AH64ID

The CR's can use both style coolers but there are blue plugs for the older style piston coolers so only the J-jets are used in stock form. There are some people that use both for race motors and some that think it drops pressure to the nozzles too much and just use the J-jets on CR motors.

Looks great!! Did you change the air filter recently?

No the piston cooling nozzle is different and called a "J-jet" that squirts oil into the piston.

I learned somthing today about the VP vs CR pistons. I knew the piston oil cooler was different on the CR motors but I didn't know that the piston design for the cooler was different. The CR pistons have a opening where oil in squirted into the piston whereas the VP pistons just have oil squirted on the bottom. This is most likely why the VP marine (industrial is the same) pistons are coated and the CR ones are not. So it sounds like VP pistons run hotter.

I never hear my 05 but lots of people claim their 03-04's and 06-07's are LOUD...never hear that about the 05's thou??

I don't have a clue on the VP marine motors. My pistons are from a QSB 480hp enigne and are double heat treated and 30% stronger than the non-HO marine pistons.

I pull most grades at 55-60, sometimes a little faster but generally not. Where I can on the flats I do 68-71 as it pulls better than at 65 due to the rpms. 10.25 ± 0.5 is what I typically get but have seen in the 11's a time or two. I am generally 18.5K-20K but have a LOT of wind resistance going on. Without the quads but a heavier trailer (21K GCW) I get 11-13 depending on elevation change doing 60. With the camper and no quads, around 17-18K GCW, I get 11-14 depending on elevation change and speed.

Very nice!! Is the ceramic coating from Cummins or the machine shop? The QSB HPCR pistons are not coated and don't have that ring arrangement. What HP motor are those from?

The volume should be the same auto or manual. The volume for the heat exchanger is minimal and both are listed with the same total capacity which is just under 6.1 gallons. I always thought that style bucket held 4 gallons?? That does makes 6 so? I don't know about the 2nd gen blocks but the 3rd gen blocks don't drain well and about 2.5-3 gallons stays in the block.

Should be a total of 6.1 gallons. Little trivia... The 5.9's have bigger cooling systems than the 6.7's, even the newest 385/865 motor. The 3rd gen 5.9's have a 7.4 gallon system.

If your boost is rising with a partially opened WG to above your desired point the WG needs to start opening sooner, and could be why it starts to crack at 10 psi stock for 22 peak. Have you tried varying the length of the rod? You may need a different WG actuator with the enlarged wastegste port as the drive pressure now has a much bigger area to force the WG open with. I have always liked the idea of spring WG's that work purely off of drive pressure.

I originally had a filter but took it out for a couple of reasons. Soot is too small to filter, and it was always holding moisture and freezing on me. I put my copper pipe in the manifold where my pyro had been on my stock manifold and on my ATS it is in a similar spot between 2-3. For me a 60 psi gauge wasn't enough for the exhaust brake and would peg with the stock turbo on a hard WOT run so now I have a 100 psi gauge. I never saw much more than 65 with the stock cam but can see over 75 with the current cam and exhaust brake. My drive pressure while not exhaust braking is almost always a little less than boost. This reminds me I need to hook mine back up. I took it out last September to get my touch mounted and haven't reinstalled it.

Very interesting. Seems like a cheaper version of what Cummins used on the 04.5-07 5.9's. Maybe it's how I am reading it but I am not sure you are using the term boost creep correctly. If your stock WG is set to peak at 22 psi and it gets boost creep then this setup would as well. Boost creep is a function if the wastegste port and not the actuator. The benefit to the standard adjustable elbow is a smoother limit to boost, where this setup (like the 04.5-07 5.9) can be jumpy at peak boost and even cause rapid drops/peaks. But like you said you aren't bleeding any air to the atmosphere. I am curious, why port the wastegste on a stock truck?

I have read about plenty of NAPA thermostat issues on these trucks... Cummins is the only thermostat I would consider running. The high spike could be a bad thermostat. My 0.02 is to put the 190° back in year round even in 115° weather there are zero reasons to run the 180° but there are reasons not to. Order or pickup a Cummins 190° thermostat and see where you are at. You didn't say how you are reading coolant temps.

Since nearly all 17" sizes are 70 series vs 75 series on a 16" the overall diameter is nearly identical. As long as you don't have a locker or spool you will be fine with a slightly different sizes side to side as that is the purpose behind a differential and the axle will just think you are always on a corner.

Some additives may help reduce smoke so if you smoke on a DIY snap test then try an additive or two. Gauges and monitors will not make you fail, but if it looks like a tuner it may be a different story. As for codes it may take 3-5 run cycles, that's cold-hot as one cycle, to get OBDII monitors ready so you can't clear codes on the way to the test. Do a couple of WOT runs to clean out the pipes so you area failing the snap test from residual soot being blown out on a snap test.

Yes ultra gauge does rail pressure on your 05.

I agree with W&F that your only real issue is the wrong thermostat. What are you using to read coolant temp? The dash is mostly accurate.... but not completely. The 190° thermostat that your truck should have opens at 190°±3°, but isn't full open until 207° and has a max allowable temp of 225°. Around 210° the ECM starts modulating the fan and it generally won't go to 100% below 215°. If your old thermostat never got above 180° than that was a problem and shouldn't be considered normal. Is your current thermostat a Cummins one? Lots of issues with the non-Cummins thermostats. A 180° thermostat has a couple of issues, the big one is if you tow. The max allowable temp on a 180° thermostat is 212° and as you can see above that's barely into fan operation as the fan is ECM controlled. The second is a cooler diesel is less efficient, so a reduction in economy or power is possible thou probably minimal with a 10° difference.

Which filters are on it (both have f/w drains?)? What color is it?

It all depends on the age of your FASS and the filters on it.. It wasn't all that long ago that FASS and AD filters where worse than stock.

Back in 2012 Fleetguard put out a press release on some spin-on NanoNet filters, which is the same 3um media used on the 2010+ OEM filters. From what I can tell it is one of the best filters available... Anyhow after 3 years of calling my local Cummins to get the filters they finally got them in stock. The FF5814 is the replacement for the Donaldson P551313 or Cat 1R-0750 that many of us use. 3um at 98.7% 99.6 GPH 74.82gr dirt holding capacity. One brochure had 4um at a Beta 200, which is 99.5%. The ISO standard used is multipass vs the older single-pass but it appears that OEM's are starting to ask for the multi-pass ratings and not single-pass anymore. I bought two today, one for me and one for dad's 06. https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pd...es/LT36369.pdf

I would have to find my bill but I think it was under $400 for the full balance job. Part of the 4200 rpm 15 second overspeed limit on the ISB is valve springs/pushrods and part of it is OEM balance tolerances.

Agree that it's not necessacry... but it sure is nice

Since the crank is coming out are you having it and the pistons/rods balanced?

The cam gear blocks the timing case.