AH64ID

FYI, that location seems good but it really takes your eyes a long ways from the road to monitor. The 3 on top of the dash is a much safer location.

As it has been stated it's a noise reduction device, that's all. There is no gain or loss of performance from removing it.

Even thou the issue was known, and how not to have it occur, I have held off on upgrading my steering components. Now I feel like it wont be a big deal to upgrade when the time comes. So far 101K and still rocking the OE TRE's.

The reason for failure on this style is quite simple actually, for those who don't know here is the cliffs notes. The TRE on the drivers side is not your traditional 360° of movement/rotation TRE, but rather it only move in a line fairly perpendicular to the wheels. The pass side is a standard TRE. When the 08.5+ steering is installed it is very important to keep the TRE's aligned and in the center of their travel. If they are properly aligned there is no binding as steering occurs. When they are misaligned the drivers side TRE gets stress put on the stud in a direction it wasn't designed to move, they then fatigue and fail. The latest fix is a pin/grove setup between the TRE's so that they can only be installed with proper alignment, which should eliminate the failures.

Sounds correct for the failure of the "upgrade" that causes the left side TRE to fail. They where probably installed incorrectly, which is why most of them fail. The latest parts have an alignment pin design to keep this from happening. You should have gotten a new pass side TRE as well.

Fixed.

Or lower. When drive pressure exceeds boost the engine is having to work harder than it needs to to push the exhaust out. You also can overspeed turbo's and increase EGT's for the same boost pressure with a lower drive pressure. High drive pressure can lead to exhaust valve float. Here is a little video of drive to boost on my stock turbo. Boost left, DP right. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j156/ah64id/trucks/Cummins/Drive%20Pressure/th_Video_011209_001.mp4 http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j156/ah64id/trucks/Cummins/Drive%20Pressure/th_Video_011209_002.mp4

Mine is mounted next to my trailer brake controller, as I use it for exhaust brake monitoring as well.

Only if the recall applies, and I doubt there is a dealership that is not aware of the tie-rod recall. This is why we need to see a photo of the entire steering linkage.

Got a photo of the entire setup? You may or may not be effected by the recalled steering linkage. Haven't heard about that recall, but there indeed is a tie-rod recall not a TSB.The recall has had multiple iterations over the last few years. The recall specificllly effects the 08.5+ steering linkage, but that linkage is back-words compatible and used on the older trucks regularly.

Nice install. Did you consider the spring style WG? They open on drive pressure vs boost pressure, and the HE351 needs all the turbine flow it can get especially with a "upgraded" comp wheel. Are you measuring drive pressure at all?

That's a rule I've never heard before, as long as the tree is dead it's fair game on all the USFS ground I have been on. That doesn't count trees in closed areas, obviously.

Looks like a fun trip!! Burgdorf is on our list of places to hit. Not too much smoke either, it's been clearing the last few days down here as well. We spent Thursday and Friday nights in the Deadwood Lookout.

I'd drill it where you want it. The photo doesn't show a weld right in the drill spot, and if you hit the edge of the weld it shouldn't be a big deal assuming a good weld. The weld does look good thou, as there is no exhaust leak. Exhaust components are very difficult to get a good weld on since the soot permeates and doesn't allow for a proper bead.

98-02 use a oil pressure sensor, so the PCM/ECM does see actual pressure. Depending on the year, and/or flash, the gauge on the dash is fake and algorythim driven. The sensor is an actual sensor, but that's about as far as the real reading goes. The Scan Gauge could probably be programmed to read it, but good luck. The 03+ trucks are even more hindered as all they have is a 6 psi switch, not a pressure sensor.

Twins are certainly the best way to go, if the $$ is there. I have to say I am pretty impressed with my single performance at altitude thou. It spools VERY fast, and keeps me cool enough to move 20K GCW up a 4% grade at 6-7K feet on a 85° day at 70 in 6th gear. Steeper grades and 5th gear have yet to show me 1200°, even on 102° days. Twins would let me hit a 6-8% grade at interstate speed, but there just aren't too many I encounter where I can run that speed at altitude. It's all about matched parts. My injectors are matched to my turbo, only possible with UDC, and the turbo is matched to my rpm band. The cam makes a HUGE difference and I am not sure I could do what I do at elevation without a quality cam. But a good single and a good cam are cheaper than twins, and always allow for twins. After having 3 different cams in my 05 I can say with decent certainty that cams work.

I bet that's without a drive pressure gauge.... That's a very small turbine. They can be ran to about 400-450hp for short bursts that are on the high side of efficiency, and about 350-400hp for towing depending on the altitude. You can have the turbine wheel replaced with a larger one and it helps out a bit. Turbo Re-Source can do it.

So I wouldn't be at the torque rating.

Wow, those prices seem really low! The OKHD my dad put in, and the OFE input in where both a bit more than that. Mine didn't even have a flywheel. The OHD gets my vote, it's a great clutch and when the time comes for me to change clutches I will detune about 15hp and go that route.

IMHO the cost of AC is compleatly worth a good nights sleep! In the grand scheme of things it's pretty cheap anyhow.

I saw 99° driving home this afternoon, and we aren't even to the hottest part of the day yet. But inside my house is 76° for now, it will drop to 71° for bed.

Drilled/Slotted rotors are not all they are cracked up to be in towing applications. You lose surface area and thus lower braking, they really only work well in overside rotor applications for racing needs. If you are having to ride your brakes for a long steep grade then you need an exhaust brake. After years reading about brakes for these trucks I have come to the conclusion that nothing beats OEM, so you might look there.

Correct, but when inside they don't run the card until you have finished fueling and it's processed as a regular purchase and not a preauthorized sale like outside.

You have to preauthorize a debit card?