AH64ID

http://www.madselectronics.com/downloadfiles/SMARTY_Touch_Data_Logging.pdf http://www.madselectronics.com/DownloadTouch.html The 2nd link has the users guide, it was updated last december when data logging was added. Where are you downloading info from? Have you tried updating the firmware? What version is on it?

No way to know, if it's a MAP sensor issue it could be at any load. Those numbers are WOT. idle should be around 14.7 depending on pressure altitude. Can Dodge rehash your truck to your specs? I'd call them and see what they loaded.

The red dot is the data logging feature. Have you tried to read/write the ECM?

It's not porting issue but more of a routing/casting issue.

That's odd, mine communicated right off the batt. Does it turn on with the key? If you just tap the screen with the key off nothing will read but it should start getting readings as soon as you turn the key to on.

I've never heard of 1-3 being hotter. Mine use to be on the 1-3 side and I moved it to the collector of 4-6 and it seemed to go up a little, but not much. The only reason I have ever heard of 1-3 being preferred is ease of install, otherwise everything I have seen is a recommendation to monitor in the collector. 6 is your hottest cylinder, which is why 4-6 in the collector is recommended probe location. 1 is your coolest cylinder, so that alone makes the 1-3 reading lower in addition to the increased surface area on the manifold causing temps to decrease from 1/2. It may not seem like much, but if it wasn't much manifold blankets would make a difference but they make a big one. Due to the lousy design of the OEM manifold #4 had the worst flow, but 5/6 flow decent. 6 is typically the first piston to melt, followed by 4 with an OEM manifold.

MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) shouldn't show much over 37-38.

What did they flash it with?? How much boost are you making?

The chance of HPCR injectors passing enough tests with over 200K miles on them is slim. The tests compare them to new standards and even injectors that are working great at 223K won't pass the OE standards tests. It's not like pop testing older injectors as the testing machine is looking at 17 (IIRC) standards from reaction time, to quantity, to return flow at different open times and pressures. You have gotten your moneys worth and any more money should be put into new injectors.

I replaced mine at 94K with the rebuild, but they where doing great and tested very well and passed all tests but pilot quantity and that was close. Not bad for 94K miles on HPCR injectors.

Did you get the discounted price?

Many of them may have been better than older full flow filters, with older oils. Why run a 10um nominal bypass when you can run a 7um nominal full flow?? Older filter media was low on flow and filtration, so a 10um bypass may have been better. New media is much better, something that is needed with higher engine ratings. A 160hp 5.9 is much easier on oil than a 300+hp one. Just like the original FASS and Air Dog filter, just because they have a WIF drain doesn't make them better than OEM. Application and ratings are very important.

Any thoughts on what you will do to precede?

This is all inclusive.

Yes TNT-R is free, but unless you change your valve springs, pushrods, and turbine housing or turbo I wouldn't bother . All you really get is additional RPMs, and stock motors don't like them as much. It's a very simple and straightforward install, and I really like mine. I am fairly certain that the PID list on the website needs updated, as I recall seeing a transmission menu on my 05. I can look tonight.

We have 52 colonies on our property, but they aren't ours. Some friends run a honey business and keep some of their bees here. It's been fun, and very educational. I try to tag along when they get tended to.

I do a 5 tire with my radials and it's never been an issue. Since the right rear is the power tire if you only do a front/back you will wear out the right side faster.

Looks like you ordered it... If not shoot me a PM. I wouldn't bother with SSR or TNT-R, I don't think you have the supporting mods to justify the cost or use of them.

For a bypass you really need to be sub 5 micron absolute, it is not worth the money for worse ratings as most wear causing particles are in the 5-7 range. 10 micron nominal is a joke, my full flow filter is better than that. Amsoil has a niche in this regard, 2um absolute and 39% of sub micron soot removal is unmatched. As someone mentioned there is the FS2500 kit which costs more and is not as efficient. Your only better option is a centrifuge, which is harder to make work in our engine bays. Modern oils have made soot very very difficult to remove, so the old school filters don't cut it. You come to Boise at least once a year and I can get you Amsoil filters at cost. All you need is the 1-16" head with proper gasket spacing. You could use the 3um Donaldson fuel filters for oil, but they don't hold as much and will need more frequent replacement. Speaking of fuel filters the presence of asphenelates on you OEM filter is not an indicator of filtration levels, it's an indicator that you are using diesel... Nothing more.

Pretty good! My last UOA with the same oil was at 5700 miles with a TBN of 8.5, lots of towing in those 5700 miles.

Interesting, lift shouldn't have a bearing on anything but u-joints. The internals shouldn't care about the angle, I wonder if it's just the timing.

That sounds like a u-joint issue if the angle effects it.

Without testing I would no be running oil 23 months. Your oil starts to degrade the first time you start the engine, and that process doesn't stop when you shut the engine off. The TBN is likely gone, despite the low miles. Conventional oil is typically only good for 6-12 month, 6 recommended without testing, and good synthetics for 12-18 months, 12 without testing. Bad oil can kill the engine long before 150K miles.

Before I bought a commuter car I got more miles out of my oil. Now my use is a higher percentage of towing, slow back road use, etc.. all things that reduce oil life.

He has a CP3, as stated, but isn't 02 the timeframe of the HORRIBLE Duramax injector issues? It was so bad that GM extended the warranty way out, but I don't recall how far. I don't think the injector bodies are the same as the DirtyMax uses top feed bodies and the HPCR's use side feed.