AH64ID

Agree... excellent statement that put to words what I couldn't come close to.

BP229 is the fittings, and BP230 is the hose. http://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/partslist.aspx

Amsoil sells cut to length line and fittings you could try, or do you have a local hydraulic shop?

13+ trucks are pretty BA! I agree, stick with fleetguard filters. The NanoNet stuff is hard to beat. Rear axle is an AAM 11.5, front is a AAM 9.25". Tell him not to stockpile def, it goes bad.

RPMS also effect amps, it's why output increases with rpms even with a constant voltage. Voltage isn't directly tied to rpms, unlike Hz on a AC generator. There does come a point where rpms are too low to maintain the desired voltage, but that's well below idle rpms for normal idle loads (no gird heater, big stereo, winch, etc). The EVR adjusts the field to increase/decrease output based on the voltage/temp of the batteries. This increases the amperage being put out, which will (as long as output is higher than draw) increase the voltage. To maintain a constant voltage the amperage must vary. Or is that not what you were talking about?

I don't recall that tidbit, but that shouldn't be effected by rpms. I have had my truck in some very cold weather and the battery always comes up to voltage as quick as the alternator can get it there. Set voltage is a hair above 15V in COLD weather. I don't think the PCM has control over anything but the voltage, and the alternator supplies the amps it needs to get to the proper voltage. The only time I have seen voltage effected by rpms was on low batteries, and once I spent a couple minutes at cruise rpms the idle voltage came back up. If the idle voltage is dropping after driving for a while there is an issue. The crossover cable should also be checked, as the ECM monitors voltage on one battery but the alternator charges thru the other one.

Great news!!!

Yes, but they don't take the battery out of a "normal" range. Only way for a battery to drop too low is to have too low of amperage going to it.

Battery temp sensors help dictate voltage, not amperage.

Is he certain it's not a bad battery, or other load? Has he verified voltage with a volt meter?

Tips for controlling it?? Drive :-) Or do you mean install? They can be a PITA to remove. Be sure to rent the 36mm fan wrench, and even then it could bloody some knuckles.

My truck life average is 32.9, and 33.7 since I bought it. The new engine average is 29.7. I have very little idle time, and aside from stop lights almost all my idle time is for cool-down from towing. I don't do a lot of high speed driving these days, 71 is about as fast as I go and that's rare. Last year I only did one tank with an average above 60, and I have one tank with an average of 11.5 without a lot of idle time.

Ecm controlled, normally slower than rpms but can be faster at 100% engaged.

On a side note... what can you tell me about your "B"??... at least I think that is a B. I have a '44 now. It hasn't ran in 20 years, but ran when it was parked and it turns over just fine and seems to have decent compression. My goal is to get it running the summer.

I missed the adding throttle part earlier, that is inline with fuel gelling.... But we know it most likely wasn't (99.9%)... But what that does it make me think it was an issue between the psi sender and injector... Could be anything... Original injection pump?

Where is the pressure sender in relation to filters and such? Is it from the line post pump? Or the port between filters on the pump? 1/4 tank issues? You were low when you got back right? I wonder if the cold was doing something funny?? Do you think it was bucking or surging? Odds are it was nothing, but if your anything like me your going to be thinking about it for a while.

Your truck is an early 06, just a guess based on the difference in housings. Sometime in mid 06 the housing design changed. From 03-06 the GM and Dodge versions had different center sections, I am not sure why. Dodge, or AAM, decided to change them out. The axles both have the same ratings, neither of which you are even close to on a SRW even if you run ran 19.5's loaded up. If you start to check out rear ends you can tell just from the shape if it's an 03-06 or 06.5-09.

Bucking and surging are two different things to me. Surging is a fuel quantity variance for a constant load, and bucking is a fuel delivery issue, where fuel starts and stops quickly.. Surging is "smoother", as there isn't a fuel delivery issue. Which do you think it was? My first thought was you had some fuel flow issues, possibly due to gelling. The one time I gelled it was a buckin bronco. Where is your pressure sender?

Michael, Could you see the surge in your boost gauge?

I have more issues with the torque than I do with 1 tire fire, but unlike a clutch style the rear end doesn't want to walk around on me. Starting and stopping in 2wd on slick surfaces with a torquey diesel and a manual takes 4wd anyhow...

Is it the torque or the design in the 05? I have to grab 4wd at slow speed, but both spin.

Maybe I missed it but did these issues start after the BD Tuner?? Pick a LSD yet? Personally I despise clutch style LSD's and was making an appointment to have mine removed when I bought my 05, until I realized it was a helical gear design. I'll take open any day over clutch packs.

My experience with G80 vs open is that I prefer open, at least it's predictable. The G80's are known to "lock" when you don't want it (ice/off camber snow/etc) and not "lock" when you do need it. The AAM helical gear design has been great and provides excellent lateral traction in winter. Another helical option is the Detroit Tru-Trac. http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=6890&Product=TT_915A568&Brand=Eaton_Posi&ShowAA=True&Year=2006&Model=Ram%203500%201%20Ton&DriveType=Rear%20Diff%20-%204WD&DiffId=259&Source=DiffWizard

Ford never ran the AAM, not once. Ford uses the sterling on the SRWs and Dana 80 on the DRW's. I like the OEM a lot better than the Gov-Lok, and I have experience with both. The OEM will track and drive much better on snow/ice that the G80 will.

Looks like water intrusion to me, so it may not be the fault of the installers. I do most my own maintenance as well, but stuff happens outside of procedural error.