when i loaded the stock tune back in the truck the factory tire height was placed back as well and the speedo would be off 5mph because of the 315's

I need more timing but any setting over 1 and it gets smokey during od lockup in the business district 45mph zone... and during lock up climbing the hill at the river to and from work at every up shift and lock up. I am about over it I just dont look in the mirror lol...on a positive note mpg's up from 13.2 to a steady 15.1 since the second fill up after the comp went on.. 1st tank after comp on 4x3 yeided 12.7.. I think my driving style (read heavy foot prolly from driving a fire truck for a living for 12+years) and new low stall torque converter are to blame but man i like it that t/c makes driving this thing a blast --- Update to the previous post... Mike I agree with the level 1 not being tapped because as i scroll down from 5 to 1 there is a positive loss of power (feels like my lawn service trailer is suddenly on the truck) and the tone of the engine changes as soon as 1 is active... going from 1 to 2 as soon as 2 hits it gains a few rpm and the tone changes to a deeper note and stays that way through level 5 (which leads me to believe 2-5 are tapped) and only changes when it gets back to level 1

lol it looks better than mine....i used industrial grade velcro and stuck it to the bezel above the ash tray.... then used the ash tray to hold all the extra cable and then used another peice on the bottom to hold the ash tray closed up to the bottom of the scan gauge... doesnt look bad but not as sexy as a real bracket dont laugh to hard lol its what i had on hand

I need to do this my self I found my clunk the other day and havnt had time to fix it yet... Driver side lower shock bolt.. It seems the mount is a bit wider then the shock bushing.. I was told by a friend to crank it tight till the shock cant move in there lol.. ISX I think your fix is a better plan

Just got off the phone with Casey at edge asking questions about the edge comp.... Im still working out the low boost smoke issue and he told me that levels 1-3 do not utilize the pump tap!! I asked how level 3 makes 80 hp on the comp and the ez only makes 65 hp... He said the comp does it but doesnt use the tap untill level 4 and if i unhook the tap it will function as an ez.. but instead of 20,30,and 65hp it would be 40,60 and 80 hp... This goes against everything ive read about the edge comp.. Im hoping you guys can shed some light on this for me as my conversation with tech support left me more confused lol

I have 1 that I bought from tst products... I like it alot better than a turnbuckle, just my opinion, it limits boost to 29 psi and eliminates the need to watch the gauge constantly.. A chip or boost fooler is needed to keep from setting codes..

Thanks man ill take the door apart and check... It needs to be pulled apart any how the darn thing is not completely unlocking with 1 press of the fob...In the last week first thing in the morning i have to hit the button 2-3 times to get the drivers door opened.. I see the lock stem move but it doesnt raise up to the unlock position on the first try...

The 5 step program at its best :thumbup2:I admit I also like to see a good bit of smoke some times... lets me know the ole goat still has some play left in her lol... My common rail was stupid and it took well.... atleast 6 months for the need (Yes I said Need.. is that step 1 i 'm admitting to?) to break the tires loose at 55mph in 5th gear when ever i chose to or see the look on the guys face in the mustang gt when we took off at a light and he pulls away from me a few car legnths or so.. get to 4th and catch him grab 5th get loose and see his jaw drop as i pull away get to 6th and put serious distance between the vehicles... Step 2 was selling the truck and buying a house....Back to denial...bought the 01 and said ohhh Im not going to do that again that was nuts.....look at my sig...I admit im a junkie:spend:Koyote we wont hold your smoking habit against you.... That is unless you live in ky with a hunter green long bed with stacks that insist on giving the easisest going fireman I know a case of black lung while jogging...just kidding buddy it wasnt you.... Although this is whats happening in the city i work in by the hard heads around here... Just yesterday my old partner was jogging down main st (wearing an officeial t shirt identifying our department) trying to stay in shape for our occupation and deployment in march & was sooted not once but twice by the same jerk before he could get the reamaining 3 blocks to his house... that poor kid had better hope the compassionate fireman pulls him out of the truck and not his evil twin the soldier ....i have never seen that young man that upset in the 5 years he worked with me sorry guys not aimed towards anyone just needed to vent:tease: Back to the original post i learned today that if i slow down about 2 more mph turning onto my street the truck will down shift instead of just powering up the hill and no haze at all :woot:still relearning to drive the truck with the new tranny and edge combo...

The police in this area dont like the diesel trucks anymore we have a large number of 16-20 somthing year olds that think its way cool to black out the sun as often as they can.. That tends to lend individuals like myself trying to explain the difference between low boost haze and joy smoke.. And its nothing to see 25-30 different diesel trucks nightly driving by the fire house trying to see how fast they can go between the traffic light and the stop sign...Maybe 350 yards... and get 2 or more in a row and it becomes a smoke show.. So until the kiddo's cool down any smoke is bad right now..... But hey man you gotta feed the addiction

Mopar how easy is it to keep smoke at bay with that setting? Ive been thinking about trying 4/2 or 5/2 but dont know if its worth it because my truck became a train after the comp.. 3/3 seems good empty but not towing my lawn service trailer..2/3 -2/4 is working good for that and pretty controlled smoke...just driving up the one little hill i turn onto at the end of my street on 3/3 hazes pretty dark under light throttle... the neighbors there dont like my truck he holds his ears when im coming in in the evenings...Imagine if it were straight piped..I thought the aero turbine 4040xl did a good job it gave it a nice deep tone but not as loud.. well with the fuel milage the only thing i can think of is my fuel gauge might be reading right for a change... It does this every now and then... but usually 1/4 tank is empty & 3/4 = 2/3rds 1/2 = 1/3rd and 1/4 = walk.. Ill fill up thursday as usual and find out.. the comp realy woke this darn truck up! wow..stepped into it this evening about 2/3rds throttle to get out into traffic and could hear the tires bark when it hit second and third on 3/3 and not too smokey just a good light haze @ 34lbs of boost.With still more to be had goosed the throttle when it shifted to od and the boost gauge matched by showing 38 lbs.... now to make sure the waste gate is set low enough to keep it safe

Ive been running 2/4 or 3/3..I run these because this box is pretty smoky with my 100 hp injectors and can run 4/3 if i am extremely easy on the throttle... like i said i loved the truck before but now its just wow

Hey guys I bought a used edge comp last week & got it on the truck filled up with fuel and started driving..... only been a little more than half throttle 4 times and so far im about 80 miles short on this half tank of fuel....Looking for opinions here bad fuel ( i fill up at the same station every 2 weeks and this is where i get the best milage from).... winter fuel .... I wouldnt think so but maybe.... still a month early for that here it usually happens mid october...or unhook the pump tap next tank and see whats going on there... No fuel in the oil im checking that every 3rd day at the fire house after it sits 8-9 hours I changed the oil 2 weeks ago with the same ole rosmella.. still clean after 2 weeks usually black by now.no leaaks anywhere.. It runs good, real good, nice smooth power not as agressive as thte quad xzt+... I lknow no one can give a definate answer just looking for ideas and opinions.. Thanks guys

wow and i thought i had troubles. I appreciate the info. did not have time to check the grounds at the starter today. --- Update to the previous post... thanks to all of you. I installed my rebuilt ecm today and drove my truck for the first time in 6 months. stilll got a few things to check out and more people to thank.

I ran a second ground from the battery to the ecm ground terminal bolt not to the ecm case.... The ground from the battery to the engine block on the driver side was fubar.... So I added insurance in case this happened again... So there would be a redundant ground from the batt to the ecm grounding point.I also added another ground from the battery to that stud under the battery, again redundan but it made me feel good .. as for problems yeah i had a bunch... low voltage to apps,iat, map, and oil sensors along with bad grounds..Junk lift pump, poorly installed halo headlights (water was getting in to the crimp connectos some one used when they cut the wires to add a home brew floor dimmer to run the high beam and low beams at the same time). and several other codes..Battery cables were junk black and corroded from end to end..Broken wires in the ecm harness... after fixing the grounds and going through the tests i found on mikes web page for the codes i had i chased my problems down to the ecm and pcm.. The map & iat circuits were burnt in the ecm, the apps circuit was burnt on the ecm and pcm and the oil sensor was the broken ground i repaired in the engine harness...i would also get intermitent map code and finally found the wires were fouled up at the connector.. The twist test revealed this... My grid heat relays were sticking and putting a heck of a draw on the batteries which was the cause of most of my low votage codes.. the ones mentioned near the top of this paragraph were codes set after clearing them regardless of voltage after the charging system was confirmed good so i started going deeper with diagnosing the problems... Let me know if i can help further....Ill do what i can... For what its worth my friend who owns his own shop for the last 10 years and after being a dealer mech for 15 years still thinks the truck was struck by lightning due to similar repairs on another truck that was seen hit by lightning while he worked at the ford dealer..

If i remember right the ecm is NOT gounded to the block through the bolts.....The ground above/behind the starter is the ground the ecm uses for its sensors...Im trying to remember when i had my engine harness off and apart how many of the grounds tie together in the harness from that ring terminal.... The body ground under the driver side battery has alot of the other grounds for the other electronics etc.... welded to a ring terminal... you may have heard this a bunch already but that was my main grounding issue... It was corroded so bad it was orange and until i took it off the stud and looked at it up close it seriously looked fine...it was one of the worse corroded connections i have seen.. I had to remove about 2" of wire to get to good copper soldered on a new terminal dielectric grease and crossed my fingers...I had a sensor ground fail at the welded splice in the ecm harness... I took it apart and soldered that connection new shrink tubing ... 1 problem solved..( I had many) Although i did add a 6 awg wire with ring terminals from the battery to the same bolt that the ecm ground is secured with for insurance... I also added a second ground to the pcm from the passenger side battery while i was fixing grounds... I hopes this helps i havnt thought to much about it since i got the truck on the road last feb. And i dont want to give bad info... Someone will jump in and give some more info if this doesnt help...

I guess if all else fails you could run a switched relay and use resistors to mimic the grid heater coil load for the ecm ... run the factory signal wire through n/c contacts and use supply voltage on one side of a n/o contact and a resistor and the signal wire going back to the ecm on the other and let the ecm operate as it would normally... the wait to start would still come on but not actuate the grid relay..unless the switch was off... Feel free to correct my thought process if ive missed something

Lol mine have been unhooked since i got the truck on the road last feb... grid relays are sticking on...and i still havnt replaced them or decided if im gonna hookem up... I thought i might just wait and see what happens.. mild winters here usually in the 20's some days in the upper teens but not many...

Not alot.... If you were to drive long distances you wouldnt want to do it due to temps, but im only looking for the 2 mile business district that i tow my lawn service trailer through during rush hour on my off says from the fire house. If speeds are at or below 45mph that darn truck lugs and hazes... Any thing after 32 ish in drive and everything is at temp.. it locks up and doesnt like to unlock...and at about 42 in od same deal.... This truck of mine is stuborn once that t/c loks up it dont like to let go and it gets pretty smokey if you press down to power through to unlock/down shift or up to enough rpm to build boost...Darn auto's lol hopefuly not a problem after tomorrow the goerend unit went in today and will be finished up for pick up tomorrow and my problems may be over with stuborn lock up time will tell

Sure pictures would be great.... As far as the haze it is from low boost at the lower speeds.. wasnt an issue with the factory turbo... Now with the 62-12-65 that is on it the truck produces2- 4 psi where it used to be about 10 at 45 mph locked up.... I was told this charger produces 930 cfm and should be flowing approximately the same amount of air at 15 psi as the stock hy at 25...It lights very fast and as far as the boost actuator goes i blocked off the line trying to figure out why the wastegate opens at 22 psi just to make sure my chip was actually boost fooling... After a call to the manufacturer i was informed the info that was provided wasnt exactly correct.. I was led to believe the wate gate was set to 42 psi and the manufacturer says is set to more like 30 ish but was confused that it was opening so soon..when i get time i need to shorten the waste gate actuating rod to get the pressure set where i want it... The haze isnt dark but i realy dont like seeing smoke no matter how light it is......

I am planning to do this very thing just to get rid of smoke when driving through the 45mph zone near my home, while towing after the new turbo and injectors it hazes way too much for my likeing whether in 3rd or 4th when it locks at low speeds ....anyway thanks for the leg work... i hadnt started working on this yet but next week will be a different story... my new goerend gets installed wednesday :hyper:

mobile delvac or rosmella whitch ever one is on sale when 5k is up on the odometer... although after seeing that oil analysis it may be valvoline pre blue if i can find locally or chevron dello 400 or napa oil since they are 1/2 mile from me... The delvac is all i ran in my 05... rosmella was in the 01 when i got it and thats whats been on sale lately soo after my oil change this week my stock of rosmella will be gone and we will see what goes in the shed for the next oil change... I dont know about you guys but like to keep an oil change and filters (oil and fuel) and a belt on hand just in case:thumbup2:... I hate going over on oil changes, and id hate to get in a jam with bad fuel and need a fuel filter for the air dog and not have one.. Fuel filter gets changed everyother oil change...

My 05 did this at or below a 1/4 its the fuel moving to the front or rear of the tank... If you could hear your pump you could hear the change in pitch it makes as it loses and then gets a better supply of fluid at the draw straw after the momentum slows from stopping..

Im not sure why it does it, but i think its a problem with the central timer module.. as far as reprograming the fob im not sure on that some say it can be done and others say dealer....hopefully some one with the answer will chime in.

Thanks i have that saved..... I was looking for the correct way to adjust the tv (kick down) cable on the trans... I have a new tranny on the way and want to make sure i get everything right on the install..

Have you cleared the code just to see if it was a fluke or from a recent previous low voltage condition or is it new/ comes back after clearing? Check the altenator fuse in the main fuse box under the hood just for giggles its the big fuse that screws in... (Held in by 2 screws) if thats good you may have to start checking the wireing.. i would probe the 12 volt supply going to the ecm, if thats good then check the 5 volt supply coming from the ecm if its under 5 volts and you have 12+ volts going in, the ecm may have a problem or there could be a short to ground in the wiring some where.. Mike has on his website 3 schematics that will help with the wire pin outs for the engine bay /ecm.http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm. also Here is another for the ecm http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ecm/ecm.htm ---------- Post added at 10:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 AM ---------- just a thought, is your grid heater cycling in the mornings and if so what does your voltage gauge do? if it drops down under 12 volts and stays a while then comes back up you could have a grid heater relay sticking and drawing the voltage down and giving you that code.. the 5 volt supply is directly related to the battery voltage going into the ecm, usually